Bank 1 Actuator \ Soleniod -1998 (P1530 & P1531)

[AK986]

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Hi Guys, I need expert advice on an issue I'm having with CEL P1530 & P1531.

Car Details: 1998 Boxster 2.5L with 38K miles. I just recently purchased it and preciously it was not driven and sat for a while.

Already Done -
* Traced wires from solenoid to DME and ground. All checks out.
* Applied 9V battery - Heard a click
* Opened the DME, and no burned connections

* Liquid Molly Engine Flush - Oil was clean

I'm a bit confused. So, I replaced the connection for the bank 1 solenoid and checked all the connections going back to the DME. The other day, randomly, after putting in gas in the car, the CEL cleared but came back after 20 miles. Then I had the Foxwell scanner and came across a drive link active testing option in which I was able to test the bank one solenoid by sending the signal. The RPM dropped on the car, and it cleared the CEL right away. I drove the car for another 20 miles, and it's back on now. I have tried sending single through the Forwell scanner, and the rpm drops, but the CEL sign is still there. What do you think this could be?  The car drives fine and doesn't drop the rpm..

Could it be the actuator stuck?
Could it be a faulty DME?

[JFP in PA]

P1530 - No triggering of the actuator, in the active position

Possible faults:

 

-Short to ground

-Actuator defective

 

P1531 - Trigger of actuator, no active position

Possible faults:

 

-Open circuit

-Actuator defective

 

Diagnostics: P1530 check triggering wire for short to ground, if none is found, replace actuator

                      P1531 Check for battery power on supply wire, if ok, check triggering wire for continuity; if both ok, replace actuator

 

Because the car has been sitting, I would look closely at the condition of the wiring harnesses.....................

[AK986]

Hi JFP, thank you for your feedback. So, I have traced the wires from the DME to the connectors, and there was continuity. I noticed a wire was stripped on the connector and replaced it. I have the Foxwell scanner, when I scan it with just the ODB selection, it throws P1530, and when I go through the Porsche app icon (same Foxwell Scanner) I get P1531. My last resolution would be to take it to the dealer and replace the actuator. 

 

Another confusion is with the scanner. When I send a signal to Cam bank 1 while idle, the engine drops reps and runs rough.  Will this still lead to a bad actuator? Also, I keep on getting P1126, P1124, P0446.. i have changed the oxygen sensor pre Cat..

 

 

[JFP in PA]

P0446 is the code for a blocked EVAP system purge valve

 

P1124 and 1126 indicates the system is so lean that the DME cannot correct for it, usually a sign of a vacuum leak in the intake system; none of these codes have anything to di with the O2 sensors..........

[AK986]

I just changed the purge valve this weekend and hope the code corrects itself while driving.

 

I have done multiple smoke tests, and everything seems to check out. Do you think it would be the faulty DME? The shifter indicator is all funky on the cluster as well. It lights on P,R, and N and stays in N while I'm in the drive in 3rd gear (it's automatic), a slight light comes on for D and 5th gear. I looked at the multifunction switch and wiring. All seems to be fine.  

 

Going back to the P1531.. you recommend just replacing the actuator at this point?  

Edited August 27 by AK986

[JFP in PA]

8 minutes ago, AK986 said:

I just changed the purge valve this weekend and hope the code corrects itself while driving.

 

I have done multiple smoke tests, and everything seems to check out. Do you think it would be the faulty DME? The shifter indicator is all funky on the cluster as well. It lights on P,R, and N and stays in N while I'm in the drive in 3rd gear (it's automatic), a slight light comes on for D and 5th gear. I looked at the multifunction switch and wiring. All seems to be fine.  

 

Going back to the P1531.. you recommend just replacing the actuator at this point?  

 

No, I recommend doing the diagnostics indicated to see if it really needs to be replaced; we are not fans of randomly replacing parts to see what happens.........

[AK986]

I appreciate all your feedback. What else would you recommend that I can test? The continuity test for both banks came back good, I opened the DME, and no burned chips. I am happy to do more testing, just not sure what else I should do.

[JFP in PA]

As noted above:

 

"

P1531 - Trigger of actuator, no active position

Possible faults:

 

-Open circuit

-Actuator defective

 

Diagnostics: P1530 check triggering wire for short to ground, if none is found, replace actuator

                      P1531 Check for battery power on supply wire, if ok, check triggering wire for continuity; if both ok, replace actuator

 

Because the car has been sitting, I would look closely at the condition of the wiring harnesses....................."

[AK986]

Thanks. I will re-check it.

[AK986]

I checked the cam deviations, and I got the following: 

Cam 1  = -3

Cam 2 = -9 

 

Should I be worried? Is this linked to the actuator issue on bank 1?

 

Thanks!

 

[JFP in PA]

23 minutes ago, AK986 said:

I checked the cam deviations, and I got the following: 

Cam 1  = -3

Cam 2 = -9 

 

Should I be worried? Is this linked to the actuator issue on bank 1?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Yes, but for a different reason:  Cam deviation specs for your five-chain engine are +/- 6 degrees, so you are out of spec.  On your style engine, this is typically caused by severely worn chain pads between the cam shafts:

 

The dark pad has a groove worn into it, while the light pad is a new one.  This is a very common problem with the early Boxster's.

[AK986]

Thanks! Even with the 38K miles. Do you think they would wear that quickly?  

[JFP in PA]

11 minutes ago, AK986 said:

Thanks! Even with the 38K miles. Do you think they would wear that quickly?  

Yes.

[AK986]

Could it be a timing issue as well? 

[JFP in PA]

3 minutes ago, AK986 said:

Could it be a timing issue as well? 

 

Cam deviation values are cam timing values, where the cams are vs. where they should ideally be in relation to the crankshaft.  As these engines are Vario Cam, meaning the cam timing is controlled by the DME to maximize performance, the cam timing changes with RPM.  When you read cam deviation, you are looking how far off ideal:

[AK986]

Thank you so much! This is very helpful. 

 

Yesterday, I drove the car and was checking the cam deviations. Camshaft position 1 deviation was moving at every reading, but the Camshaft position 2 Deviation was stuck at -9 during all the readings. 

 

 

Edited August 29 by AK986

[JFP in PA]

You should be checking cam deviations at idle, but with the engine fully warmed up, like after a short drive.