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deilenberger

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deilenberger last won the day on January 28 2023

deilenberger had the most liked content!

About deilenberger

  • Birthday June 24

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    Male

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  • From
    Sping Lake NJ USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '06 Cayenne/S Titanium
    '02 BMW M3 convertible
    '01 BMW M-Coupe
    '03 BMW 525i-touring (wagon)
    '07 BMW R1200R - 2 wheels, the real BMW
  • Former cars
    Various BMWs, Jags, etc.

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Community Answers

  1. deilenberger
    Just as a followup. It's gotten worse. It loses vacuum overnight now. I've added a second check-valve in series with the first - no improvement. I replaced the grommet that the vacuum pipe enters the vacuum booster through, no improvement. Looks like I'm looking at replacing the booster itself. Used there are a bunch of these on ebay really cheap, meaning they don't normally go bad. I'm undecided against used or new. Used - maybe $125. New - $500. Labor the same on both of them.
  2. deilenberger
    There were some kits sold back when this was endemic that were made up by a vendor, who didn't use all Porsche parts - and that coupling was known to leak. I forget what company it was... but that's a known leak spot with the aftermarket kit. I believe it will require R&R of the upper pipes to fix. I vaguely seem to recall some people unbolting and lifting the cover for the thermostat housing (where the 3 pipes go into the front of the engine) up to replace that coupling, that avoids having to pull the 3 pipe assembly out of the housing cover and replacing those O rings sealing it in. Since you have to replace at least the clamps on the rear rubber pipes to the aluminum, your situation may be different.
  3. deilenberger started following A/C problem after removing and installing front bumper , 2011 CTT 958 - loss of power-brake vacuum when sitting , 2011 CTT - adaptive power steering not adapting.. and 7 others
  4. deilenberger
    A fairly recent problem (amongst other problems) I'm experiencing with my '11 CTT. The vacuum that provides the power-brake boost disappears if the car is left sitting for 24-48 hours. This makes it difficult to depress the brake pedal far enough to engage the start-enable switch, so starting becomes an issue. I had a shop look at it - and they had an "educated guess" diagnosis - that there is a check valve in one of the hoses between the camshaft-driven vacuum pump, and the brake booster. their thought is the check valve is leaking. It appears the check valve is part of the hose, so the entire hose (which runs through the cowl area) has to be replaced. In looking at parts diagrams - there are apparently 2 hoses - hooked up in series, and it isn't clear which one has a check valve. There are variations on the hoses - a "plain" one, and one with a fitting for a vacuum sensor of some sorts. I don't know which one I have. The shop did a smoke test of the line and found nothing amiss, but the smoke test wouldn't show a leaking check valve. The other possibility is the actual booster is failing, or the simple (and cheap) grommet the hose goes through into the booster is going bad. Anyone had this issue? Is so - the fix was?
  5. deilenberger
    SO - you try to do something nice, like have my '11 CTT with 106,000 miles on it detailed. Guy did a great job EXCEPT he sprayed down the engine compartment with a pressure washer. I didn't spot that until he was done doing it. When I picked it up the steering felt funny - like there was no assist. I guess there was some since I suspect it's about undriveable without the assist. No error messages on the dash, but scanning it with my Foxwell NT530 turned up an error code along the lines of "Failsafe Steering Engaged".. I cleared that code and the steering returned to normal, very light and easy at slow speeds, becoming stiffer as speed increased. So I figured it was just a one time thing. The car was OK for several days, but in nice weather it often sits for a week or more in the driveway (I'm using the Boxster with the top down). Last night - bad weather so the Boxster stayed in the garage and the Cayenne was called into duty.. and again - the assist wasn't what I expected it to be. I haven't hooked up the diagnostics box yet, maybe get to that this afternoon. I'm thinking it's probably a soaked connector somewhere that's dropping electrical power or a signal that regulates the steering rack assist. Anyone else had this issue? Any pointers would be a nice thing. Thanks!
  6. deilenberger
    Had exactly the same symptoms on my '11 CTT - except cylinder 1 didn't throw an error code for some reason. 2, 3 and 4 did. Also some O2 sensor codes on bank-1. Also intermittent rough idle, which eventually became all-the-time rough idle. Fix was a new valve "lift" solenoid. IMPORTANT - this IS different from the valve timing solenoid (located under the valve cover at the front of the head) - this one is recessed into the rear of the head. It is reachable by R&R of the vacuum pump (turbo) - or I've heard from underneath. About 3 hours labor, valve from Porsche is around $200, but if you're willing to risk it - there is aftermarket for around $60. Total cost for the job from a very well regarded independent shop - around $600.
  7. deilenberger
    You might try googling for it. Porsche themselves used to have a spot on their website with owner's manuals for download. They were free and I think a 2011 might be new enough to be there.
  8. deilenberger
    The DME is likely needed to run the starter motor. I wouldn't be concerned about power if the coils are disconnected. Most electronic ignition systems use a constant + feed to the coil, switching the ground to complete the circuit. That means there is no electronic pulse going to the coil connectors when the coil is fired, so disconnecting them should be quite safe. You can expect to have a bunch of stored error codes when you're done, but they should clear just fine if you have even a basic OBD-II tool. BTW - you posted this in the convertible top troubleshooting forum, which might account for the lack of replies (besides the generally ghost-town status of this forum.)
  9. deilenberger
    Did you use a Porsche water pump? It sounds like a loose impeller or otherwise failed water pump. Able to circulate enough coolant when idling, but not enough when under load. Thermostats generally (not aways but usually) fail open. And how are you reading the coolant temperature? Hopefully not by the heavily buffered coolant temperature gauge - that's about as useful as an overheat-idiot light. If it reads hot something is really wrong.
  10. deilenberger
    There are some parts available now for the PDK transmissions and there are a few vendors working on them (primarily for race cars). A good source of info is a longish thread on rebuilding them found at Rennlist: Guide to Repairing a PDK Transmission - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 997 Forum - Guide to Repairing a PDK Transmission - Introduction: This post documents what I've learned regarding PDK internals, parts prone to failure, access to those parts, where to get replacements, and generally how to fix a failed PDK yourself. After ten years in service...
  11. deilenberger
    Yes. You may have to go into the PCM to turn it on - but I doubt it - if there is something there now that works, what you plug into that jack should also work.
  12. deilenberger
    Doesn't need coding. Just gotta plug it in.
  13. deilenberger
    Lucas - what kind of oil are you using?
  14. deilenberger
    It appears the seal is held in place by a T shaped section that fits into a groove in the top frame. Can the seal be worked back in place? I'm sure replacements can be purchased.. it appears that your seals have experienced some significant wear.
  15. deilenberger
    You mentioned the car was running and driving before you started working on it.. and that begs a few questions: How long have you owned it? How many miles? Has it always had an engine warning light on since you've owned it? How do you know the actuators were on the wrong banks? Do the actuators have different PN's? Can you point me to an on-line diagram that shows the "actuators" - since none of the on-line parts diagrams seem to refer to anything like that.
  16. deilenberger
    Does the temperature sensor and side marker light use similar connectors? (Won't be the first time with Porsche..)
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