Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

Late last week the Check Engine light & message lit up on the dashboard of my 2007 Boxster (base 2.7, 5-speed manual, 99k miles). This was a surprise, as I hadn't perceived any issues at all with how the car was running. I read and cleared the codes in Durametric to see if they'd come back: P2189 (x2) and P2187 (x2).

 

Sure enough, after some spirited driving, the CEL came back. This time, I noticed that my engine seemed a little rougher at idle, and that when I went to neutral and rolled to a stop, my RPMs tended to "surge" into 1k+ territory for a bit. Checked again, and the same codes are present in Durametric. I saved the freeze frame data, which is attached. I am a little puzzled because the fuel trims look fine(?), but I suspect I'm misreading somewhere and/or the freeze frames don't tell the full story. The car does smoke a little on startup, but I understand that to be typical for these cars, especially at this age and mileage.

 

For background, I did do a lot of work on the car (clutch, flywheel, transmission fluid, AOS) less than 1k miles ago.

 

Everything I've read is suggesting some sort of vacuum leak somewhere -- i.e., engine taking in more air than it's supposed to be. I did check my oil cap, which seemed fine. When I tried to remove the cap with the engine running, I got only a bit of resistance and the engine ran rougher, so I don't believe I have a ton of negative crankcase pressure or anything like that (I do have a new AOS after all, although I suppose another possibility is that I installed it incorrectly, leading to an air leak).

 

Is there anything left to do here before having to take it to a shop and get the intake smoke tested? Thanks.

 

freeze frames.pdf

Edited by Far M
  • Moderators
Posted

Both codes point to a vacuum leak at idle:

 

P2187 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 (RKAT1) - Above Limit
P2189 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2(RKAT1) - Above Limit
Possible fault cause
- Incorrect main charge signal
- Intake air system leaking
- Fuel pressure too low
- Volume supply of fuel pump too low
- Mechanical fault in injection valves
- PCV valve leaks
- Cap of oil filler neck leaking
- Leaks in exhaust system
- EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open)
- EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults

 

As you replaced the AOS, I would start by checking the oil cap vacuum at idle:

 

 

  • M96 & M97 Nominal crankcase vacuum is -5.0" (-4.0"  to  -6.0") of H2O (not HG).
  • MA1 Nominal crankcase vacuum is -15.0" (-14.0"  to  -16.0") of H2O (not HG).
Posted
1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

Both codes point to a vacuum leak at idle:

 

P2187 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 (RKAT1) - Above Limit
P2189 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2(RKAT1) - Above Limit
Possible fault cause
- Incorrect main charge signal
- Intake air system leaking
- Fuel pressure too low
- Volume supply of fuel pump too low
- Mechanical fault in injection valves
- PCV valve leaks
- Cap of oil filler neck leaking
- Leaks in exhaust system
- EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open)
- EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults

 

As you replaced the AOS, I would start by checking the oil cap vacuum at idle:

 

 

  • M96 & M97 Nominal crankcase vacuum is -5.0" (-4.0"  to  -6.0") of H2O (not HG).
  • MA1 Nominal crankcase vacuum is -15.0" (-14.0"  to  -16.0") of H2O (not HG).


Thank you sir. I unfortunately do not have a manometer, so I may just have to take it to a shop. Sigh…

  • Moderators
Posted

spacer.png

A quality digital manometer can be found on Amazon for less than $40, and is an excellent addition to any toolbox.  A short length of hose, a barb fitting (Amazon), and a spare or used oil cap and you are in business.  With all the AOS problems these cars have, long term it will save you $.

  • Upvote 1
Posted (edited)

^THIS

 

Gotten tons of good advice from JFP over the years but this is one of the best bits.  Super useful to have for a Porsche engine, or really any engine and especially the newer DFI engines that run higher vacuum spec levels.  All you have to know is the spec vacuum for your engines....

 

I built this exactly like JFP says to help a friend track down an oil consumption issue and to show folks in the Audi community that a PCV is doing more than regulating crankcase vacuum (it has several non-return valves and a combi valve which can fail, which can lead to increased crankcase pressure and routing too much blow-by into the turbo).

 

Keeping an eye on your crankcase vacuum is very easy to do, taking literally under 1 minute 

IMG_7354.JPG

IMG_7358.JPG

Edited by Silver_TT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.