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Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Adjusting the Hood Latch Mechanism


Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This

 

Edited by Loren
Posted
Any DIY'er notes for adjusting the latch on the trunk (bonnet)?  When I "pop" the trunk via the release inside the vehicle it does not raise itself up anymore.  Any suggestion on how to adjust this to its former glory?

If I pry my fingers in the gap I can lift the trunk-lid up enough to use the release (as normal), but its a PITA doing so...

Thanks!

Tim

Amen! Mine has the same problem and despite my attempts at adjusting it, there hasn't been any significant improvement. I've adjusted both the latch mechanism itself and the small rubber bumpers on the hood. A TSB would be *wonderful*. :help:

Posted

Tim,

what year is it? I have a 99 and went through the same this past winter. Got a new part at the dealer and replaced it. They told me they keep lots of them in stock, very common problem with the spring that is coiled in there. It is a very easy swap.

Once I took off the old one and fiddle with it, was able to bend the spring back to a very strong snap. So probably won't be swaping it again but reusing the old one next time. Good luck

Izzy

Posted (edited)
Tim,

what year is it?  I have a 99 and went through the same this past winter.  Got a new part at the dealer and replaced it.  They told me they keep lots of them in stock, very common problem with the spring that is coiled in there.  It is a very easy swap.

Once I took off the old one and fiddle with it, was able to bend the spring back to a very strong snap.  So probably won't be swaping it again but reusing the old one next time.  Good luck

Izzy

Thanks for the heads-up Izzy. Mine is a 99' model and maybe it has just worn out as you suggest?? This weekend I will fiddle around and see what I find out and post the results.

Thanks again!

Tim

Edited by tsweat
Posted

Thanks tsweat. I wish the pics were a bit better but I think they're pretty good for a Treo 650's camera. I really liked the write on photo feature too.

I'd suggest you get some white lithium grease if you don't have some already. Don't need too much, just enough to insure that it doesn't corrode and has some lubrication.

Posted

It still amazes me how many people could have the same problem. I was going to try and just replace the part but now thanks to you guys, I will fix it.

Quick question? Did you guys have problems clsoign your hood as well? Not only does mine not pop up but it has a heck of a time closing.

Thanks

Posted

Another thing to try is to adjust the rubber bumpers that are near the front edges of the hood. Believe it or not, they are threaded and are made to be adjustable. Unscrew them a little bit and they will push up on the hood. That solved the problem for me and it doesn't involve any tools.

Posted
It still amazes me how many people could have the same problem.  I was going to try and just replace the part but now thanks to you guys, I will fix it.

Quick question?  Did you guys have problems clsoign your hood as well?  Not only does mine not pop up but it has a heck of a time closing.

Thanks

A lot of people are having this problem because they chose to cut corners and use a cheap metal for the spring and it doesn't last...

Oh well. By the way, if you are having trouble closing yours, it's a simple solution. You have the latch mechanism mis-aligned. Your catch is rubbing on the sides of the slots in the latch. Just loosen the 2 screws under the carpet cover and move the latch to the left or right and up or down as needed. You can use a flashlight and look how it will align when it's almost closed.

I just the did the repair above on my 2003. Here were my experiences:

1) I did have the steal plate. It's a non factor to remove and replace, just make sure you don't pinch the electric wires when you re-install.

2) I could not find a way to completely remove the latch because I have 3 cables, not 2, and the electrical wire holding it. Two of the cables pop out, but the other one does not come out on the latch end. You would have to find out where the other end of the cable goes to thread it back. But alas, you can do all of this inspection and adjustment without completely removing the latch.

3) My spring was not out of it's hole. So I just used a pair of pliers to violently bend the spring backwards to give it more tension.

4) Like I said above, the alignment of the latch is super critical. If it rubs, you won't get that little spring to push up against the rubbing.

Now my hood pops up to the point where it's easy to get to the latch. It doesn't pop up as much as it could, but it's enough. And since I bought the car with this problem, I don't know how high it should really pop up. But I am happy now.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

UPDATE

WOW, what a difference this made. When I bought my car 2-1/2 years ago, the bonnet (trunk lid) popped up as I thought it should. Slowly over time it got worse until it would not work anymore and even triggered the alarm 'beep' fault. Today I finally got around to using Viper's tutorial and was amazed with the level of success. Not only did I save myself the time and money of going to the dealer, but the trunk lid now pops up with authority and a good two inches higher than it did when I bought the car.

Thanks again to all who helped me out on this one!!!

Bravo!!! :clapping:

-Tim

Posted

I just did this today and found that a combination of the rubber plugs and adjustment of the latch module allowed my front trunk to close alot easier.

Also one more note in regards to Viper's excellent write-up. I found the microswitch to be held in by two plastic tabs.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
I just did this today and found that a combination of the rubber plugs and adjustment of the latch module allowed my front trunk to close alot easier.

Also one more note in regards to Viper's excellent write-up. I found the microswitch to be held in by two plastic tabs.

This board is Awesome! Thanks Viper for the excellent write up. I also have a 99 and have had a problem with the hood latch not work as well, after pulling the lever and hearing a very faint pop I had to stick my fingers between the hood and fender to get the hood up. I followed Vipers directions and I not only got the hood latch to work but now the light in the front trunk lights again!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Okay, does this work for the engine cover too? I just bought a 1999 C2 and the rear engine cover will not release unless someone is lifting on it while the handle next to the seat is pulled up at the same time. I would love to be able to open the engine cover without needing two people! ;)

David

Posted

Reborn996, I'm not sure. I've never looked at that problem, yet. :) It is definitely worth looking at. It could also need the striker adjusted a little.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

THIS WAS GREAT!!!

I went to the stealer and told them what I was looking for and they said we have "never seen that problem" well I went to there lobby with my laptop and broadband card and found out I could fix it for "FREE" so I told others about this website and how it helped me before I left. 3 wrote down the website so the dealer will lose eventually. It took all of 20 minutes and with new adjustments it now closes with ease.

THANKS AGAIN.

Todd

Cypress Texas

Posted

Dogone it....I went out and bought a replacment latch from a wrecked 996....AND THEN I saw this DIY....Well, if nothing else, I have an extra latch AND the non-e mechanical release cable.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

:renntech: just to add to everyone's praise....

i did the repair as outlined, making sure that i took time to align the mechanism once re-installed. There is some play to make sure you get the spacing nice and even. THANKS FOR THE POST!! worked great

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

I don't know how I missed this posting when I was looking earlier -- I have EXACTLY the same symptoms. I ordered a new cable (cheap) but then realized that mine doesn't appear to be broken...

I will be following these directions immediately.

Update 2/9/2008.

Followed the process as described and it worked perfectly.

Edited by latestart
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Had to repair mine today.

The cable end at the lever had pulled the loop out of the metal so all I had to do was rebend the loop and reattach it to the lever. It's suprising that the metal that is clamped to the cable is so soft.

I also took apart the latch and added some more bend to the spring since it was just a bit too loose. It still 'feels' tough to pull the lever no matter how much adusting I did with the latch and with some lube. I'm sure if will fail again at some point.

I also found that the forward most bolts on my front Cross coil overs were holding the plastic covers (over the pollen filter and other side) up a bit and it is rubbing the bottom of the bonnet hood. For now I just removed both covers and the battery cover to give the hood more room. I hope the bolts aren't hitting the hood! Not sure there is much I can do with it though. I'll have to take some picktures and post them to see if anyone else with the Cross suspension is having this issue.

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

Great Write up. I have one short modification. I did not even take the latch out of its location. I lubed the spring right in place since it was clearly visible. Then just tightened the two bolts, checked to make sure I did not forget anything. Took about 10 minutes. Hood shuts perfectly now and the spring is lubed. I might even spray it again in a couple of days just for overkill.

Thanks once again

BTW, anyone know the part number to just the red plastic cover on the latch? I thougt I'd replace it since it is looking a little faded.

Edited by my996
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a new latch and cable release that I bought before my 99 996 caught fire and was totalled....so if you need a complete setup which includes the micro switch (that' $65 by itself), I'll let the whole thing go for $75 for the whole setup of latch, micro switch, and cable release. I now have a 02TT and this is a manual release mechanism for a 99.....this will NOT WORK in the 00 or 01 models....they went to the electric releases.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I just bought a 2001 911 and when i shut the hood, i have to really slam it hard, the previous owner told me i have to hold the hood about one foot above and slam the hood down with my palm on the emblem to make it shut, is this how all the 911's are? And/or will this DIY fix this problem if it is not suppose to be like that?

Thanks for your help

  • Admin
Posted
I just bought a 2001 911 and when i shut the hood, i have to really slam it hard, the previous owner told me i have to hold the hood about one foot above and slam the hood down with my palm on the emblem to make it shut, is this how all the 911's are? And/or will this DIY fix this problem if it is not suppose to be like that?

Thanks for your help

Yes, this DIY can fix the problem -- unless the latch is bent.

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