Wiring Through the Firewall

[efd3]

Getting ready for a couple of DYI hacks on my 04 Boxster S.

1st one is the garage door opener hack. I am replacing one of the blanks in the center console and would like to mount the opener under the hood in case I need to get to it. Two questions. Any recommendations as to where I should take the power from for the remote, and how to run wires through the front “firewall” into the front trunk. The garage remote uses 9V battery, do I need to convert the 12V to 9V? I understand the easiest place to get power for the light in the switch is from an adjacent switch. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

[Tool Pants]

Most people hide the remote behind the switch pod on either side of the radio or under the center console after you remove the ash tray and the holder for the tray. You might as well just use the 9 volt battery since they last a long time with an opener. But, years ago for my truck and my very old Stanley I bought a thing that converts 12 volts to 9 and it is the size of a 9 volt battery.

No clue what would happen if you put 12 volts in a 9 volt device.

Your easy 12 volt source is the cell phone connector below the radio.

If you really want to run wires from the interior of the car to the front trunk then search around here. It is not hard to do but I do not know anyone who has done it for an opener.

[Q-Ship986]

You can route through the firewall by way of a large body filler/grommet located behind the battery. I did this to get wiring to the amplifier in the trunk.

The photo below identifies the area. You'll have to remove the battery to gain working access.

The photo below is an attempt to show the grommet; it is the dark area behind the wires and tubing in the foreground (those particular wires do not pass through--I couldn't get a good shot of the ones that do).

The photo below is a view from the driver's footwell (brake pedal in foreground). The arrow identifies the wiring I passed-through. Also, note the circular outline in the sound-deadening material, about 10 cm diameter around the wiring. This is pre-punched into the fabric; it aligned nearly perfectly with the grommet on my car. Keep the hole punched into the grommet to a minimum size and add a dab of silcone sealant on either side when you're done.

Note that the area between the firewall and the trunk--i.e. where the battery is located--is not weather-proof. Bear that in mind if you are intending to mount the garage opener there.

--Brian

[adsach]

I just put sticky backed velcro on a flat surface behind the switches (center panel next to radio) - matching sticky backed velcro on the remote - and wires from the remote to the new switch.

I haven't had the velcro come loose once in 3 years.

It is about a 15 minute job to change the 9-volt battery - I did it once.

[Q-Ship986]

I re-read the original post and see that you may be intending on getting into the trunk storage enclosure as well. There is at least one large grommet in the body behind the CD-changer. (If you don't have a changer, the area I'm referring to is on the right side--passenger side--of the trunk.) If so equipped, remove the CD-changer and its bracket from the firewall. If memory serves me, there are a few plastic caps that hold the trunk lining in place in this vicinity--remove them and pull the liner away from the firewall. This permits access to the grommet from both sides and enables you to route any wiring.

--Brian

[MNBoxster]

I just put sticky backed velcro on a flat surface behind the switches (center panel next to radio) - matching sticky backed velcro on the remote - and wires from the remote to the new switch.

I haven't had the velcro come loose once in 3 years.

It is about a 15 minute job to change the 9-volt battery - I did it once.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi,

I did a similar Hack, but put the opener in the Center Concole, kept the 9 volt and used Velcro patches too. I used a MO switch and a small LED Indicator light (easy wiring scheme) installed into the Blanking Plug for the Heated Seat Switch (don't have 'em). This way, the switch is within easy reach and I have an indicator light showing the opener is working. It came out looking very good, looks stock, no one notices it (and that's the point).

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[efd3]

Most people hide the remote behind the switch pod on either side of the radio or under the center console after you remove the ash tray and the holder for the tray.  You might as well just use the 9 volt battery since they last a long time with an opener.  But, years ago for my truck and my very old Stanley I bought a thing that converts 12 volts to 9 and it is the size of a 9 volt battery.

No clue what would happen if you put 12 volts in a 9 volt device.

Your easy 12 volt source is the cell phone connector below the radio.

If you really want to run wires from the interior of the car to the front trunk then search around here.  It is not hard to do but I do not know anyone who has done it for an opener.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the info. What color wire is the "cell phone connector", and is it powered all the time? or is it so obvious I should not ask. I am using a power window switch for the hack, I have figured out the switch wiring except for the internal switch light connectors. I figure to take the power from an adjacent switch. What color wires would this be on a 2004 boxster.

[70Sixter]

Thanks for the info. What color wire is the "cell phone connector", and is it powered all the time? or is it so obvious I should not ask. I am using a power window switch for the hack, I have figured out the switch wiring except for the internal switch light connectors. I figure to take the power from an adjacent switch. What color wires would this be on a 2004 boxster.

Might be too late, but just saw this. Pin 1 with red/green wire is 12V+ always hot. Pin 2 green/blk is ignition hot. Pin 3 yellow blk is phone mute. And Pin 4 brown is ground.