Sport Shifter Installation

[S_Liners]

Hi,

I am going to attempt installing an OEM Sport shifter and downloaded the guide from B&M. Looks pretty straight forward, except for step 1.

Anybody has any experience on how exactly to unclip the leather boot?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Leo.

:help:

[jean]

Hi,

I am going to attempt installing an OEM Sport shifter and downloaded the guide from B&M. Looks pretty straight forward, except for step 1.

Anybody has any experience on how exactly to unclip the leather boot?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Leo.

:help:

You can pry the shift boot off by inserting a screwdriver under the chrome ring and then gently prying it off.

I suggest you fold a piece of paper or cloth over the screwdriver to prevent any scratches.

Also, insert the screwdiver at four different opposed locations and just lift gently at each, rather than all at once .

You can also try using a plastic spatula instead of the crewdriver .

The biggest problem I encountered was getting the KNOB off . I actually had to make my own "tool" to pry the thing off.

Edited March 21, 2006 by Jean

[S_Liners]

Hi,

I am going to attempt installing an OEM Sport shifter and downloaded the guide from B&M. Looks pretty straight forward, except for step 1.

Anybody has any experience on how exactly to unclip the leather boot?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Leo.

:help:

You can pry the shift boot off by inserting a screwdriver under the chrome ring and then gently prying it off.

I suggest you fold a piece of paper or cloth over the screwdriver to prevent any scratches.

Also, insert the screwdiver at four different opposed locations and just lift gently at each, rather than all at once .

You can also try using a plastic spatula instead of the crewdriver .

The biggest problem I encountered was getting the KNOB off . I actually had to make my own "tool" to pry the thing off.

Thanks so much for the info, I will start working on it right away.

Will let you know how it works out.

:clapping:

[Tool Pants]

....

[jean]

....

Tool Pants: is this picture from a Boxter ?

In my 997 S , I placed the screwdriver BELOW the chrome ring (between the chrome and the console )and popped the entire assembly including the attached leather shifter boot off together .

Edited March 21, 2006 by Jean

[S_Liners]

Jean,

Ok, I am having exactly the same problem now.

They really make it sound so easy on the installation guide, so I twisted the collar 90' clockwise, but nothing.

How did you manage to remove it? What type of "tool" did you build?

Thanks in advance.

Edited March 21, 2006 by S_Liners

[Loren]

B&M Instructions say:

Using Channel Locks - twist collar 90° clockwise.

[S_Liners]

B&M Instructions say:

Using Channel Locks - twist collar 90° clockwise.

Thanks for your response, that is what I tried, but it is not moving at all after twisting the collar.

Am I missing something?

[Loren]

Make sure you don't have an optional knob with a set screw. If so remove the set screw.

[jean]

Jean,

Ok, I am having exactly the same problem now.

They really make it sound so easy on the installation guide, so I twisted the collar 90' clockwise, but nothing.

How did you manage to remove it? What type of "tool" did you build?

Thanks in advance.

Hope the pictures attach.

[jean]

Jean,

Ok, I am having exactly the same problem now.

They really make it sound so easy on the installation guide, so I twisted the collar 90' clockwise, but nothing.

How did you manage to remove it? What type of "tool" did you build?

Thanks in advance.

The tool is made from a ~ 2" x 2" x 3/8" thick piece of scrap aluminum.

You notch a ~ 1/2 " wide opening in the middle , just wide enough to fit around the shifter .

Then drill and tap for two 1/4" carriage bolts on either side . (Bolts should be about 1 1/2" long )

You adjust the bolt lengths so that the aluminum plate fits up snugly against the plastic collar below the shift knob. The bolt heads face down and rest on top of the shifter base (see picture )

MAKE SURE THE COLLAR IS TURNED 90 deg. CLOCKWISE BEFORE PROCEEDING .

( I could turn it by hand and did not need a wrench to turn it )

I put a dab of white-out on it to see it did not move while forcing the knob off . Also, I suggest you mark the shaft just below the collar, to give you a reference point later , to see how far down on the new shaft the knob has to go and finally , also mark the cables so you have a starting point when re-attaching them .

Then all it takes is to give the bolts ( alternatingly ) a few clockwise turns with a wrench , basically backing them out of the aluminum plate.

Since the bolt heads cannot go down , the plate has to go up

" breaking " the knob loose.

(It only has to go up about 1/4 " or so to loosen the knob )

Someone else may have a better idea , but this worked for me .

Prior to removing the console , remember that there is a wiring harness attached to it . You will need to disconnect the cigarette lighter , the 12 volt outlet and the harness from it's fasteners before removal .

Finally, there has been a lot of discussions regarding shifting . If the cables are adjusted properly , all gears should shift VERY SMOOTHLY . I found that there was very little difference between the sport and the standard shifter . I can down shift into first from around 20 mph or so .

Make sure you play with the cable lenghts until all gears shift smoothly , before " closing " up the console .

Good luck .

Edited March 22, 2006 by Loren

[Tool Pants]

My picture is a 987 Boxster. I thought it is the same as a 997.

I watched a mechanic at the dealer remove the shift knob from a 987. You have to rotate that locking collar as stated above.

Then the mechanic stood on the seats. One foot on each seat. Then he reached down and pulled the knob off. I do not know what is going on with the new knobs but they seem to take more effort than a 996/986 to pull off the metal shaft.

[S_Liners]

That was very creative Jean, I must say.

Thanks for the idea, I actually used a similar principle to remove it.

I wrapped a piece of cloth around the shifter to avoid scratching it, then used a pair of locking pliers very close to the collar, and the used another set of pliers between them and pushed them down against the first set to create a lever, and that did the trick.

So it is finished, very cool, I am glad I decided to install it, it's great.

All the gears engaged seamlessly, no issues there, although when shifting into 2nd and 4th, I do get a small hit, probably from the bottom of the shifter, I am wondering if this is normal?

Thanks.

Edited March 22, 2006 by S_Liners

[jean]

That was very creative Jean, I must say.

Thanks for the idea, I actually used a similar principle to remove it.

I wrapped a piece of cloth around the shifter to avoid scratching it, then used a pair of locking pliers very close to the collar, and the used another set of pliers between them and pushed them down against the first set to create a lever, and that did the trick.

So it is finished, very cool, I am glad I decided to install it, it's great.

All the gears engaged seamlessly, no issues there, although when shifting into 2nd and 4th, I do get a small hit, probably from the bottom of the shifter, I am wondering if this is normal?

Thanks.

You get a lot of satisfaction when you do something like that yourself( unless you happen to be a mechanic of course Lol )

There should not be ANY obstuctions if the cables are at the proper tension .

As I said before, I can hardly tell a difference between the standard and the sport shifter , other than the faster , shorter throw unless it's very cold outside . Then the transmission gear lubrication is a little stiff until it warms up.