RMS DIY?

[Rom]

Hi all,

I *think* I might have the RMS issue - had a little bit of oil on the ground after a 400 mile trip to LA - it took all night for it to happen, and haven't really seen it again... So, basically, I have a couple of questions...

1) How do I verify 100% that it's an RMS issue? I assume if I look around the area where the engine meets the gearbox, there should be a good amount of oil? When this problem occurs, how often does oil drip from it? I've done over 1000 miles, and only seen it once...

2) If it is an RMS issue, I do have some basic warranty cover, but assuming they don't cover it, is there a DIY guide to it? I plan to get VERY up-close-and-personal with the inner workings of the car (I'm very hands-on), and have quite of a lot of projects that I'm waiting to do - but I was just wondering if anyone on here has ever done this themselves...

Thanks!

Shash

[Rom]

Anyone...?? Tool Pants, maybe? ;)

Thanks!

Shash

[adsach]

Wow Shash - we posted simultaneous and your post erased mine.

short recap.

Special RMS tool - picture by tool pants on another link - possibly voids engine warrantee - don't do it.

if you do it anyway:

most of the job is easy - see clutch replacement pinned above

12mm? triple square bolt required to pull flywheel

allow extra hours for removing muffler(non-intuitive bolts)

remove exhaust pipes at the sleeves rearward of the catalytic converter

detatching shift linkage(6-speed) is a mystery I never unravelled.

[Rom]

Thanks AdSach! I was actually just reading that clutch article and came back here to say that I found the info I needed - thanks anyway though!! :)

It actually looks pretty easy... Don't know why OPC's charge so much to do this... I hope they use new parts throughout! ;)

Thanks!

Shash

[Kendall]

Hi all,

I *think* I might have the RMS issue - had a little bit of oil on the ground after a 400 mile trip to LA - it took all night for it to happen, and haven't really seen it again...  So, basically, I have a couple of questions...

1)  How do I verify 100% that it's an RMS issue?  I assume if I look around the area where the engine meets the gearbox, there should be a good amount of oil?  When this problem occurs, how often does oil drip from it?  I've done over 1000 miles, and only seen it once...

2) If it is an RMS issue, I do have some basic warranty cover, but assuming they don't cover it, is there a DIY guide to it?  I plan to get VERY up-close-and-personal with the inner workings of the car (I'm very hands-on), and have quite of a lot of projects that I'm waiting to do - but I was just wondering if anyone on here has ever done this themselves...

Thanks!

Shash

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The easiest way to diagnose is to locate the source. An RMS (includes other bell housing leaks generally called "RMS" leaks) leak is visible where the tranny and case bolt together. Look up between the sway bar and the coolant tube dead center-just in front of where the coolant tube bracket and Torx screw are. If it's not dead center or otherwise not in this immediate area it is probably something else. Do this before you drop the tranny.

[Rom]

Thanks!

The dealer I bought from was Porsche of Oakland (in Northern Cali)... Has anyone got any experience with them? I just spoke to their service department and the earliest they can see me is next Wednesday... As soon as I mentioned 'RMS' to him, he was like.. "ohh, okay, lets get you in next week"...

Thanks!

Shash

[sinbad]

Here is a link for someone who performed rms repair himself.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php

Good luck.

[Rom]

Cool, thanks - very interesting (although it's for a 996 - but the principles are similar)! :)

Shash

[adsach]

Thanks AdSach!  I was actually just reading that clutch article and came back here to say that I found the info I needed - thanks anyway though!! :)

It actually looks pretty easy...  Don't know why OPC's charge so much to do this...  I hope they use new parts throughout! ;)

Thanks!

Shash

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It is pretty easy - except for the things that are hard to figure out. I came away from this job with a real respect for how Porsche put this car together. But it is a mixed respect; removing and replacing the rear bumper cover is easy- removing the muffler is confusing.

The second time I remove the muffler should only take me a few minutes, but my first time took about 1.5 hours. Until I removed the upper support bolts it was very difficult to figure out where the bolts were and which direction they faced. This was AFTER looking at all the photos and reading the relevant threads.

If you are in a wrenching mood, you might just pull the muffler and polish it to a shine just so you won't have to puzzle over how to remove it someday when you are going after the clutch or RMS :D Besides, nothing will put you in the mood to buy an aftermarket muffler quicker than bench pressing the stock muffler a few times.

I used to tinker with American and Italian cars as a teenager - The Boxster is much more satisfying to tinker with.

Enjoy!

[Rom]

Heh, I've worked on Audi TT's, Lotus Elises, Nissan Skylines (GT-R V-Spec), Nissan Pulsar GTI-R's, Nissan 200SX's, Toyota MR-2's, Toyota Supra's, etc, etc, so have plenty of experience with sports cars and engines, although I've never worked on a flat-6 type engine, so I'm sure I'll have some fun - I have lots of plans! :)

Never liked American cars though... Too much power, not enough finesse... And what's the obsession with pushrods all about?? ;)

Thanks!

Shash

[adsach]

Never liked American cars though...  Too much power, not enough finesse...  And what's the obsession with pushrods all about?? ;)

Thanks!

Shash

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Since that the cars I disassembled in my youth were built in the 40s and 50s there really wasn't much of an alternative to pushrods. The earliest car I drove regularly may not have had finesse, but it sure had "powerstyle"

http://www.adclassix.com/ads/56chryslernewyorker.htm

[Rom]

Never liked American cars though...  Too much power, not enough finesse...  And what's the obsession with pushrods all about?? ;)

Thanks!

Shash

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Since that the cars I disassembled in my youth were built in the 40s and 50s there really wasn't much of an alternative to pushrods. The earliest car I drove regularly may not have had finesse, but it sure had "powerstyle"

http://www.adclassix.com/ads/56chryslernewyorker.htm

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Pushrods on cars from the 40's and 50's is fine... What gets me is using the old technology on their latest cars...

Thanks!

Shash

[PTEC]

Yeah pushrod engines use old technology but you cant argue with the results. Drive a car equipped a new chevy small block ls2 and you'll be able to overlook the fact its old technology REAL fast. Ill take my ponies any way i can get them.

Edited October 9, 2005 by PTEC

[Rom]

Hm, yeah, but the excess weight, slower response times, higher CofG (especially compared to a horizontally-opposed type engine), higher fuel consumption (even if you factor in the 'clever' turning off of some cylinders, which has its own drawbacks anyway), etc, outweigh any benefits of sheer grunt, IMHO... Besides, revvy, high-output engines are more fun and far more responsive - I drove around a new Mustang for a few days, and between its annoyingly slow auto-transmission and the lethargic engine, I was ready to scream after a few miles! ;)

Thanks!

Shash

[por911]

There are a couple DIY clutch/rms articles out there:

1. #122 ,Sept. 2003, Excellence Magazine

2. #128 , Nov. 2004, 911 & Porsche World

I'm about to replace our flywheel, clutch kit, updated the rms on our 01 this winter. You'll need a couple special tools , rms installation tool(just ordered today, $250), flywheel lock, crank lock. Forget how much the others are, I've had those for awhile. The above mentioned articles should give you a good sense of what the job entails. The one in , the 911 & Porsche World is quite good except for the fact that its missing the torque spec for the 13mm nut , central on the intermediate shaft seal. The factory workshop manual is also a helpful to place to look if you have one of those handy. :cheers:

[adsach]

Hm, yeah, but the excess weight, slower response times, higher CofG (especially compared to a horizontally-opposed type engine), higher fuel consumption (even if you factor in the 'clever' turning off of some cylinders, which has its own drawbacks anyway), etc, outweigh any benefits of sheer grunt, IMHO...  Besides, revvy, high-output engines are more fun and far more responsive - I drove around a new Mustang for a few days, and between its annoyingly slow auto-transmission and the lethargic engine, I was ready to scream after a few miles! ;)

Thanks!

Shash

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You just got into the wrong kind of Mustang :D

I remember test driving a 2002 5-speed Mustang Cobra convertible and it was a heck of a lot more fun than the 2002 BMW M3 Cabrio. Sure the M3 engine sounded better, but pushrods be damned, things like weight, balance, suspension, and exhaust system seem to make a lot more difference that the shape of the moving parts inside the engine.

:offtopic:

Speaking of pushrods, have you ever driven a Viper? The technology may be old but it shakes and growls like a Harley. You don't need a sub-woofer to get the vibration going. If you like dating fast teenage women, the viper seems like the right car to own.