Clutch pedal issue, need help

[Rolando]

My clutch pedal was not traveling all the way down, consequently the rocking switch on the back of the pedal did not engage and the car would not start. :cursing:

I disconnected the wires from the switch, put them together and the car starts every single time :clapping:

After pumping the pedal hard a few times it made a metalic noice, traveled all the way down and seems to work fine (for now). My question: is there anything that I could change/fix inside the barrel/piston that is pushed by the clutch pedal? I do not want this problem to repeat itself <_<

Rolando

98 boxster manual

Edited June 3, 2006 by Rolando

[Loren]

Have a look at the following TSBs:

2/03 3001 Clutch Pedal Sticks (dated 10-24-03)

1/99 3005 Boost Spring for Clutch Pedal (dated 5-28-99)

1/00 3005 Clutch Pedal Noise (dated 9-8-00)

[Rolando]

:soapbox:

Have a look at the following TSBs:

2/03 3001 Clutch Pedal Sticks (dated 10-24-03)

1/99 3005 Boost Spring for Clutch Pedal (dated 5-28-99)

1/00 3005 Clutch Pedal Noise (dated 9-8-00)

Thank you Loren.

I removed the booster spring, cleaned and greased all parts.

Actually everything looked ok with the exception of the master cylinder push rod. A shoulder developed in the rod due to friction (see picture) -not sure if that was the cause of the piston not traveling all the way and the unstack metalic noice I heard. :unsure:

Doc1.doc

As a weekend band-aid I filed the edges off with a dremmel -but if the problem was inside de cylinder most likely I'll have to deal with it again. The master cylinder is $56.75 at Pelican; If anybody has replaced it I would appreciate feedback -I'm mainly concerned with the bleeding process. :help:

Rolando

My problem started on Thursday after work when I was trying to start the car to come home. I checked a few things and desided lo leave it for somebody with more knowledge so I towed the car to a mecanic. The guy charged me $180 to FIX the problem buy twisting the clutch switch arm so it would engage earlier. The small detail is that I could barely shift gears :soapbox:

The independent Porsche guy could not even see the car for a week (too busy) and the dealer would probably replace the clutch pedal, the ignition switch (new metal one), the master cylinder and perhaps the whole clutch :D .... I know ... you get what you pay for.

Edited June 4, 2006 by Rolando

[Rolando]

:soapbox:

Have a look at the following TSBs:

2/03 3001 Clutch Pedal Sticks (dated 10-24-03)

1/99 3005 Boost Spring for Clutch Pedal (dated 5-28-99)

1/00 3005 Clutch Pedal Noise (dated 9-8-00)

Thank you Loren.

I removed the booster spring, cleaned and greased all parts.

Actually everything looked ok with the exception of the master cylinder push rod. A shoulder developed in the rod due to friction (see picture) -not sure if that was the cause of the piston not traveling all the way and the unstack metalic noice I heard. :unsure:

Doc1.doc

As a weekend band-aid I filed the edges off with a dremmel -but if the problem was inside de cylinder most likely I'll have to deal with it again. The master cylinder is $56.75 at Pelican; If anybody has replaced it I would appreciate feedback -I'm mainly concerned with the bleeding process. :help:

Rolando

My problem started on Thursday after work when I was trying to start the car to come home. I checked a few things and desided lo leave it for somebody with more knowledge so I towed the car to a mecanic. The guy charged me $180 to FIX the problem buy twisting the clutch switch arm so it would engage earlier. The small detail is that I could barely shift gears :soapbox:

The independent Porsche guy could not even see the car for a week (too busy) and the dealer would probably replace the clutch pedal, the ignition switch (new metal one), the master cylinder and perhaps the whole clutch :D .... I know ... you get what you pay for.

UPDATE:

Clutch pedal stayed-in (so much for band-aid fix). Would this validate the clutch master cylinder theory?

Help would be much appreciated. :help:

[Rolando]

Wrong again, good thing I bought both the master and the slave cylinders. The slave is busted which by the way is another Audi part.

It seems that I am destined to learn the hard way and keep answering my own questions (or having to find them through yahoo search). This is pathetic. ... :blush:

No intention to offend ...but I doubt nobody has done this and could have helped .... If a radio question gets 52 answers either I don't ask my questions correctly or I must be in the wrong forum.

Edited June 7, 2006 by Rolando

[Rolando]

An update that may help some members of the forum (hopefully).

Could not fix problem, the clutch did not respond after my attempt to fix the issues with the pedal and slave cylinder. Dealer diagnosis was "need new clutch" $2500.

Will pick up car tomorow and put it for sale asap.

Edited June 25, 2006 by Rolando

[willcapp]

An update that may help some members of the forum (hopefully).

Could not fix problem, the clutch did not respond after my attempt to fix the issues with the pedal and slave cylinder. Dealer diagnosis was "need new clutch" $2500.

Will pick up car tomorow and put it for sale asap.

Do you know why the clutch did not fully extend the distance? and why a "clutch replacement" was required. I thought there were 2 parts....the pedal with the hydrolic components - master/slave and the transmission end with the clutch plate and fork.

Anyway, I have the same issue with the clutch not fully extending.

[Chris_in_NH]

Will pick up car tomorow and put it for sale asap.

you're going to sell the car because it needs a clutch?

first of all, you could have a new clutch installed at an independent for about half of the dealer's price. the clutch itself costs about $300. and that's assuming that you actually NEED a clutch.

take it over to someone that's not out to lighten your wallet needlessly.