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Front Brake Replacement

mudman2
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Loren Member

Loren

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Yeah, I haven't gotten to the Cayenne DIY pages yet.

Here is a quick summation:

The front and rear pads are very similar to the Carrera - remove the pin and pad sensors, pull the pads out.

The rotors are similar also. One screw and tap with a hammer. And for the rear you need to back off the parking brake shoes inside the hub. Again, pretty much like the Carrera - just bigger. Be sure that you don't get the rotors mixed up as they are marked L (left) and R (right).

If you do this and can take some pics that would be great. I'd rather have pics in the DIY than diagrams. Thanks!

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mudman2 Member

mudman2

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Will do Loren, acquiring the parts right now.

Yeah, I haven't gotten to the Cayenne DIY pages yet.

Here is a quick summation:

The front and rear pads are very similar to the Carrera - remove the pin and pad sensors, pull the pads out.

The rotors are similar also. One screw and tap with a hammer. And for the rear you need to back off the parking brake shoes inside the hub. Again, pretty much like the Carrera - just bigger. Be sure that you don't get the rotors mixed up as they are marked L (left) and R (right).

If you do this and can take some pics that would be great. I'd rather have pics in the DIY than diagrams. Thanks!

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skl Member

skl

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I plan on replacing the front pads in a few weeks with some low dust pads as I think some people are finally making them. I assume it shouldn't be much harder than other Porsche or BMW models. I'll try and post something then as my son will help me and he's much better with a digital camera than I am!

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mudman2 Member

mudman2

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Loren

Can you give mean the torque setting for the rotors please, getting ready to do this job. Final prep.

Mike

I plan on replacing the front pads in a few weeks with some low dust pads as I think some people are finally making them. I assume it shouldn't be much harder than other Porsche or BMW models. I'll try and post something then as my son will help me and he's much better with a digital camera than I am!
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Loren Member

Loren

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Brake caliper to front wheel carrier M16 x 1.5 270 Nm (200 ftlb.)

Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier M14 x 1.5 180 Nm (133 ftlb.)

Brake disc to wheel hub (front and rear axles) M12 x 1.5 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.)

Plug rear brake disc 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.)

Brake cover plate to front axle M8 x 12 20 Nm (15 ftlb.)

Brake caliper to rear wheel carrier:

M8 x 16 20 Nm (15 ftlb.)

M6 x 12 8 Nm(6 ftlb.)

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  • 4 weeks later...
mudman2 Member

mudman2

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First, let me say that when I took the pads out the rotor looked fine and although I have slotted drilled rotors to put on I did not see the point in wasting them they will go on next time.

Total elapsed time including jacking, wheel removal and the job itself was 90 minutes

A single bolt hold the pad retaining pin in place, as usual with fluid locked bolts tighten a fraction to break the seal and then remove as normal.

Leave the bolt in couple of turns and tap the end to start the pin on its way through.

I used a broad flat screw driver as a drift to knock the pin through and a mole grip to pull it through. Its a pain to get through I warn you.

Once the pin is out, break the sensor wires , its easier.

Use a driver to lever the pads out.

Removing the old sensor cable was hard so breaking the connector seemed easier. Route the new cable to the connector and behind the little loop on the brake nipple rubber cover.

The sensors clip in with the thick part pad side.

To get the new pads in you will find that depressing one of the pistons is easy, the second ok the third forces out the other 2.

I found the easiest way was to depress the first 2 and then slip the pad in, with the pad bkocking the first 2 depress the third and push the pad into place. Its not hard just fiddly.

You really need three hands to put the pin back through. The best way is to depress the pad retaining spring and tap the pin through, for the last part you will need to push the pin itself into line.

Dont forget to get blue loctite for the pin bolt and brake grease for the back of the pad.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 1 year later...
medtech Member

medtech

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Anyone replaced the rotors / pads yet ? If so can you post the procedure please. Loren I dont know if there is a section in the manual for this, some tips would be usefull.

Mudman,

Do you have a good supplier for the rotors and pads?

A

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mudman2 Member

mudman2

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1 - I use Hawk dustless pads now

2 - very carefully, bend the u clip attached to the strut and squeeze it out then pull it apart while sliding a small flat bladed driver ito the clip

Can you tell me how to disconnect the brake wear sensor wire. I couldn't get this part disconnected and may have broken the connector. Is there some trick to it, Please advise.. thanks.
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mudman2 Member

mudman2

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You can get them anywhere. About $100 for fronts

Anyone replaced the rotors / pads yet ? If so can you post the procedure please. Loren I dont know if there is a section in the manual for this, some tips would be usefull.

Mudman,

Do you have a good supplier for the rotors and pads?

A

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97boxsterred Member

97boxsterred

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2 - very carefully, bend the u clip attached to the strut and squeeze it out then pull it apart while sliding a small flat bladed driver ito the clip

Mudman2:

When looking at the picture of the clip the way it is, Can you tell me do you insert the flat screwdriver from the top or from the bottom of that tab that is facing out.

I tried to lift that tab from the bottom side and even with a good deal of force, the wires did not separate, and the tab eventually broke.

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mudman2 Member

mudman2

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if the tab broke its no sweat really but if its clear of the clip it will pull apart, its tight.

2 - very carefully, bend the u clip attached to the strut and squeeze it out then pull it apart while sliding a small flat bladed driver ito the clip

Mudman2:

When looking at the picture of the clip the way it is, Can you tell me do you insert the flat screwdriver from the top or from the bottom of that tab that is facing out.

I tried to lift that tab from the bottom side and even with a good deal of force, the wires did not separate, and the tab eventually broke.

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97boxsterred Member

97boxsterred

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Hey,

When I removed the pin that holds the brake pads in place, it was extremely difficult and took a long time. I had to hammer and hammer for 10 minutes at least. Seemed like the pins were really jammed in and the front pins were fatter on the ends than in the center, very hard to get out of the hole.

Anyone have this problem?

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mudman2 Member

mudman2

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Thats normal. The first time you do it you don't realise just how hard to hit them.

Hey,

When I removed the pin that holds the brake pads in place, it was extremely difficult and took a long time. I had to hammer and hammer for 10 minutes at least. Seemed like the pins were really jammed in and the front pins were fatter on the ends than in the center, very hard to get out of the hole.

Anyone have this problem?

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  • 2 weeks later...
medtech Member

medtech

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Posted
1 - I use Hawk dustless pads now

2 - very carefully, bend the u clip attached to the strut and squeeze it out then pull it apart while sliding a small flat bladed driver ito the clip

Can you tell me how to disconnect the brake wear sensor wire. I couldn't get this part disconnected and may have broken the connector. Is there some trick to it, Please advise.. thanks.

Ok, found the Hawk dustless at Pap-parts.com

Do you know what size/type the bolt is that holds the rotor on? Is it a Torx?

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  • 2 months later...
mudman2 Member

mudman2

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initially I used OEM but changed to Hawk HBS dustless pad and love them. I just changed my rears to Hawks also. me not likee brake dust

I also changed my front rotors to Zimmerman drilled, they look much better

mudman2 , Thanks for the great DIY

Some question, what brand of pads did you use? OEM?

Tirerack.com have a full range of pads for the cayenne Turbo, do you recommand any of them?

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