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pcroyle

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About pcroyle

  • Birthday 09/21/1951

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    Male

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  • From
    Boca Raton, FL
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche C2; 2007 Corvette Conv.; 2008 BMW 328i

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  1. pcroyle
    I've installed the Numeric short shifter in my 2002 Carrera, a piece of industrial artwork in its own right and a shame to cover up inside the console. I originally installed a GT3 Cup cable but found the noise transmitted into the cockpit to be a bit much for me, even though I tend to be on the hard-core side of motorsports. So, I then installed a new stock, over-the-counter cable. The noise was gone but so was the incredible feel of the Numeric, its ball-bearings and the Cup cable with its substantially larger diameter cables. So there's no misunderstanding, the feel with the stock cable is way better than with the stock shifter assembly; but having been so spoiled by the feel of the Cup cable, I still wasn't satisfied. So, today I had my favorite independent shop--Boca Tech Auto Center, Boca Raton, Fl (561.395.0087)--a Numeric dealer--install the Numeric-modified Cup cable with adjustable, ball-bearing assisted rod-ends. The noise is about 40-50% suppressed, the sublime feel of the shifter has been restored and I'm pleased! The shift lever feels as though it bolted to a solid piece of metal, no slop, no vagueness. Very pure . . . . Mike at Boca Tech is the master of fine adjustments and he hit the nail squarely on the head with the adjustments he did today installing the Numeric- modified shift cable to my Numeric short shifter that I've had in the car for the past 7 months. Phil Croyle Boca Raton, FL
  2. pcroyle
    The advantage to the Cup cable is the additional stiffness of each cable--about 1/3rd larger in diameter than stock. It's only available through dealers/shops/race shops aligned with Porsche Motorsports. My car has a shift feel now that seems as though the transmission is right below and connected to the lever in the cockpit. But I"m also using the Numeric Racing short shifter inside the car. It's plug and play and amazing. Check it out. Disadvantages to the Cup cables--because the ends are metal and not buffered through plastic, at each end, it's transmitting alot of noise into the cockpit--enough that I'm likely to change out the Cup cable for a modified cable that Numeric sells that has some buffering materials at each end. The noise is noticible, I don't think I can get used to it (and I'm pretty hard-core) and I haven't even suggested that my wife and I take it for a drive since I got the whole car home, it's that noticible! I'll give it 30 days more . . . .
  3. pcroyle
    Well, had a blast at Sebring 1.19.13---while it lasted. Around 3:30 p.m., my #6 piston let go at the wrist pin. Flat tow, AAA assisted, back to Boca Raton and am almost done with the installation of a donor engine from a totaled 2002 (bent tub; otherwise damage unremarkable). Engine is bone dry/never been opened up/factory work still obvious. Swap and all related work being sourced and performed by Mike Alves and Elli Weiss, Boca Tech Auto Center, Boca Raton, FL. Best little independent shop in town for all of you readers within reach of Boca Raton. Since we had the opportunity, an LN Engineering IMS bearing installed, 160 degree thermostat, LN rear main seal, new plugs, fresh radiator expansion tank and injectors balanced and blueprinted by Marren Injectors in Connecticutt. Porsche fluids for tranny and radiator; Joe Gibbs DT40 engine oil that will go out for analysis at LN at 6 months/5,000 miles. LN magnetic drain plug as well. We have a GT3 Cup shifter cable installed and are waiting on either used or new rod ends for the interior end of the cables in order to get the car drivable again. Can't wait to try out the Numeric Racing short shifter, also installed. And that, as they say, is that . . . .
  4. pcroyle
    No joy . . . . Same flashing CEL at 6800 rpm on a single run up to that level last night that doused itself in the next quarter mile or so of more "normal"driving. Guess I'll live with it--for now. Tracking the car at Sebring 1.19.13.
  5. pcroyle
    I'm installing a new MAF tomorrow. Stand by . . . . .
  6. pcroyle
    After a single bottle of Techron, I still have the same codes as reported above that trip a solid CEL at 6600 RPM consistently. I doubt another bottle of Techron will make any difference so I will not use another at this point. With the plugs, coils and O2 pre-cat sensors all changed out, I've improved my situation from a CEL at 5800 RPM to now a solid dash light at 6600 RPM. I'm only 500 RPM short of fuel cutoff; so, my question for all of you simply is this: If I ignore these consistent 0300/0301/0304 Durametric codes, DON'T rush home to clear them and otherwise go about my business, do these codes set off any response in the DME that reduces performance in any way while the CEL is lit or that cause a condition that will eventually harm the engine/peripherals if left uncleared or solved? Your input most welcome and thanks!
  7. pcroyle
    Got my modified mufflers back from FD Motorsports at noon today and just got back from my first drive with them on. Sweet!! Just what I was looking for--a bit throatier at startup, virtually as stock at partial throttle cruise at rpms under 3000, and a nice nasty snarl when I get on it! Workmanship looks top notch with a nice mandrel bend in the bypass pipe and quality welding. Thanks, Darin and FD! A whole lot of value for the dollars and well worth the 3 week downtime.
  8. pcroyle
    Just replaced my O2 sensors while my mufflers were out at FD Motorsports being "hacked." Put the car back together this afternoon. Mission largely accomplished! My misfire/CEL now comes on at just under 7000 rather than just under 6000 and of course the car sounds sweet with the FD muffler mod. So, on to the next step--a can or two of Techron. But it looks like the car is now ready to hit a racetrack here in Florida without further issues if I can exercise some discipline with the rpms.
  9. pcroyle
    I just replaced what obviously are the original pre-cat sensors. Bank 2-the one the Durametric identified as "lazy"--was black with carbon; Bank 1's was nice and dull uniform grey. Leads were frayed through the insulation on each but wires otherwise looked good. Now good to go. I hope that balances out the harmonics between the banks and eliminates my general and cylinder 1 and 4 misfire codes so that I can really enjoy this thing up high in the rev range where it belongs . . .. If not, a can or two of Techron is next step.
  10. pcroyle
    I've worked with other Bentley manuals and like those, this one is a fine place to start and get an overview of any given project; but, it won't ever take the place of a website like this, frankly.
  11. pcroyle
    The airbox is aftermarket but uses the paper stock filter element. I cleaned the MAF really well with mass airflow sensor cleaner as directed and have cleaned up the throttle body. I've received mixed messages about running Techron through it and have no oil changes planned to rid the crankcase of any that may leak past the rings; so, I may hold off on that a bit longer. I'm just trying to get the things related to the sparkplugs firing "symmetrical" with the same parts, same age, etc. After I've hung my FD Motorsports-modified mufflers this weekend, I'll do some live readings with the Durametric and report if I've been successful in any regard! Thanks for your advise.
  12. pcroyle
    The coil packs and plugs are all new, matched and installed by a pro. Had the same exact codes prior and after that. I have and use a Durametric. I seem to have a "lazy" O2 sensor on the passenger side bank 2 and will replace it with a Bosch 16433 part number direct fitment new one later this week. I haven't checked closely but if the O2 sensor installed are not Bosch or are not matched, I'll replace both pre-cat and get that done while I'm at it. I'll have the car back on the ground this weekend and will go out and take some live Durametric readings and run it up to redline under load--if I can get that far--with out a CEL!! I have NOT used Techron yet but that's also on my short list--10 year old car, 34000 miles--and a bit cheaper than sending the injectors off to have them balanced and blueprinted, although that's what I'd also like to do . . . ..
  13. pcroyle
    My 2002 Carrera 2 develops a consistent CEL with 0300/0301/0304 misfire/misfire codes at just under 6,000 rpm. Makes track days very irritating. I've replaced all of the plugs and coil packs, car idles smoothly and otherwise accelerates up to just under 6000 without drama/variocam kicking in at 3000. But the misfire codes with CEL persists. I've cleaned the MAF sensor and car idles smoothly, operating normally up to 6000. I do feel that the engine just isn't as "bright" as it should be nor as smooth through the middle rpm range on its way to the CEL at 6000 and beyond. I suspect a collapsed lifter or a fuel injector problem. My local independent shop wants to do a compression test, check the engine management computer for the most recent software and " . . . go from there." My issue is, I'm afraid to follow him down the rabbit hole fearing that there is no "there","there" a few thousand dollars later. What should be my order of constructive events in getting to the bottom of this aggravating issue? And many thanks!
  14. pcroyle
    I just received mine today! Can't wait to get into it.
  15. pcroyle
    Good morning. New guy here. Wanting a bit more aggressive exhaust note and after reading this thread, I spend my birthday afternoon yesterday putting my 2002 Carrera 2 up on my Race Ramps, removing the rear bumper cover, heat shields, and mufflers, cleaning the mufflers up and back from the shipping company in just 3 hours, including the usual first-time struggle to find the right size sockets, Torx, etc. Mufflers are on their way to CA and should arrive in a week I'm told. $108 to ship 40 lbs across the country. I'll spend the down time with the car on the ramps and do some exploring. Seems to me that the FD Motorsports cost with shipping both ways and experience in doing the "hack" with the right size tubing and location on the in and out-flow pipes should be the most bang for the investment. I'd love to reduce the rear weight with another type of system but that's being pretty anal about weight and its location. Install should be a bit quicker I'd think and by removing and shipping my own mufflers, I'm not at the mercy of having to wait for FD to receive cores from other customers before handling my order. My thoughts this morning . . . . Good to get some dirt under my fingernails yesterday; and, sure beats being in the office on a nice Friday afternoon.
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