Oil Filler Pipe leak

[Paul Fraser]

I've been told by two garages that oil is leaking from my oil filler pipe (not sure where, maybe the pipe myabe the gasket). The garage I put it in to says that it is an engine out job. Can anyone confirm this or not, please? Anyone changed this themselves? How is the pipe connected to the top of the engine, is it by three bolts. Thanks in advance.

[Paul Fraser]

PS I've already looked at TSB 1715 (replacement of the middle section of the oil filler pipe) and I'll be mentioning this to him. Anyone have any gasket problems?

[PTEC]

Take it somewhere else, that job can be done in the car.

Edited December 11, 2005 by PTEC

[D_Man]

I have a 996 that has a broken Oil filler neck, Im told this can be changed in about 2 hours. Tha alternator has to come off the car so you can get to the bolts.

Here is the DIY

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...4&hl=Oil+filler

Dennis

[mee]

I have the same/similar problem. Most likely, it is the same accordian/bellows portion which I've read can crack/leak. Mine is soaked with oil and drips. For the life of me, I couldn't get that accordian piece out. There are not gaskets--only 2 spring clamps. The tube snaps on with thicker detents on the ends. (I have the replacement parts.) There is also an oil filler tube portion that fits into the block and attaches by 3 bolts. I found that there is no easy way to remove that either because the 3rd bolt is blocked by the right manifold, so I determined I would not replace that part :) You cannot get to it from the front side of the engine either.

It seems possible to remove the forward end of the bellows. I removed the spring clamp, but still could not get the hose off. I didn't want to try any harder for fear of braking the portion that fits into the block above. I even cracked the flange on the plastic fill tube to the block. The only way I figure it will come out is if I cut it off. The real problem, however, is the rear of the accordian tube that connects to the trunk which is wholly inaccessible. I finally found this jewel of a post:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6675

In the post by Tool Pants regarding his coolant tank replacement, you can see the oil fill hose well above the coolant line indicated by the yellow arrow. It makes the coolant line look like a piece of cake. I have tried getting at it from above and below with special hose clamp tools and even a lot of cussing, but there is no way. I will try again maybe over the holidays taking out more parts.

Tool Pants, do you think or know if it's possible to get to the trunk end of the accordian portion of the oil fill tube (in Post #13) by taking out the radiator tank? That is a heck of a lot of extra work, but if that's what has to be done, then I'd rather do it than paying X 100s of dollars to someone else. The access is truly unbelievable. My fill tube is soaked where it connects at the sheetmetal whereas yours is only a little damp. The accordian portion is soaked but I can tell if it's running down from the clamp end or not. One boarder posted that upon removal, his was perforated in several places.

Anyone know for sure how to remove the oil fill hose? The access/orientation is very different from the 996.

Reference:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/post-4-1132614291.jpg

[PTEC]

The oil fill neck on the boxster has 3 pieces. The first piece which attaches to the the case has an o ring to seal it. The middle peice is connected to the first peice with a hose clamp, and at the other end attaches to the third piece with another hose clamp. The last piece is the one you seen when you open the trunk and pop off the cap. I know people around here have PET access, the picture in PET shows it pretty clearly.

Removal of the middle piece (which has the accordian) isnt all that tough, but it is a bit tricky. The hose clamp connecting the filler tube to the engine is cake, but the one connecting it to the coolant tank assembly is the tricky part. I have a pair of hose clamp pliers which use a cable about two feet off from the handles of the pliers. They're expensive... try a 110 bucks.. but they make the job a snap. I pull out the rear carpet and look through the grommet where the engine wire harness runs into the trunk. With the special hose clamp pliers you can put that hose clamp on the tube and lock the pliers with the clamp expanded. Slide the tube on and looking through the grommet make sure the clamp is on nice and even, then release the pliers and viola. Im sure its possible without the special pliers but with them... its a slam bang job. Probably 30 minutes to do the entire job, pulling off the engine cover and everything.

Edited December 22, 2005 by PTEC

[Loren]