V1 Switched Power Hardwire Installation

[1080iAddict]

V1 Switched Power Hardwire Installation

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This thread is a Do-It-Yourself installation tutorial for a V1 (or any powered radar detector) hardwire windshield installation to a switched power source at the interior dome light. It is noted that this installation was performed on a 2006 997S with the Self-Dimming Mirrors option. If you do not have this option, I cannot guarantee you will have the necessary wire harness because the switched power source is the same source that powers the self-dimming rear view mirror. As of this posting, I

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• Author
  1080iAddict
• Category
  Carrera (997-1) - Mods
• Submitted
  09/20/2005 04:53 PM
• Updated
  02/27/2010 03:55 PM

 

[SPR]

Pretty neat. So it owuld seem then that the only real benefit of the telephone box is the remote display routing, but concieveably this too could be wired through the telephone jack as well. Very cool to know that you are not limited by the HUGE size of that module! I think I actually might redo my install. (I tapped off the phone plug in pass. compartment), as the cable running along the pass a pillar sometimes likes to show itself, however I am running the remote display so I would still have a cable running anyways albeit smaller than the phone cable. hmmmm. Nice write up.

[pbahorich]

Be careful when you connect to the power cord that comes with the V1. The color coding is reversed depending on which end of the wire you use. Read "Making your own Power Cord" section of the V1 owners manual (on page 17 of my version). It says "NOTE: The sequence of wires must be reversed from one end to the other." If you face the plug with the contacts toward you and the cord on the bottom, the one just left of center is ground and the one just right of center is power. These are always green and red, but not necessarily in that order; there's an equal chance it will be red and green.

[drex]

Confirmed. No autodimming mirror from factory=missing switched power in the wireharness. The harness is only populated with 5 wires (3 for the rain sensor and 2 for the micro mirror mount interior light). No other area of switched power was identified.

[drex]

ok, after further research.... (for those of us without a power dimming mirror -- useless when you have dark tints installed anyway!)....

one can tap into the harness for the domelight for power. there is a connector that attaches to the dome light that provides both switched power and ground; turning on the lights does not affect V1 operation while driving (map light, etc) despite earlier reports.

the most lateral wire labelled pin 1 supplies *switched* (+) power to the dome light. (it is the first wire on the end of the connector in the pin 1 position)

the fourth wire in the harness from the first supplies ground.

in this configuration, the radar detector powers up upon unlocking the door with the key fob, and remains on until after turning the car off and allowing the lights to dim or using the remote to lock the door. there is about a 20sec delay after locking before the device is switched off.

:drive:

[8SUM8]

Hi

What amperage should the fuse be? I bought an used V1 on ebay and it does not come with the fuse.

Thanks in advance

Felix

[larrytrk]

ok, after further research.... (for those of us without a power dimming mirror -- useless when you have dark tints installed anyway!)....

one can tap into the harness for the domelight for power. there is a connector that attaches to the dome light that provides both switched power and ground; turning on the lights does not affect V1 operation while driving (map light, etc) despite earlier reports.

the most lateral wire labelled pin 1 supplies *switched* (+) power to the dome light. (it is the first wire on the end of the connector in the pin 1 position)

the fourth wire in the harness from the first supplies ground.

in this configuration, the radar detector powers up upon unlocking the door with the key fob, and remains on until after turning the car off and allowing the lights to dim or using the remote to lock the door. there is about a 20sec delay after locking before the device is switched off.

:drive:

Does the voltage decrease to the detector as the lights dim?

Couldn't this possibly cause problems in the long run to the detector?

[drex]

ok, after further research.... (for those of us without a power dimming mirror -- useless when you have dark tints installed anyway!)....

one can tap into the harness for the domelight for power. there is a connector that attaches to the dome light that provides both switched power and ground; turning on the lights does not affect V1 operation while driving (map light, etc) despite earlier reports.

the most lateral wire labelled pin 1 supplies *switched* (+) power to the dome light. (it is the first wire on the end of the connector in the pin 1 position)

the fourth wire in the harness from the first supplies ground.

in this configuration, the radar detector powers up upon unlocking the door with the key fob, and remains on until after turning the car off and allowing the lights to dim or using the remote to lock the door. there is about a 20sec delay after locking before the device is switched off.

:drive:

Does the voltage decrease to the detector as the lights dim?

Couldn't this possibly cause problems in the long run to the detector?

detector shuts off once voltage drops below threshold.

per my understanding, no.

[Uncle Bob]

Thanks 1080i...very helpful and saved me a lot of research. Looks like my weekend project this weekend. Dying to get rid of the cig lighter cord.

[mglobe]

OK, I know this is in the DIY section, so most folks that read this like spending time doing this sort of stuff. ...and I admire you ability to do so. But... for those who either don't like doing stuff like this, or aren't good at it, FWIW I had a local car stereo shop install a hardwire to a switched circuit in the fuse box. Took all of about 1/2 hour for them to do it. It looks great, and I didn't have to futz with stuff and worry about screwing up my car in the process. Oh, and it cost me all of $35

[SVTHorsnake]

Finished mine this past sunday, except I did mine without cutting any Porsche or V1 wiring, and all harnesses clipped back into their factory positions. It cost me an extra $11 and a trip to the local hardware store but looks and works just as well without cutting or disrupting anything factory. I can post instructions if there is interest.

Not to step on any toes. I relied on the information here to do it.

thanks

Edited October 9, 2007 by SVTHorsnake

[dtrounce]

Finished mine this past sunday, except I did mine without cutting any Porsche or V1 wiring, and all harnesses clipped back into their factory positions. It cost me an extra $11 and a trip to the local hardware store but looks and works just as well without cutting or disrupting anything factory. I can post instructions if there is interest.

Not to step on any toes. I relied on the information here to do it.

thanks

I'd be very interested in how you did it without cutting any wiring or soldering. I am leasing my new 2008 997 Turbo Cab, and need to be able to reverse the installation on selling / lease return. Also, any ideas on how to run hardwire power on a 997 with a remote display on top of the steering column? Where would you tap power from - the interior dome light, the center console, or somewhere else?

I previously hardwired my V1 into my 2000 986 Boxster using the V1 direct wire adapter onto a spare audio plug in the center console. I ran two telephone wires - one along the passenger-side console, up the passenger A pillar to the passenger-side sun visor, and the other to the remote display mounted on top of the steering column. I just reversed this after 8 years and it all is back to original.

Edited November 19, 2007 by dtrounce

[nhannguyen]

ok, after further research.... (for those of us without a power dimming mirror -- useless when you have dark tints installed anyway!)....

one can tap into the harness for the domelight for power. there is a connector that attaches to the dome light that provides both switched power and ground; turning on the lights does not affect V1 operation while driving (map light, etc) despite earlier reports.

the most lateral wire labelled pin 1 supplies *switched* (+) power to the dome light. (it is the first wire on the end of the connector in the pin 1 position)

the fourth wire in the harness from the first supplies ground.

in this configuration, the radar detector powers up upon unlocking the door with the key fob, and remains on until after turning the car off and allowing the lights to dim or using the remote to lock the door. there is about a 20sec delay after locking before the device is switched off.

:drive:

How about using the power from the Home Link switch?

[dtrounce]

So I hardwired my Valentine 1 second day of 997 Turbo Cab ownership. There is switched power available from the rain sensor wiring in the dome light (black/orange is switched power; either of the brown wires is ground). I used the V1 hardwire adapter just outside the dome light, and tap connectors from RadioShack inside the dome light housing.

Then, there is a short telephone cable to the V1, which is mounted on suction cups at the top of the windshield on the driver's side of the mirror. I also have a long, completely hidden telephone cable for a remote display on top of the steering column. This goes across the top of the windshield, down the driver's side A-pillar, down the top of the dashboard, and across to the remote display on the steering column. It can be pushed behind the trim with a very small screwdriver so it is completely hidden.

[strong887]

So I hardwired my Valentine 1 second day of 997 Turbo Cab ownership. There is switched power available from the rain sensor wiring in the dome light (black/orange is switched power; either of the brown wires is ground). I used the V1 hardwire adapter just outside the dome light, and tap connectors from RadioShack inside the dome light housing.

Then, there is a short telephone cable to the V1, which is mounted on suction cups at the top of the windshield on the driver's side of the mirror. I also have a long, completely hidden telephone cable for a remote display on top of the steering column. This goes across the top of the windshield, down the driver's side A-pillar, down the top of the dashboard, and across to the remote display on the steering column. It can be pushed behind the trim with a very small screwdriver so it is completely hidden.

Do you have any photos of the installation so i can show it to my installer to duplicate? This sounds like a very clean installation!