Battery Life?

[TurboLove]

I have an '03 TT w/7K miles on it. Just last friday I drove it about 10 miles to run an errand. I got back into the car and would you know, I couldnt start the car. It definitely had to do with battery power. I called to get a jump and I was on my way. Now, I am starting to wonder if I need a new battery. I have read a couple previous threads but wanted to ask a few questions:

1) how long are original porsche batteries good for? Am I due to replace my original?

2) I may need a new one since I charged it (and drove the car around for about 40 miles), I just got into the car today and I sensed a bit of a lag when starting it. I noticed from a previous thread a Duralast 48-DL being one brand to fit 996. Which one is recommended for the turbo? any other brands recommended and what part #?

3) how much does Porsche charge for their batteries?

4) And lastly, what's the benefit of a battery maintainer except when the car is not driven regularly? should/can it be used on a new battery?

thanks for any insights and experiences you may have to share!!!

[killerbee]

I jst got the Optimia red top and will be swapping out the lead-acid one this weekend. There is an article in the DIY section that outlines the process. A normal lead acid battery has no business in a TT IMHO.

[Loren]

1. Usually a battery lasts 4 to 5 years. It is not uncommon to lose one in 3 years though.

2. Any good 70 Ah to 80 Ah battery of the proper physical size with a venting system (that can be connected to the cars vent) will work fine. We chose the Duralast 48-DL because of it's proper fit, venting system and 7 year warranty - all for about $65.

3. An 80 Ah battery from Porsche (999.611.080.20) has an MSRP of $181.11 (as of April 2006).

4. Yes, you can use the Porsche battery maintainer on any battery old or new. The newer designed battery maintainers shut off when the proper charge is met so they will not over charge the battery.

[nick49]

I've got a sealed Red Optima battery in the Boxster and Carrera that I relpaced the originals with. No corrosive acidic vapors to be vented which is a BIG plus as far as I am concerned. They are easy to adapt and work very well. The Battery Tender is an excellent alternative to the Porsche Maintainer at probably much less $. It can be left on unattended for months and keep your battery at 100%.

[TurboLove]

Thanks for the comments thus far. So, if I decide to get one of the non-porshce batteries and replace it myself (which I cannot imagine to be that tough) I want to know the best way to ensure I dont lose all my stereo and other electronic settings. What is someone like me to do in this case? is there a certain amount of time that I can swap out the old battery to put in the new one and be safe in keeping all electronic settings? Just curious. are there any good DIY links someone can suggest? Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and help. I am such a novice it's not even funny!! :help:

OK, I also just read up on The Battery Tender and see that it is indeed much cheaper than a Porsche Battery Maintainer (1/2 the cost). However, assuming the Tender does the exact same job, would I need a 1.25A 12 volt model for my car battery? I see there are all kinds of different Battery Tender models available. Any insights would again be appreciated. seems like the way to go when not driving a car daily....

[wingless]

The battery needs to maintained fully charged, at all times to maximize battery life.

A battery will self-discharge over time, usually about 10% per month, more in warmer temperatures.

A battery that reaches about 70% state-of-charge will begin to sulfate rapidly. This is permanent damage that reduces battery capacity. The sulfation is also accelerated during warmer temperatures.

It does not hurt a battery to maintain it at float voltage, 13.8 volts for a flooded cell battery. A battery may be floated indefinitely without damage. BTW, a flooded cell battery would still need the electrolyte level maintained.

If you want to swap without losing setting, then you'll need to pump voltage into the cigar lighter and not short the positive lead to ground.

It is easy to quantify the battery health with an AC conductance meter. Gone are the dangerous load tests of the past.

[TurboLove]

Note: I have something else to add. My battery gauge on my dash shows it at 14 ( the range is 10-16). According to the owner's manual, this is good. Could my problem maybe something other than the battery? like the alternator?? Just thought I would add as much info about what I am faced. thanks!

[TurboLove]

Guys, I'm in need of some serious advice. I was able to start my car again this weekend but when I parked it (10 minutes later) I couldnt start it. I had to call for a jump start to get it going again. (second jump in three weeks). The AAA guy did pull out a tool to check the battery and said that it was generating close to 14 amps (I guess that's what he read). Now the question: am I truly dealing with a dead/dying battery or could there be a starter or alternator problem? I suppose if it was a starter problem I wouldnt be able to start the car...

The dealer wants to charge me $350 to check out the issues. ($280 for a new battery alone!) what would you do in this situation? I have seen the recommended Duralast 48DL battery that I could just install myself but could there be other hidden issues with my electrical system that I am not aware of?

[1999Porsche911]

Guys, I'm in need of some serious advice. I was able to start my car again this weekend but when I parked it (10 minutes later) I couldnt start it. I had to call for a jump start to get it going again. (second jump in three weeks). The AAA guy did pull out a tool to check the battery and said that it was generating close to 14 amps (I guess that's what he read). Now the question: am I truly dealing with a dead/dying battery or could there be a starter or alternator problem? I suppose if it was a starter problem I wouldnt be able to start the car...

The dealer wants to charge me $350 to check out the issues. ($280 for a new battery alone!) what would you do in this situation? I have seen the recommended Duralast 48DL battery that I could just install myself but could there be other hidden issues with my electrical system that I am not aware of?

I thought you were doing the obvious and get a new $48 battery from Costco or Samsclub? Or, you can wait to be jump started a few more time til you get a new one.

Edited May 3, 2006 by 1999Porsche911

[Q-Ship986]

Hi. Your first post indicates your problem(s) began on April 14. On that day, your car started, but after a short run, would not start again until you got a jump. Based on your last post, I assume you went about two weeks since that episode without (a.) using a battery tender, and/or (b.) driving your car much (if at all). After that time period, your car started, but after a short run, would not start again until you got a jump.

If that's a correct summation, it sure sounds like a tired, discharged battery.

Probably not your alternator/charging system.

Not your starter.

You may be able to fully trickle charge your battery (i.e. at a 2 amp rate), maintain it with a tender, and squeeze a couple more years out of it. On the other hand, the plates within the battery may be too far gone to ever hold a full charge. Can't answer those questions from here.

--Brian

Edited May 3, 2006 by Q-Ship986

[0586slb]

Note: I have something else to add. My battery gauge on my dash shows it at 14 ( the range is 10-16). According to the owner's manual, this is good. Could my problem maybe something other than the battery? like the alternator?? Just thought I would add as much info about what I am faced. thanks!

The gauge is showing the voltage output of the alternator. The reading of 14V will only be whilst the engine is running. When the ignition is on but engine not running, a reading of 12.5V is to be expected. A battery can have a cell intermittantly going high resistance through sulphating of the cells. As previously posted, sulphation is an irreversible aging process of a Lead-Acid battery.

What electrical settings are you worried about? The DME will relearn in a day or so, the windows are reset by a 'double click' when they are at the fully closed position so that leaves the radio. Did you get a code card when you received your vehicle? Being a 2003 model, it may not need the code to be entered.

[TurboLove]

final update: first, thanks for all the responses. I have and hopefully others have as well learned more about car batteries than ever before. I ended up bringing the car to the dealership and they replaced the battery under warranty. I also bought a battery maintainer which is now plugged in. This is one bit of advice everyone should take.

This chapter is closed. thanks again.