Brake pedal sticking

[BoxSinit]

I had my car in for service to fix a squeaky clutch pedal (replaced spring). When I got the car back the brake pedal seems to be sticking. I'm not sure if the brake pedal has begun sticking or I'm imagining this because of the new feel of the clutch pedal. Anyone else feel a slight stiffness in rebound of the brake pedal after depressing. If so how do you solve this problem. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

[Loren]

The clutch pedal and brake pedal share the same (axle) shaft so chances are they overtightened it or left a bushing out. I would make them fix it since they screwed it up.

[BoxSinit]

Thank you so much. I really didn't want to go back to this dealer, but I guess I have to. Again, Thanks!

[BoxSinit]

Hey Loren. I just spoke with the service manger. He told me the clutch and brake pedal are not on the same axle shaft. Somehow I don't believe him (or any dealers). Nevertheless, he said bring it in tomorrow morning

[Loren]

They sure look like they share the same pivot shaft to me???

If it wasn't sticking before you took it in then why is it sticking now?

Time for them to own up to their mistake (IMHO).

[BoxSinit]

I know. These guys fouled up on a few things prior to this. I just brought the car back cause I bought the car at this particular dealer. Question for you...Is the clutch spring this diagram? And would the tech have to take off the entire clutch pedal to replace. Thanks!

[Loren]

Is the clutch spring this diagram?

Clutch spring is item 9. There have been at least 2 or 3 (TSB) design changes over the years.

And would the tech have to take off the entire clutch pedal to replace.

Yes and no. If he followed the manual and TSB procedure then they are supposed to disassemble the shaft and check the bushings for wear - and replace them if needed. Then they are supposed to re-assemble it with Optimol grease. Also, according to the TSB there are several modifications that need to be done to fit a newer design clutch spring on an older car. They are to replace the clutch pedal if a 986 423 081 11 spring is used.

[BoxSinit]

Thanks for all the info. Highly appreciated!

[BoxSinit]

You were right Loren. The Tech overtightened it. Problem solved...Thanks.

[Loren]

:cheers:

[BoxSinit]

Hey Loren, just throwing a question out there for you. Recently my car is having trouble with going into first and reverse gear as well as the clutch pedal virbarting on release. I do feel slipping too. I know the answer to this, but I want to be sure. Would any of the work that was done to replace the clutch spring have anything to do with this?

[Loren]

Hmm... any signs of chatter or slipping before the work?

How many miles on the current clutch?

[BoxSinit]

No signs of chatter or slipping at all. I thought I had a lot of life left on this clutch. I'm surprised, it just came out of nowhere. Not gradually, just bad feel all at once. Around 48K on the current clutch.

[BoxSinit]

I thought maybe the clutch had been contaminated from an RMS, since it happen so suddenly. It happen to me before.

[BoxSinit]

Loren I need a bit of guidance. Spoke to the assistant at the service desk; she told me I need a complete clutch, $1400 (after a test drive from the service tech). The car has not been taken apart. My question is, how do you know exactly what is going on when it hasn't been disassembled??? She told me that Porsche just replaces the complete clutch. I'm not buying that. Mind you the service manger (who also is the head technician) is on vacation. I have rapport with this man, and pretty much explains everything to me in detail and I assume makes the final decision in the situation. Very fair guy. Actually the assistant tried to charge me an hr of labor for diagnosing a problem (starter) in another service apt. and he overruled it, because this is covered under warranty. Plus the fact there's a guy filling in for him with a Honda shirt (I guess this dealer owns other dealers). Should I wait for the service manger to come back on Monday to break down the car and handle this situation?? Sorry for the long newbie questions; I'm just unsure. If any one has any input, please replay. Thanks for your time.

[Loren]

Well, since you have a trust relationship with the service manager I think it makes sense to wait for him. I would also ask for an itemized quote up front.

Usually in a case where the clutch is "worn out" you would replace the clutch disc, the pressure plate (if it showed signs of scoring, or weak or broken springs), and perhaps the throw out bearing. In a few rare cases the flywheel could be damaged too.

If the clutch is just covered in oil (as in a bad RMS leak) you would likely replace the clutch disc and clean and inspect the other parts.

Since it is a lot of work to remove the transmission it is wise to replace any questionable parts (IMHO).

[BoxSinit]

I pretty much knew what you stated. I just needed reinforcement. I called back and the assistant retracted from everything she said. Let me add, it doesn't hurt to wait to Monday because I'm still waiting for my cat(s) (on order) and the rear CV joint boots are going to be replaced. So it makes since to do it all at once in regard to labor cost. Thanks for all your help and responses. I will be making a contribution when I get a chance. Great site. :cheers:

[BoxSinit]

Bad news. Service manager say flywheel is glazed?!?! Need clutch and flywheel..Intially said $2500 with labor. He said he would check with parts manager to see if he could knock some off. Looks like I'll check with Sunset for parts. :( :(

[BoxSinit]

How much labor time would I job like this take?