Brake Pad Change Instructions

[Loren]

View this tutorial

Brake Pad Change Instructions

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Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 set 996 352 949 03 Front Brake Pads - Porsche (Pagid "S" Pads - Dark Blue - T5104SRS14) 1 set 996 351 088 01 Front Vibration Dampers for Brake Pads (recommended) 2 ea 996 351 959 00 Front Pad Repair Kit (consisting of 2 bolts, springs and securing clips) 2 sets 996 612 365 00 Front and Rear Wear Sensors (if needed) 1 set 996

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• Author
  Loren
• Category
  Carrera (996) - Maintenance
• Submitted
  11/16/2005 07:25 AM

 

[ArneeA]

Hi Loren. What's a good piston reset tool would you recommend that works well with the C4S/Turbo brakes?

I found this tool below, is this sufficient? Thanks in advance.

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?acti...P=1&LowCt=0

[Loren]

That tool might work fine - I would just make sure it won't scratch the calipers.

(I must be lazy and cheap - I just push the pistons back using the old pads - :lol: )

[ArneeA]

:D Thanks.

[colonel]

Hi Loren,

Is it necessary to get the repair kit (bolt, expanding spring, securing clip), damping plate, warning contact, etc?

Can I just replace the pads and re-use everything else?

Thanks!

Edited April 10, 2007 by colonel

[Loren]

Hi Loren,

Is it necessary to get the repair kit (bolt, expanding spring, securing clip), damping plate, warning contact, etc?

Can I just replace the pads and re-use everything else?

Thanks!

Well it is up to you.

We suggest the dampers but I've heard of folks reusing them - worst case you will have some squeal.

If the sensors turned on the brake pad light then one or more of them will have to be replaced (or jumpered).

You would need to look a the pin and spring to see if they are worn.

[FlashingBlade]

While you have your wheel off, you may as well take a small drill bit and clear all the holes in your rotors. Some of mine were clogged. When you are done, clean off with some brake fluid.

[USS TT]

While you have your wheel off, you may as well take a small drill bit and clear all the holes in your rotors. Some of mine were clogged. When you are done, clean off with some brake fluid.

i don't know that i'd suggest taking a drill bit to your rotors, I usually use a small screwdriver, or my air hose from my compressor, both seem very effective, and relatively safe. although you may have a steadier hand than myself :)

[Lizard1]

I'm doing some preventive maintenance on a newly purchased car for my wife. Pre-purchase inspection indicates the pads are about 50% worn and the rotors have some "grooving" but the note siad it's consistent with the mileage and year - 2003 with 19K miles.

So I'm putting on new red calipers and going ahead and changing the brake pads while I'm at it. Should I change the rotors as well since I'm there or is minor grooving not that big of an issue?

[Loren]

I'm doing some preventive maintenance on a newly purchased car for my wife. Pre-purchase inspection indicates the pads are about 50% worn and the rotors have some "grooving" but the note siad it's consistent with the mileage and year - 2003 with 19K miles.

So I'm putting on new red calipers and going ahead and changing the brake pads while I'm at it. Should I change the rotors as well since I'm there or is minor grooving not that big of an issue?

Measure them with a micrometer and see if they are within spec (26 mm front and 22 mm rear). Also check for radial cracks:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=18082

[delirium]

That tool might work fine - I would just make sure it won't scratch the calipers.

(I must be lazy and cheap - I just push the pistons back using the old pads - :lol: )

i dont get how you pushe the caliper back in w/ the old pad? do you use a screwdriver? how do you get leverage? Or does it go in very easily? on my BMW i use a c-clamp to push it back in, but w/ the 996 it looks like no need to remove the caliper for pad removal?

[Lizard1]

but w/ the 996 it looks like no need to remove the caliper for pad removal?

i've always just removed the caliper then tackled the brake pads. i'm in no rush and it allows you to do a full detail job on the caliper while it's out. just have some small caliber tubing available so you can put it on the end of the brake line and then you can clamp the tubing an inch or so away from the brake line - helps prevent losing all that brake fluid and making a mess

[siddharth]

Important Notes: Pull out brake pads together with the vibration dampers. If this is not possible (depending on wear of the brake pads), use a spatula to detach the vibration dampers from the brake pad plate before removing the pads. In both cases, first set back the brake pads as far as possible with the piston resetting fixture. If necessary, first remove some brake fluid by suction from the brake fluid reservoir.

Can someone explain this more clearly? I've never worked on a caliper before, so am having difficulty visualizing this. Also, what is a "piston resetting fixture" ?

Also, do I have to worry about any caliper piston falling out (how to prevent it?) or bleeding the system? I don't have a pressure pump to bleed the brakes ....

Edited July 3, 2007 by siddharth

[Loren]

All you are doing is pushing the pistons back in (slowly and carefully) so that new pads will fit into the calipers. This action will push brake fluid back into the brake fluid reservoir (in the front trunk) - so you need to be careful that it does not overflow.

Unless you have a bad piston seal there should be no reason to bleed the brakes after a pad change.

Once you are done and ready to drive the car - start the car and press the brake pedal several times to seat the new pads. follow the pad manufactures recommendations for "bedding in" the new pads.

[Guest]

All you are doing is pushing the pistons back in (slowly and carefully) so that new pads will fit into the calipers. This action will push brake fluid back into the brake fluid reservoir (in the front trunk) - so you need to be careful that it does not overflow.

OK, but I'm another guy who's never done fixed caliper brakes before. I always used the big c-clamp to push the inner pistons (the only pistons!) back in. How do you supply leverage on the old pads to force the pistons back in without scratching the nice finish on the calipers?

Jeff

[Loren]

You can just use a rag folded over 4 times or so. Pushing them back in is not that hard. In Greg's picture above he is using the pliers inside so that when he opens the pliers it pushes both pistons back.

[siddharth]

i've always just removed the caliper then tackled the brake pads. i'm in no rush and it allows you to do a full detail job on the caliper while it's out. just have some small caliber tubing available so you can put it on the end of the brake line and then you can clamp the tubing an inch or so away from the brake line - helps prevent losing all that brake fluid and making a mess

Ok, so last night I tried pushing the brake pads away from the caliper so that I can take out the pads and the dampers. I think I was able to push them all the way in but they still won't come out (they are JUST a wee bit longer than the gap.) Since I need to replace my rotors too I'll be taking off the calipers too, so thought I'll take the pads off then. All seemed great but I noticed that Lizard1 mentioned that you should clamp the brake line! I don't want to mess with the hydraulics (more time), so I thought I'd simply take the calipers off the rotors WITHOUT disconnecting the brake line. This is ok, right?

Another thing, what is the size of the allen socket that holds the calipers to the body? I'm talking about the 2 bolts per caliper with a hex shaped depression (allen head). I was about to take off the calipers when I realised I don't have the socket (@#$#).

cheers guys!

[Loren]

take the calipers off the rotors WITHOUT disconnecting the brake line. This is ok, right?

Yes, this is ok. Just be sure to hang them from a wire so that you do not put stress on the brake lines.

[siddharth]

Another thing, what is the size of the allen socket that holds the calipers to the body? I'm talking about the 2 bolts per caliper with a hex shaped depression (allen head). I was about to take off the calipers when I realised I don't have the socket (@#$#).

Ok, this is a 10mm Allen socket. At least for the 1999 C2 996.

Edited July 12, 2007 by siddharth

[gary996]

A couple of important items not covered in the threads,

1) The factory recommends replacing the allen bolts that hold the calipers on when you change out the rotors, not a bad idea and they are only a couple of bucks each. I don't have the part number with me but that won't be a problem if you describe what you want.

2) The torque setting is 65flbs on the allen bolts and 95 on the wheel lugs

3) Be careful with the wear sensors. The cable between one sensors was too short on the factory replacements so it won't fit in the holder clip. I used a high temp. nylon cable tie.

I am in CA and bought everything from Sunset Imports, they were great and helpful, don't forget the bolts, 2 per axle.

Depending on if there are one or two of you, your tools and expertise, it could take 45 to 90 minutes. It's very easy! And doing it yourself (with a friend) is not only fun but can save you hundreds of dollars. Buy smart too.

Enjoy!

[99-996]

Just replaced all 4 (pads) today. If you have any experience with tools, this is a very easy job.

The only thing that I could add would be that even after you reset the pistons (the channel locks work perfect) the vibration dampers are stuck to the old pads and require a bit of careful prying to get them seperated which i found is the only way to get the pads out. After that it is smooth sailing.

To make this a bit more accesable, turn the wheel all the way left to access the left side and vice versa...no way to make the rear easier.

Also, I found that the new wear sensors were a bit loose when securing them to the new pads (outside front in particular). I secured them with some heavy two sided tape.

I found that I only needed front sensors also and that the rear pads still had 30% wear left. Might not be the norm but I could have gotten away with just doing the front. Did the rear anyways.

Was a fun job though...hope this helps!

Erik :thumbup:

[whs]

Didn't see it in the directions, but do you need to disconnect the battery before starting. I know that other cars have airbag issues if you don't disconnect the battery and these cars are so air bag sensitive, I wasn't sure. TIA.

Will

[spaceman spiff]

When doing the rear pads, how do you get the new pad & the dampner in? There does not appear to be enough room to get both in?

TIA,

Mark

[ashleyisagirlsname]

This is the definitive brake pad/ brake rotor DIY page

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/

[crstfr]

Hi All

I have removed all pads and rotors ( used the DIY instructions thanks loren) I plan to replace the pads and rotors with origional parts during the week. I would like to reuse the dampers again what type of adhesive is needed to attached them to the back of the pads.

Thanks

Christopher

99 ocean blue manual cab