Passenger Window hits quarter window at top corner.

[siddharth]

Hi guys,

I'm having a new problem with my '99 996 C2.

When I try opening the passenger door with the window fully closed/raised, the door doesn't open because the top right corner of the window glass jams, being a little behind the rear fixed window glass. I need to lower the passenger window by 1-2 inches and then it opens properly. The dealership said that the window regulator is at fault and would charge me ~$480 to fix it. I'm hoping its something I can do on my own with your help !

The problem is much more noticable when opening the door from the inside than outside. And in either case, the window DOES drop by ~1 centimeter (1/2 inch) when I pull on the handle.

Details:

I've made a quick diagram since its slightly weird to explain. The diagram is attached to this message.

Basically, the vertical edges between those two pieces of glass SHOULD be parallel, but whats happening is that as I raise the passenger window, the glass tilts backwards and ends up finding itself about 1-2mm BEHIND the fixed smaller rear window. The usual distance is around 4 mm between the glass' vertical edges with the rubber seal behind/between them. This gap is properly maintained at the lower end of the windows and looks same as the driver's side (which is perfect).

Do you guys know what the problem is and maybe recommend a fix towards it ?

Is it really the window regulators ? Must I replace them or are they adjustable ?

Thanks in advance !

Sid

Edited March 7, 2006 by siddharth

[siddharth]

Anybody knows what might be the issue ?

So many views but no replies :(

[Loren]

There are a number of adjustments to the door windows - about 4 pages devoted to it in the service manual. Regulators are know to wearout or go bad.

[siddharth]

There are a number of adjustments to the door windows - about 4 pages devoted to it in the service manual. Regulators are know to wearout or go bad.

So you're saying my best bet is to turn the car in and have them fix it for ~$480 ? Its a legitimate suggestion, I just wanted to be sure that's what you mean !

Also, do you know the page numbers of that in the service manual ?

- Sid

Edited March 9, 2006 by siddharth

[Loren]

I mean there are a number of adjustments and you still may need to replace the regulator in the end. You can try to adjust it if you want -- the sections starts at 57-6 page 3.

[eurotrashed]

It is either the regulator and/or one of the clamps that holds the glass came loose. Mine had both problems. If the clamps loosen, the position of the glass will change, and mine was hitting in the same spot yours is, making a very disturbing closing sound, yes?

The regulator cable will start to destroy itself around the main pulley and soon be making a crunching sound. I spent an afternoon and put in the new regulator and adjusted it. I think the regulator was approximately $150 shipped. If you aren't up for taking the door panel apart, probably have a shop or dealer do it.

I used this link to get familar with the process:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

[LVGeorge]

The regulator cable will start to destroy itself around the main pulley and soon be making a crunching sound. I spent an afternoon and put in the new regulator and adjusted it. I think the regulator was approximately $150 shipped. If you aren't up for taking the door panel apart, probably have a shop or dealer do it.

Hiya guys, I haven't been around much, but when it rains it pours with my car (2000 996 C4 cabriolet). I had been conversing via PM's with Izzy about fixing my convertible top (John Deere fluid fix) :) and now my rear window won't work.

It is EXACTLY the crunching sound as listed above, so I fear a regulator issue :(

Sounds like an $800 visit in total to the dealership, but I am now of the mindset, "let 'em fix it all and give it back to me perfect again". And pretty. :D

Sorry for the venting; I should come around more often and not only to vent.

[LVGeorge]

So I just dropped the car off at the dealership.

Apparently (according to the dealership), the small rear window regulator is MUCH more expensive than the front window regulators. They are going to do it for $1,100. :cursing:

The top (fluid fill) is going to be another $300.

I know I could've probably handled the fluid fill on my own thanks to Izzy's great DIY, but I just want to get my car back running like a top tomorrow.

Thanks for the opportunity to vent again, $1,400 later.

[Izzy]

Sorry to hear it went that way. Depending where you are located, finding a decent non-dealer place to take the car could be a good choice, save some bucks.

Izzy

[eurotrashed]

So I just dropped the car off at the dealership.

Apparently (according to the dealership), the small rear window regulator is MUCH more expensive than the front window regulators. They are going to do it for $1,100. :cursing:

The top (fluid fill) is going to be another $300.

I know I could've probably handled the fluid fill on my own thanks to Izzy's great DIY, but I just want to get my car back running like a top tomorrow.

Thanks for the opportunity to vent again, $1,400 later.

OUCH.. sorry to hear that!

[siddharth]

It is either the regulator and/or one of the clamps that holds the glass came loose. Mine had both problems. If the clamps loosen, the position of the glass will change, and mine was hitting in the same spot yours is, making a very disturbing closing sound, yes?

The regulator cable will start to destroy itself around the main pulley and soon be making a crunching sound. I spent an afternoon and put in the new regulator and adjusted it. I think the regulator was approximately $150 shipped. If you aren't up for taking the door panel apart, probably have a shop or dealer do it.

I used this link to get familar with the process:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

Wow ! Good information there. Well - I don't get any crunching sound or anything when raising / lowering the windows. But if the glasses touch (saw window up, and I close the door) then there is a slight glass on glass sound.

Looking at the pictures (nice detailed writeup BTW!!) I think I should 1st start out by adjusting the screws at the bottom edge of the door before opening up the side door. I've opened side doors before(although on my girlfriends Nissan Altima !), so it shouldn't be something extreme ...

[siddharth]

Ok, so I was able to fix this problem too. My window regulator was ok and I re-calibrated the adjustment screws to re-align the window correctly. I had to remove the door trim and I noticed that the steps for the 996 are a little different than captured at http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/.

Removing the door trim

1. The door handle (not door opener) on the 996 is C shaped and has a vertical seam. There are two halves snapped and hence the vertical seam you see. Put a blunt plastic spatula in that seam and gently pry off the outer plastic away from the door. It should snap off from several places and nothing is breakable as such.
   
2. That half of the handle, which is still on the door has two T27 (25?) screws in it. Both quite long. Remove them
   
3. Behind the door opener (pull it open) is another Philips screw. Remove this too.
   
4. Pry off the "AirBag" logo (just the 1-2" plastic logo, NOT 10" airbag panel!!) and remove the single screw behind it
   
5. Use a plastic spatula and pry off the door light near the bottom. Easier if the plastic spatula is inserted on the edge nearer to the door hinge. Pull the cover out (it simply slides off) and push the wire in. Be caseful not to crush the bulb during re-installation of the trim !
   
6. Now starting from the bottom, pry off the door trim on the left side, bottom and right side. These three edges are held there with plastic clips and just pry off. There are no clips on the top !
   
7. The plastic trim now rests only on the top, gently lift it and move it out.
   
8. The door opening electrical wire (upper edge- middle) should be disconnected before you can move the panel any furthur.
   
9. You can now either disconnect the metal wire connected to the door opener (better) and keep the panel aside or keep it connected and simply rotate the trim panel, resting it on the door itself. Be careful not to put too much load on that metal wire if you decide to keep it connected - it cannot handle too much twist and is a pain to replace. So make sure the trim won't fall when you've propped it on the door !
   

Adjusting the window

I now had to adjust my windows to that the passenger side no longer hits the smaller rear window. i.e. realign the window ...

1. Connect the battery
   
2. Move the window to the topmost position. In this position you can take off two oval plastic/rubber covers on the door sides (under the door trim if the door trim is in its original position) revealing two screws that determine how high/low the window is held in its clamp. You'd be losening the screw, pulling up/lowering the glass at that point and then tightening the screw again. I adjusted so that the glass was a bit higher on the rear and a bit lower on the front. This basically rotated my passenger window clockwise (from outside) by 2-3 degrees.
   
3. I then noticed that the window wasn't rising as much in the front side and could go another 2-3 mm higher on the front side to seal the window perfectly.
   
4. So I now needed to adjust how high the window rises/the upper limit. Move the window to the lowermost position. There are 4 oval rubber covers on the door's lower edge. The door trim need NOT be removed to access these. We're interested in the hole closest to the hinge and the hole furthest from the hinge - so take their covers off. Inside each of these two oval holes, there is one 3/16" hex screwhead (use a flashlight). We use them to adjust the front/back stopping window height. I think anticlockwise rotation = increasing the height and clockwise = lowering. I used the screw in the front oval hole (nearest to the hinge) to raise the ending position of the window by 3 mm up.
   

The window now works perfectly. I don't know how/when/why the window decided to lose its alignment ...

NOTE: If I were to start from scratch, I'd try the adjustment screws at the bottom of the door ... the ones I talk about in #4. they are very accessible and might resolve your problem quickly. If that didn't work then I'd take the door trim off and play with the adjustment screws I talk of in #2.

Of course, its also possible that your window regulator IS messed up so what I did may not help at all ! In that case

1) Read this post of how to get your door trim off

2) Continue to http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/ on how to remove and install your new window regulator.

hope that helps

Sid

It is either the regulator and/or one of the clamps that holds the glass came loose. Mine had both problems. If the clamps loosen, the position of the glass will change, and mine was hitting in the same spot yours is, making a very disturbing closing sound, yes?

The regulator cable will start to destroy itself around the main pulley and soon be making a crunching sound. I spent an afternoon and put in the new regulator and adjusted it. I think the regulator was approximately $150 shipped. If you aren't up for taking the door panel apart, probably have a shop or dealer do it.

I used this link to get familar with the process:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

Wow ! Good information there. Well - I don't get any crunching sound or anything when raising / lowering the windows. But if the glasses touch (saw window up, and I close the door) then there is a slight glass on glass sound.

Looking at the pictures (nice detailed writeup BTW!!) I think I should 1st start out by adjusting the screws at the bottom edge of the door before opening up the side door. I've opened side doors before(although on my girlfriends Nissan Altima !), so it shouldn't be something extreme ...

Edited April 4, 2006 by siddharth