Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Brake pads and rotors each have their own break in requirements. It is recommended that new rotors be burnished with old pads and new pads bedded in to old rotors, but this is not a requirement.

When pads are bedded in two things are accomplished: 1) the binding resins are burned out of the outer region of the pad, reducing further "outgassing"; 2) a uniform layer of brake pad material is deposited on the rotors.

When new rotors are burnished you also want to put a uniform layer of pad material on the new rotor, as well as heating the rotors up to operating temperature and letting them cool back down.

In both cases, the procedure is to do a series of progressively harder stops.

The following article explains it all in more detail:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Posted

Many thanks for your information KevinC, I have read the whole article and has been very interesting for me. It cleared some technical points that I were not complete clare for me. Your are :welcome:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.