Codes + Problems = Desperate for answers!

[badbeef]

Hi all... Here's a list of encountered problems and if you could be kind enough to give me your feedback/solutions before I go to the dealer...

Car: 1999 C2 Cab Tip, 76K miles

CODES - CEL light on:

Code 80: secondary air injection system cylinders 1/3

Code 208: secondary air injection system cylinders 4/6

Code PO302/PO303: Misfires

What does this mean? What are the remedies? Any risk of more damage while still driving it? These codes don't tell me much and would like to know the source!

Also, some other problem:

1- Hesitation on acceleration at around 2 000 rpm (no problems at cruising speed), idle goes back and fourth between 2 and 2.5, no 'pick-up' when hit the gas... :cursing:

Are these all related? (codes = problem). Heard stories about the MAF, could that be it?

What do you suggest??? Need more details for diagnosis?

Your help would be greatly appreciated as I'm a new P-Car owner, and let's say it doesn't start off well...!

Thanks!

[Loren]

P0410 (Porsche fault code 80) and P1411 (Porsche fault code 208) indicate your second air pump is not likely working.

You should check:

- Wiring harness or fuse

- Relay

- Air supply lines restricted.

- DME control module

- Air supply lines

- Secondary air injection pump

- Electric change-over valve

- Air change-over valve

P0302 and P0303 are misfires on cylinders 2 and 3 - if these are only when the engine is cold then it could be related to the secondary air pump problem. The pump does not run after the engine reaches operating temperature.

I would fix the secondary air pump problem - clear the codes and then see what you get. Right now there are too many variables.

Where are you located? US? or ?

[badbeef]

Thank you Loren for your reply, I was hoping you would! Been watching your site for quite a while before making the BIG jump!!!

I'm located in Montreal, Canada, just bought and drove the car yesterday from NJ!

Another issue is the coolant temperature...It was going high, deeply high and coming back to normal + light blinking (low indicator?). The previous owner actually changed the coolant tank recently, so I poured more coolant and was better but not perfect. The problem reoccured this morning but much less, so i'm "purging" the system from possible air and I'll see what it comes down to.

Secondary air pump: how? how much $$$? Can I continue on driving without inflicting more damage? The codes encountered and the problems are directly linked?

[Loren]

Read through the posts here about coolant tanks and caps. If your coolant tank cap ends in 00 (instead of 01) then it needs to be replaced. Is the coolant level going down? Do you see any leaks under the car on hoses etc. ?

Before you replace the air pump check the simple stuff - can you hear it run when you start the car? (it sounds a little like a vacuum cleaner to me), check the fuse, check the relay relay, and make it is still plugged in. US MSRP for the air pump is $1200.81.

You can drive the car if the CEL is solid. If the CEl is flashing then you are doing damage to the TWC (three way catalytic convertors) and the car should not be driven.

[badbeef]

I'll do so, check the little details and come back with feedback.

So the 'studdering' of the rpm should be resolved by fixing the secondary air pump? I'm trying to figure what's the link between the air pump and the hesitations?!?! (I'm far from being a mechanic!)

The coolant cap was changed along with the tank, i'll check tonight for the #. Yesterday night, after a 350 mile trip, the level in the tank was low, actually I could not see a trace of the coolant so I opened the cap to release the pressure (man it was boiling!), finally had to wait a couple of hours and added the coolant. Same operation today at lunch, much less pressure and the level came up but is still a little under "min" since I can see the coolant in the tank (far behind), which I couldn't yesterday... I'll open up the valve on top of the tank and drive back home, and I'll repeat the same operation tonight. I will probably be able to fill it up properly. No leaks were noted.

[badbeef]

Good morning!

Now I'm confused regarding the coolant issue! I do have the 01 cap but the tank comes empty after each drive and I don't see any leak underneath the car (no spots, nothing). So far, I've added 8 liters (2 gallons) of coolant and still missing and heating up?!?!?!?! :unsure:

Advice is welcome, before I give up and send it to a mechanic....

[viper501]

I'd be curious about the connections at the tank and whether they are leaking under pressure while the coolant is hot, allowing the coolant to evaporate before it hits the ground. Since that is where the car has most recently been worked on, I think that would be the first place to check. Good luck.

[Alan C.]

By any chance have you looked at your oil. Probably not an issue but it might be worth checking for any signs of contamination.

Also might want to prressure test the system to see if it is holding pressure.

If the coolant is leaking while the car is hot you may not see anything.

[badbeef]

I'll check the oil as soon as I get home tonight, found a lot of horror stories in different forums... let's hope it's not as bad as I've read!

Here's an update on the situation, maybe this could help pinpointing in a more precise direction...:

Took out the pressure last night (long psssiiissshhhhhh + boiling sound when removing the cap), filled with coolant (a full 4 liter), then started the car and left it sitting at idle for 10 minutes. Released the pressure again (small psssiiiissshhhh), coolant level lowered a bit in the tank.

This morning, took the cap off and no coolant in the tank?!?!?! It was raining so I wasn't able to see if it leaked somewhere... Could it be that there's air in the system? Need for a purge? The coolant must go somewhere?!?! Cracked head or broken liner are plausible theories which could explain the codes and the hesitation around 2 000 rpm.

I'm completely mesmerized, this is my last shot before bringing it in tonight... and hopefully this won't cost me a new engine! :cursing:

P.S.: Tried driving with the valve open, it was much worse, smoke was coming out bad and temperature stayed top high, so I stopped everything...

Your feedback and thoughts are greatly appreciated!

[munro86]

I'll check the oil as soon as I get home tonight, found a lot of horror stories in different forums... let's hope it's not as bad as I've read!

Here's an update on the situation, maybe this could help pinpointing in a more precise direction...:

Took out the pressure last night (long psssiiissshhhhhh + boiling sound when removing the cap), filled with coolant (a full 4 liter), then started the car and left it sitting at idle for 10 minutes. Released the pressure again (small psssiiiissshhhh), coolant level lowered a bit in the tank.

This morning, took the cap off and no coolant in the tank?!?!?! It was raining so I wasn't able to see if it leaked somewhere... Could it be that there's air in the system? Need for a purge? The coolant must go somewhere?!?! Cracked head or broken liner are plausible theories which could explain the codes and the hesitation around 2 000 rpm.

I'm completely mesmerized, this is my last shot before bringing it in tonight... and hopefully this won't cost me a new engine! :cursing:

P.S.: Tried driving with the valve open, it was much worse, smoke was coming out bad and temperature stayed top high, so I stopped everything...

Your feedback and thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Hi,

To me this looks unnervingly like oil contamination from what you are saying. I hope i'm wrong, but the smoking and complete disappearance of 4 litres of coolant would give me cause for concern. You simply couldn't lose that volume via a hose or tank leak without seeing something, so this logically leads one to think the coolant is going into the oil somehow. I've been told by others that tell tale sings of contamination are indications of a 'milkiness' in the oil, so have look on the dipstick and also the underside of the cap at the end of the oil filler tube. I recall someone saying that the presence of smoke emanating from the exhaust can indicate a blown head gasket, i.e. entry point of coolant into the oil. My experience was when the coolant tank was removed/drained to fix some wires a rat had chewed just beside the coolant tank. The mechanic refilled it, but he didn't realise you had to 'burp' the system. Consequently the first time I drove it it boiled. After consulting this great resource I refilled, drove with the purge valve open, and it was fixed. Again I stress I hope it is the tank , I'd hate to think of the alternative.

All the best,

Jason

[Nick_USA]

Read through the posts here about coolant tanks and caps. If your coolant tank cap ends in 00 (instead of 01) then it needs to be replaced. Is the coolant level going down? Do you see any leaks under the car on hoses etc. ?

Before you replace the air pump check the simple stuff - can you hear it run when you start the car? (it sounds a little like a vacuum cleaner to me), check the fuse, check the relay relay, and make it is still plugged in. US MSRP for the air pump is $1200.81.

You can drive the car if the CEL is solid. If the CEl is flashing then you are doing damage to the TWC (three way catalytic convertors) and the car should not be driven.

Was there a TSB for the cap replacement?

[Loren]

Was there a TSB for the cap replacement?

There isn't one to my knowledge. But every service tech I know - knows to replace any 00 part number cap.

[badbeef]

UPDATE:

Well... Last night, I saw the 'milkyway' in the oil tube and cap :censored: The car will take the ambulance early next week to go to the emergency, let's hope it won't need a heart transplant and that only a bypass surgery will be required!

I'm just confused on the reasons... I know that first generations of 996 had their share of problems, I'll try to get more data from my mechanic to share, if it can help!

I'll keep you guys posted, thanks to everybody for everything!