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oil Change

mdillian3690
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Tool Pants Member

Tool Pants

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If the filter housing was not cranked on then you might be able to unscrew it by hand. But we have done a lot of filter changes over the year and 99% of the time they are on tight enough that you need a tool.

In fact, I have the names of the 2 mechanics at my local dealer who like to crank them on like it was a wheel bolt....

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Orient Express Member

Orient Express

Posted
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Posted
Oil filter cap style wrench. They come in plastic and metal. Get the metal if you can. It should be 74 mm by 14 flutes/flats.

This is what I use, the Wallmart special. They have number sizes, and I have the #7 for the Porsche. The manufacturer of this one is FloTool, and it is graphite plastic. I think it cost $4.

1999Porsche911 Member

1999Porsche911

Posted
Posted
One more thing, is it necessary to put the car on ramps or jack? I know it will make it easier, but is there clearance without? Thanks!

No ramps needed. If your car has been lowered, simply drive it up on a couple of 2x boards and you'll have all the room you need.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
mdillian3690 Member

mdillian3690

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can the filter be put on in any direction? Does it matter which side is put in? Thanks!

Either way.

Hey guys, I did my first oil change. I used 0W40 M1 (MI). Is this ok? I was told by the dealer this is what they use. The only reason I ask is because I just briefly glanced at the owners manual and noticed that is said to use other visciosity of oil, such as 5W30, 10W40 or 15W40. Should I be fine with the MI temps? Also, what is the normal engine operatine temp? Is it around 180-190 degrees? Thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
delirium Member

delirium

Posted
Posted

I just got my car filled w/ 5W-30 from a mechanic, however per the manual, this viscocity is only for 50 degrees F. and lower... I have to get the oil changed again!

Izzy Member

Izzy

Posted
Posted

I don't think Porsche recommends any 5/30 oils. 0/40 is the recommended for year round, and most people used a heavier viscocity for summer, like 5/50. Going to thinner oil for summer is probably a very bad idea.

If you don't do it yourself and take it to mechanic, you can always buy the oil you want and hand it to them to use, for example 10 quarts of Syntec 5/50 ought to do it.

jlb532 Member

jlb532

Posted
Posted

Can't believe this! As a result of this post, I decided to inquire with the shop that did the previous oil change on my car last month (while owned by previous owner), and found they too used 5W-30! (Mobile 1, but still 30!)

I questioned them, and they are adamant that this oil is fine, and that they've got 20 porsches in the shop and are using it for all of them.

I'm not taking chances, and hope to use this opportunity to attempt my first DIY procedure. Now, please understand I have NO experience working on cars....and my wife thinks I'm nuts beginning on this one. But from what everyone here says, it sounds doable. I found Loren's writeup, but I had a few outstanding questions for those who have done it here:

1) Is the oil drain plug difficult to locate? Can anyone post a pic of what it looks like/where it is?

2) I understand car need to be at operating temp to change it...car should be turned off though, correct?

3) I plan to pick up some ramps and raise the rear that way...is this okay?

4) I understand I can go with the tighten by hand, then quarter turn further method when replacing the drain plug.

Any other things to consider/watch out for?

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Loren Member

Loren

Posted
  • Admin
Posted
Can't believe this! As a result of this post, I decided to inquire with the shop that did the previous oil change on my car last month (while owned by previous owner), and found they too used 5W-30! (Mobile 1, but still 30!)

I questioned them, and they are adamant that this oil is fine, and that they've got 20 porsches in the shop and are using it for all of them.

I'm not taking chances, and hope to use this opportunity to attempt my first DIY procedure. Now, please understand I have NO experience working on cars....and my wife thinks I'm nuts beginning on this one. But from what everyone here says, it sounds doable. I found Loren's writeup, but I had a few outstanding questions for those who have done it here:

1) Is the oil drain plug difficult to locate? Can anyone post a pic of what it looks like/where it is?

2) I understand car need to be at operating temp to change it...car should be turned off though, correct?

3) I plan to pick up some ramps and raise the rear that way...is this okay?

4) I understand I can go with the tighten by hand, then quarter turn further method when replacing the drain plug.

Any other things to consider/watch out for?

1. Drain plug location

post-2-1147900466_thumb.jpg

2. Warm (does not need to be hot) and yes turn it off.

3. Yes, I use 3 2x10's to do the same thing.

4. No, the best way is to use a torque wrench. If you don't have one then just tighten using a short wrench. You don't need (or want) to overtighten it).

jlb532 Member

jlb532

Posted
Posted

Loren, one more question...okay actually two.

1) Do you drive both rears onto the 2x10's...or only the right rear? I assume you mean two inches (high) and ten inch wide...so the front tires are still on the ground and only the rears are raised. Do the boards slide out when driving up on them?

2) Any tips to avoid 'over-tightening' the drain plug?

Thanks

  • Admin
Loren Member

Loren

Posted
  • Admin
Posted

1. Yes, just the rears.

2. Buy a torque wrench at Sears. It will be a well spent $60.

The drain plug should be 37 ft/lbs.

Use it for your wheel bolts too (96 ft/lbs).

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