Check Engine Light

[mduff]

I just changed the oil filter and swapped out my coolant tank at the same time. Upon start up, oil level read full on the gauge but pressure went almost to the 5. I turned it off and returned about 10 minutes later to repeat the process. At that point after about 2 seconds of running, the check engine light came on flashing.

Any ideas? There were no leaks and everything appears to be tight.

[Loren]

Are you sure that you didn't knock a vacuum hose loose or forget to tighten a clamp? (around the tank)

[mduff]

Just PM'd you Loren. Thanks.

[mduff]

Just went thru both procedures again and all appears tight and secure. The engine light now is solid as opposed to flashing. What does this indicate? The time bomb is getting closer?! :o

[Loren]

Solid is better (as if any CEL is good). Flashing means you should not drive car as there is potential damage to the three way catalytic converter. Solid means you have fault code of something that needs correcting or possibly will correct on it's own (after a number of drive cycles).

[GaryFB]

I just changed the oil filter and swapped out my coolant tank at the same time.  Upon start up, oil level read full on the gauge but pressure went almost to the 5.  I turned it off and returned about 10 minutes later to repeat the process.  At that point after about 2 seconds of running, the check engine light came on flashing. 

Any ideas?  There were no leaks and everything appears to be tight.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you ran the engine with the oil filler cap off, or if the cap did not seal, this could cause the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp - offical SAE term) to turn on. You will have to read the code to be sure. If the problem has been corrected, the MIL will eventually turn off. You would think with all the technology these cars have, there could be an LED screen to display the OBD2 codes.