Replacing Rear Window For Hard Top

[Larry Nakamura]

This is how to replace a broken rear window for your hardtop. I broke mine when

it was hanging from the hoist in my garage. I accidently had a small piece of 2X4 fall

about a foot onto my hardtop window and shattered it to pieces. I was very surprised

how easy it was to break. Approx 1/2 of it immediately fell out of the window. I knocked

the rest out so it wouldn't fall on the top of my car. All that was left was the edge that

was glued to the top with about 1/4 inch of shattered glass. You an imagine I was pretty

sick when it happened as I knew I just spent a chunk of money to get it fixed.

I showed toolpants so he could take a picture of it hanging in my garage with the

broken window. I didn't take any pictures of the process as it's just as described in

the manual. The glass was $568 + tax from the dealer. I had a 10% off parts coupon

so total cost was $553. I asked the dealer (A&B in San Jose) how much it would be

for them to do the work and they said they usually send it out to a window place to

have the work done, but I'm guessing it would be at least $500+ in labor.

I decided to do the work myself as I have the manuals (15 binders which cost $400).

First you have to pop off the inside side trim as you need to get to the connectors for

the heating element and pull down the rear of the headliner. Pull the trim piece back

alittle so you can see where the tabs are located. I used a long screw driver to pop

them out. There are 6 on each side. Be careful not to break them, but they do just

pop out. You also need to take out the piece that covers the locking arm. The rear of

the headliner is just held in place by a few little lips. This helps to get it out of the way

so you don't tear it while doing the work or get glue on it.

Next, using a utility knife cut the glue that is holding the remainder of the trim/glass.

There are rivits under the glue that you need to be careful not to damage. I could

feel where they were as I was cutting and would cut the glue over the top of them.

This was the hard part of the job and was a ***** to do. It took a few hours and several

blades to do all the cutting along with a few cuts on my hands from the shattered

glass that was left. Do this with a tarp under the top as there will be alot of small

glass bits flying everywhere. I cut as much of the old glue off as I could to make sure

the new windshield would sit down in the opening. I was very glad when I had this all

done, as I said this was a *****.

I bought a tube of 3M Windo-Weld Resealant from Kreagan's for $10. I cleaned the

area that would be glued on the new windshield with rubbing alcohol and the area

on the hardtop. Using a caulking gun, put a good bead of glue on the perimeter

of the hardtop. Set the new windshield down in place. I did a few trials of this without

the glue to make sure I knew how the new windshield should fix. Note; The new

windshield comes "ready to install". In other words it has the trim and weather

stripping already on it. You don't reuse the old trim/weatherstripping which was nice.

Anything to make the job easier. Make sure the weatherstripping is seated correctly.

You don't want any possible water leakage. I placed some weights on top of the

windshield to hold it down while the glue was drying. Also it's a good idea to put a

couple strips of tape to make sure the windshield doesn't move while the glue is

drying (as shown in the manual). I let the glue dry for 2 days just to make sure.

Connect up the heater element connectors. There is one on each side of the windshield.

One goes to the connector that you plug in when putting the hardtop on the car. The

other goes to a screw in the hardtop (This is the ground side). You will see how it connects

once you pull off the 2 inside / side trim pieces. Put the rear of the headliner back in

place and pop on the inside / side trim pieces. Clean all the hand/finger prints from the

top of the hardtop you make when doing all the work and your done.

The moral of this is. do not stupidly break your back window, or it could cost you more

then the cost of the hardtop to get it fixed. The people at the dealer said they have seem

where an owner broke the windshield by dropping the top too.

I would say the $400 cost for the manuals paid for themselves with this job. This is for

a 2001S Boxster hardtop.

Edited December 10, 2005 by Larry Nakamura

[Larry Nakamura]

Correction, The 3M Window-Weld in the tube is not viscus enough to make a

good bead. It flattened out too much and did not work well. I tried to lift up on

the window and it lifted up. So I went and got the 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer

(3/8 inch diameter0 and it worked great. The tube stuff is for fixing a leak in a

window and is why it is a liquid. The ribbon cost $12 and comes in a 15 foot

length (more then enough).

[Tool Pants]

That is an expensive piece of glass.

[Larry Nakamura]

Thanks Jeff, I hope I never see that picture again. It's back to like new

now, so no worries.