Radio

[atmorris]

Thanks for all the advice and tips. Now how and were do the rear speakers mount?

If you are referring to the kits we have been describing here...they mount inside the rear storage unit located on top of the engine cover and right behind the driver/passenger's head. This has a small storage compartment on each side behind the headrest. These are removed and replaced with the speaker mounts and the factory speaker baffles. Easy mod really. Takes 2 or 3 evenings of work. If your car does not already have the rear storage compartment, you need to get one of those first. I have seen them on EBay occasionally for around $150

[towney]

Thanks for all the advice and tips. Now how and were do the rear speakers mount?

If you are referring to the kits we have been describing here...they mount inside the rear storage unit located on top of the engine cover and right behind the driver/passenger's head. This has a small storage compartment on each side behind the headrest. These are removed and replaced with the speaker mounts and the factory speaker baffles. Easy mod really. Takes 2 or 3 evenings of work. If your car does not already have the rear storage compartment, you need to get one of those first. I have seen them on EBay occasionally for around $150

I got the PNP kit, what are the factory speaker baffles you mention. The PNP's just mounted directly into the storage unit with nothing be hind them.

[Charlestonboxster]

Andy,

Thank you for keeping us closely posted on door reconaissance, and dash redo with MB's.

Door: I am ready to order door speakers, want to install without mod or as little as possible, was considering Boston Acoustic S series S65rc ($119), shallow mount 6.5's.

Dash: I have Boston Acoustic s45's ($79) and am ready to modify bracket as you did, but will test depth first....results tbd...!

I like the Boston Acoustic sound over others, a tad warmer.

For the interest of the board, rest of mods I am in the process of doing:

1. Add Rear Storage bin (bought used LA porchedismantlers $250, my 98 has Vinyl enclosure)

2. Add Harvey Peck PNP mounting kit and wiring (He gives great service and advice!) and add my own choice of 3.5's, probably Bostons.

3. Install 6x40 (bought on ebay for $100)

4. Add Kenwood Sub (bought online for $160), drops nicely behind passenger seat, will turn down when I have a passenger, to reduce the vibrating seat factor.

Seriously considering:

Alpine HU with XM and iPOD completely integrated ($350 + XM + iPod). Tough to gove up the stock look as a purist, but integrated Xm and ipod are tough to pass up.

Tony

[atmorris]

OK...only have the pass side off at the moment, but speaker wires for that side are green and green with a brown stripe.

Thanks Andy, I'll check the amp and see if it matches, maybe I can figure out the drivers side, unless you get to it and post the colors.

Speakers should be here today. I have the oak mount plates made, and fitted, that will replace that stupid plastic "ported enclosure". I expect to have the passenger side closed back up by the end of tonight. I should be opening the driver's side up on Friday. I'll post a message once I'm in there.

[atmorris]

Andy,

Thank you for keeping us closely posted on door reconaissance, and dash redo with MB's.

Door: I am ready to order door speakers, want to install without mod or as little as possible, was considering Boston Acoustic S series S65rc ($119), shallow mount 6.5's.

Dash: I have Boston Acoustic s45's ($79) and am ready to modify bracket as you did, but will test depth first....results tbd...!

I like the Boston Acoustic sound over others, a tad warmer.

For the interest of the board, rest of mods I am in the process of doing:

1. Add Rear Storage bin (bought used LA porchedismantlers $250, my 98 has Vinyl enclosure)

2. Add Harvey Peck PNP mounting kit and wiring (He gives great service and advice!) and add my own choice of 3.5's, probably Bostons.

3. Install 6x40 (bought on ebay for $100)

4. Add Kenwood Sub (bought online for $160), drops nicely behind passenger seat, will turn down when I have a passenger, to reduce the vibrating seat factor.

Seriously considering:

Alpine HU with XM and iPOD completely integrated ($350 + XM + iPod). Tough to gove up the stock look as a purist, but integrated Xm and ipod are tough to pass up.

Tony

Tony,

FWIW - I used 3/4 oak plywood from Home Depot to make the mount plate for the 6 1/2. This places the speaker front plane at the same point that the stock mount did. Looks to me like there is about 3" of clearence depth with this setup. Stock speaker was 2 3/4" deep. I don't see how anything more than a 5 1/4" could be worked into the stock enclosure, without affecting the sound. The board mount replacement for the stock "tuned port" enclosure isn't hard, just takes time. This page has pics that will give you an idea about the door panel construction: http://www.carltonbale.com/boxster/audio/index.html

Good instructions on door panel removal are available here: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/ ...and this onehttp://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/ .

I would listen to the speakers that come with Harvey's kit before you decide buy any others. My bet is you won't need to. I looked at a LOT of 3 1/2" speakers, and none (that didn't require Donald Trump to finance) had significantly better specs than the ones he uses.

I would be really interested in some pics and details of the way you set up the Kenwood sub. I am considering using a Kenwood KSC-SW1.

Andy

Edited May 18, 2006 by Andy_M

[Doke]

I just installed the M490 kit in my car. I had the rear speakers already installed but I couldn't hear them without fading the head unit. The kit was easy to install and makes a great difference in the sound stage. I was considering changing everything, but now I might wait. The Ipod hack might be the only thing I do.

One question. Is there a adapter for using a Alpine head unit with the factory amps or do I have to use an interface?

Thanks

[atmorris]

Thanks for all the advice and tips. Now how and were do the rear speakers mount?

If you are referring to the kits we have been describing here...they mount inside the rear storage unit located on top of the engine cover and right behind the driver/passenger's head. This has a small storage compartment on each side behind the headrest. These are removed and replaced with the speaker mounts and the factory speaker baffles. Easy mod really. Takes 2 or 3 evenings of work. If your car does not already have the rear storage compartment, you need to get one of those first. I have seen them on EBay occasionally for around $150

I got the PNP kit, what are the factory speaker baffles you mention. The PNP's just mounted directly into the storage unit with nothing be hind them.

I misspoke, I was referring to the speaker grates that are placed onto the opening in front of the speakers. Sorry...

I just installed the M490 kit in my car. I had the rear speakers already installed but I couldn't hear them without fading the head unit. The kit was easy to install and makes a great difference in the sound stage. I was considering changing everything, but now I might wait. The Ipod hack might be the only thing I do.

One question. Is there a adapter for using a Alpine head unit with the factory amps or do I have to use an interface?

Thanks

Yep on the PNP kit.....and trust me, a change in the dash speakers to a set of MB Quart DKD110's or other quality 4" coaxials will do that much AGAIN to improve the sound. Just make sure whatever speakers you select are shallow mount designs like the DKD110's, and use vfxfox's mounting rings, and it is an EASY mod.

Don't know about the adapter for the Alpine with the factory amps, but I would be interested in knowing if such a thing exists. I'd like to stick a Nakamichi head unit in mine if I could interface to the amp.

[Doke]

I've got the adapter rings and baffles but I'm not sure what to replace the factory speakers with. Maybe JL Audio?

[CA_Boxster]

I added the PNP rear speaker kit and a small 30w 2 channel amp which fit under the passenger seat. Changed out the front dash to MB Quart 4" and 3/4" components, left the door speakers stock, going to put bass blockers on them since I added the small kenwood powered sub which fit behind the passenger seat with only sacrificing about 2" of legroom.

Can you post a picture of how well that sub fits behind the seat?

[Charlestonboxster]

Andy,

>Stock speaker was 2 3/4" deep. I don't see how anything more than a 5 1/4" could be worked into the stock enclosure, without affecting the sound.<

Andy,

So can I pop a 5 1/4" (standard coax) that has <2 3/4 mounting depth in the existing enclosure without mods? Is the "sub tuned port" sometype of closed enclosure that should be opened up or modified somehow so it does not affect the performance of the installed replacement speaker?

Thanks,

T

[CA_Boxster]

Door: I am ready to order door speakers, want to install without mod or as little as possible, was considering Boston Acoustic S series S65rc ($119), shallow mount 6.5's.

Don't use those speakers in the door. I originally put the S55 in my doors and itwas a stupid mistake. Since the doors only get low frequencies you have to put a dedicated mid-bass speaker in there. The Bostons are 2-way speakers and gave me a constant buzzing sound because they couldn't handle getting just low frequency at any kind of volume. I ended up putting some older MB Quart 6.5" in and they're great. Mine were a little deep so a new box had to be built, but I know the shop does install 6.5" MB Quart in the standard boxes. I expect that the Discus series listed in an earlier post are the ones. I know the new MB Quart are advertised as being a shallower mount.

Edited May 19, 2006 by CA_Boxster

[toddhata]

I added the PNP rear speaker kit and a small 30w 2 channel amp which fit under the passenger seat. Changed out the front dash to MB Quart 4" and 3/4" components, left the door speakers stock, going to put bass blockers on them since I added the small kenwood powered sub which fit behind the passenger seat with only sacrificing about 2" of legroom.

Can you post a picture of how well that sub fits behind the seat?

Has anyone had any issues with upgraded components turning off and on randomly? My MB Quarts in the dash keep cutting out, I thought it was the crossovers so I used other ones and it worked for a week, but yesterday and today they started cutting out randomly again. I suspect the factory amp may be overheating or can't handle the better speakers, but the amp isn't hot. I've checked all connections, can't figure this out. Just about ready to get a new 4 channel amp for the dash and rears, and an Alpine head unit for my ipod. Any thoughts?

[CA_Boxster]

Interesting approach on the sub. You could probably even make some king of bracket to lift it up 6" and fit it behind the middle of the seat and still have it mounted to the board on the floor. I might look into that for myself.

I have some Kenwood components in the dash, MB Quart in the doors, Harvey kit in the back and a basic Alpine HU. Never had any problems with the sound cutting out or with the amp powering the whole thing. you may just hav a loose connection. If it's the whole dash that's cutting out on you then check your connections at the amp.

[atmorris]

OK...I finished. 4" MB Quart DKD 110's in the dash and 6 1/2" MB Quart DKE 116's in the doors, along with the PNP rear speaker kit. The sound system is HUGELY improved. Better sound stage, presence, separation, and WAY better bass response. I took a lot of pictures, and over the next 4 or 5 days I will write this up proper, with pics, so anyone else who wants can see what I did. Finished deal is totally stock look. There are a couple of things I can tell you now....

1) "The doors have to be dedicated mid bass speakers...." That's not really true. Of course a purpose built driver will be constructed slightly differently to optimize it for the intended purpose, but 95% of you will not actually hear the difference. I put 6 1/2" MB Quart DKE-116 coaxials in the doors (because I got a good deal on them) and the bass presence of my system is HUGELY improved. There is no "buzzing" or muddyness as has been reported by some here. In fact, I now do not feel that I need to add the Kenwood sub that I had planned to before I changed out the door speakers.

The trick is to buy a speaker that has a frequency response bottom end that is low enough. Low frequency output is low frequency output....the signal doesn't know whether it is feeding a coaxial or a mid-bass driver. As long as the speaker can handle the frequency cleanly, it will. Of course the tweeter is not being driven at all. BUT, if I now want to put a sub in the footwell or back, I can always feed the doors front chanel signal and make use of the full spectrum the coaxial can handle.

2) It is SOOOOOOO worth the effort to replace the 5 1/4" door speakers with 6 1/2" drivers. You will not believe the difference it makes to this sound system.

3) I do not see how anybody can mount 6 1/2" drivers in those stock boxes and have a proper speaker mounting - or without adversly affecting the speaker's output performance. I'm not saying that you couldn't modify the box, add and adapter to the front , and physically FIT a 6 1/2" in there...but the "tuned" port wouldn't be tuned any more, and the speaker wouldn't be mounted in a manner to perform as designed.

P.S...Todd - both door speakers are green / green with black stripe color code. Front left is Yellow / yellow w black stripe and front right is red/red w black stripe.

Andy,

>Stock speaker was 2 3/4" deep. I don't see how anything more than a 5 1/4" could be worked into the stock enclosure, without affecting the sound.<

Andy,

So can I pop a 5 1/4" (standard coax) that has <2 3/4 mounting depth in the existing enclosure without mods? Is the "sub tuned port" sometype of closed enclosure that should be opened up or modified somehow so it does not affect the performance of the installed replacement speaker?

Thanks,

T

Should be able to...just make sure the coaxial has a frequency response starting at 40hz or lower. With another 5 1/4" the enclosure should perform fine without mod. If you go to a larger speaker I would lose the tuned box.

Edited May 21, 2006 by Andy_M

[CA_Boxster]

1) "The doors have to be dedicated mid bass speakers...." That's not really true. Of course a purpose built driver will be constructed slightly differently to optimize it for the intended purpose, but 95% of you will not actually hear the difference. I put 6 1/2" MB Quart DKE-116 coaxials in the doors (because I got a good deal on them) and the bass presence of my system is HUGELY improved. There is no "buzzing" or muddyness as has been reported by some here. In fact, I now do not feel that I need to add the Kenwood sub that I had planned to before I changed out the door speakers.

The MB Quart coax may just be a better speaker thant the Bostons I had in there. Glad it worked.

[atmorris]

I've got the adapter rings and baffles but I'm not sure what to replace the factory speakers with. Maybe JL Audio?

Do you mean you have these things for the rear storage speaker mounts? If so, you might consider MB Quart DKC108 or maybe Infinity REF3012CF or KAPPA32.7CF. Any of the three are good drivers. The Quarts are a shallow mount, although I don't think that is a problem in the rears, and they will be a bit brighter than the Infinity drivers.

Edited May 22, 2006 by Andy_M

[atmorris]

I added the PNP rear speaker kit and a small 30w 2 channel amp which fit under the passenger seat. Changed out the front dash to MB Quart 4" and 3/4" components, left the door speakers stock, going to put bass blockers on them since I added the small kenwood powered sub which fit behind the passenger seat with only sacrificing about 2" of legroom.

Can you post a picture of how well that sub fits behind the seat?

Has anyone had any issues with upgraded components turning off and on randomly? My MB Quarts in the dash keep cutting out, I thought it was the crossovers so I used other ones and it worked for a week, but yesterday and today they started cutting out randomly again. I suspect the factory amp may be overheating or can't handle the better speakers, but the amp isn't hot. I've checked all connections, can't figure this out. Just about ready to get a new 4 channel amp for the dash and rears, and an Alpine head unit for my ipod. Any thoughts?

Sounds more like a connection issue somewhere. The M490 amp shouldn't be having a hard time driving the MB's. The fact that you changed out the crossovers and the system was ok for a week would lead me to look at the crossover connections and mounting.

[toddhata]

Thanks for your suggestions, I'll check all the speaker connections again, and the amp connections. I'm almost to the point of replacing the amp and head unit with Alpine, I know it will sound better, and the ipod setup will be perfect, but I'd like to keep the stock look.

Andy thanks for the info on the door speaker wire colors, I'll have to see if I can figure out from the amp wiring if they match at all. Glad your setup sounds good, that sounded like a lot of work.

[insite]

i found the answer to our BASS problems. this is a 10" blaupunkt sub with a 2" mounting depth. anyone hear these?

[atmorris]

Thanks for your suggestions, I'll check all the speaker connections again, and the amp connections. I'm almost to the point of replacing the amp and head unit with Alpine, I know it will sound better, and the ipod setup will be perfect, but I'd like to keep the stock look.

Andy thanks for the info on the door speaker wire colors, I'll have to see if I can figure out from the amp wiring if they match at all. Glad your setup sounds good, that sounded like a lot of work.

Your welcome. Anything to help out. Do you have PCB crossovers or in-line ones on those MBs ? If in-line make sure that they aren't being "tugged on", If PCB, check to make sure your mounting is solid and in a place where nothing may be contacting or rubbing against the connections that you didn't think of.

It was a little bit of work, not really that bad though. I am a stickler for detail though and made the mounts fit just perfect, and used all soldered connections - no crimps, etc. Those things all slow you down too, but assure reliability. Actually the second door only took a couple of hours after developing the mounting plate using the first door. There is such a huge difference in the bass presence between the 5 1/4" and the 6 1/2" door speakers that it was surely worth the effort.

i found the answer to our BASS problems. this is a 10" blaupunkt sub with a 2" mounting depth. anyone hear these?

Now all we need is 10" of free space to mount them in...tough to come by in a Boxster :P

Seriously ....Where did you find these ? Interesting design....

[toddhata]

Andy,

the crossovers are inline, and secured very well, I think the problem has to be with the amp connection, that's the only place I haven't checked yet. The problem is very strange, sometimes it goes off and on with bumps in the road, sometimes it just goes off and on randomly while stopped. I can't recreate the problem in the garage yet, I've shaken and moved all the connection inside the car, so I'm hoping it's the amp wires in the trunk.

You should make more of those door mounts to sell, I'm sure many people would buy them, I'd consider it.

[atmorris]

Andy,

the crossovers are inline, and secured very well, I think the problem has to be with the amp connection, that's the only place I haven't checked yet. The problem is very strange, sometimes it goes off and on with bumps in the road, sometimes it just goes off and on randomly while stopped. I can't recreate the problem in the garage yet, I've shaken and moved all the connection inside the car, so I'm hoping it's the amp wires in the trunk.

You should make more of those door mounts to sell, I'm sure many people would buy them, I'd consider it.

I planned on making a scale CAD drawing of the door mounts and attaching it to the write up in a couple of formats for anyone to use. This way you could print out a template to start from. I don't really know if there are subtle differences in the door stampings from year-to-year or not, so the template might have to be "individualized" by the user anyway.

When you installed the MBs in the dash, how did you handle the connections? Did you modify the old speaker frame and use the stock connection, or did you splice/crimp/solder new ends onto the stock wires ? Your situation really sounds like a bad connection or a cut/pinched/broken wire somewhere. I always solder the new ends and/or cut-in points to avoid these kinds of issues.

i found the answer to our BASS problems. this is a 10" blaupunkt sub with a 2" mounting depth. anyone hear these?

FYI....I did some research on this speaker. Although I am seeing it listed on eBay as 2 1/4" mounting depth, the Blaupunkt specs list this speaker's mounting depth at 5.1" (130mm) deep, not 2". Not sure where the eBay guy is getting that number from.

Edited May 23, 2006 by Andy_M

[toddhata]

The MB's mounted easily, I only had to drill 1 hole for the 4", tweeters went right in, secured with a little epoxy. I didn't use the original wires, I used new ones, crimped and used heat srink tubing, all my connections seem to be very secure, I'll have to check if there's any pinches or broken wires. Tonight I should have some time to do some digging around. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[Charlestonboxster]

>I planned on making a scale CAD drawing of the door mounts and attaching it to the write up in a couple of formats for anyone to use. This way you could print out a template to start from.<

1- ALAN, This would be really fantastic for many guys now and in the future!

Jig sawing baffle board or plywood is well within the skills of most amateur diy'ers, but what intimidates me is the trial and error cutting out the right size price firsthand.

I'm up for mailing a beer fund in cash immediately if you can get a drawing up, as I'm ready to do the door upgrade.

2- 95% finished installing the huge magnet Boston s45's (4" coax) in Dash a'la Jinster. Mounting depth was over 2.2", and sure enough...left side dropped in fine...but the right side nudges against the bolt head... <_< . Drops in all the way if I twist it a tad, but grill does not lie perfectly flush. So..I will Dremel off 1/8" of an inch off the bolt and/or speaker magnet, and should drop in just perfectly.

What I did:

- I Broke apart the plastic Nokia speaker bracket to use it as a mount, like Jinster. 10 minute job, used metal cutter scissors.

- To drop the s45 fit into the Nokia bracket, I had to clip (same metal cutters) the 4 mounting tabs almost completely off, and left just a bit so they fit snugly. Too snugly as it turns out, had to Dremel the inside perimiter of the Nokia braket a tad. And, I cut a bit too much off some of the tabs, so Epoxy was needed to secure the criver in the Nokia bracket.

- I dropped some thick epoxy on each tab, and screwed the whole thing back in with the standard 3 screws.

- I reused the existing connectors, soldered female part to speaker s45 wires/clips.

As others have indicated, replacement sounds GREAT.

What I learned:

- 2.2" is pushing it if you don't want to grind the bolt or magnet. 2" depth replacement drivers eliminates this problem.

- Be careful clipping the tabs, to leave enough so they fit snug.

- I wanted to do this beause I enjoy DIY'ing, and challenged myself to fit the Bostons. If someone wants less hassle, VFBox's adapters are probably a simple way to go than clipping, dremeling, etc...

- Thick GEL epoxy (2 part) works well and does not spill where we don't want it to.

Test:

- With the stock tweeters still in place, hmm...I wonder if they would still be useable and of sufficient quality (suspectful) to compliment the s45. So I connected one of them, just soldered the wires to the s45 input in series. I would think 2 different tweeters (stock and the coax of the s45) may sound weird or not in phase, OR they may compliment each other and expand the highs, with the stock tweeter poiting in a different way. Could not tell a differerence yet, will test further this evening in quiet.

This has been a great thread, building on things done in the past.

Next steps:

6x40 amp

Harvey Peck Rear kit

Kenwood sub

Door replacement

PS: Does anyone know if the 6x40 amp does NOT have the high pass crossover or filter that I assume the 4x40 has? (Which would be why only low's go to the doors) Reason is, I hope all 6 channels drive all frequencies, so I can get full range from the doors. Thanks!

[toddhata]

Ok, so I found the problem with the dash speakers going on and off randomly. The left 4" speaker positive terminal touched the metal in the dash once in a while, I found this by accident. I redid all of my connections, had the wires all zip tied together neatly and tucked away under the dash, put the right speaker in, then the left, and as I tightened the 1st screw, the sound went out. It was then that I saw the terminal touches part of the metal in the dash. So I covered all the terminals with electrical tape and it's working fine.

On the Haes 4 channel amp, the door speakers are brown, brown with a stripe, green and green with a stripe.

Next step is to replace the door speakers, probably 6 1/2" mb quarts after Andy shares his template with us, thanks Andy!