IMS or RMS leak

[vza]

Hi all, Pulled my trans off 08 Boxster (you can do it without removing the muffler!!) and got at my RMS which I suspected was leaking now I'm not sure. There is some residue at the bottom of the RMS seal but tons of what appears to be grease around the IMS cover. I imagine the best thing to do is the RMS and a new IMS cover and gasket. Also... pulled my Flywheel off, did the test where you move it in both directions and see if it springs back. Well it definitely moves both ways 1/2 inch or so but does not spring back at all. There were no clutch issues. The car only has 42,000 miles on it seems premature for a FW to go. What say all. Thanks V pics

Edited February 26, 2022 by vza

[JFP in PA]

Dead dual mass flywheel, leaking IMS cover.  I do not think Porsche sells the IMS cover flange seal by itself, only on a new cover; and a dead dual mass is not uncommon with an oil leak inside the bellhousing.

[vza]

Oh ok ..so the oil caused the flywheel to fail. Thanks for the response.

 

[JFP in PA]

Oil degrades the elastomer in between the dual masses of the flywheel. 

[vza]

So I cleaned up the crank shaft and IMS cover area and locked the cams on Bank 1, prepping to replace the RMS and IMS seal (porsche does sell the IMS seal separate). Few questions:

LN Engineering says to pull all 3 tensioners (when replacing the bearing) is it necessary to pull all 3? Why do you have to pull any of them when I'm only removing the flange cover for the IMS(just curious). Should I replace the 2 bolts that hold the engine block halves together while I'm in there? Also, took quite a while getting the locking tool to bolt down (had to grind a bit of the shoulder off the tool cause it wasn't allowing it to be seated in the top cam,and the hole wasn't aligned). After getting the bottom in the cam slot I had to pull the locking pin out of the TDC hole and wiggle the tool a bit then tap it in to the top groove of the cam....then replace the locking pin in the TDC hole.  It all looks good. TDC pin in place and both blades of the locking tool well seated in the cam grooves and bolted down. Hope I didn't cause any weird problem for myself. Thanks again for getting back and answering my questions, renntech has been a great resource. V

 

Edited March 1, 2022 by vza

[JFP in PA]

You need to remove the tensioners for a very simple reason: If you do not, and try to pull the IMS flange cover off, the IMS shaft (which is still under considerable tension load) will jump upwards and to the right, often jumping time in the process.  Even if it does not jump time, you will not be able to reinstall the flange cover because of the IMS shaft position.  Not removing the tensioners is one of the things that get people in trouble.

 

We do not replace the engine case bolts unless the look problematic (seeping).

[vza]

Some questions. I only removed the 2 tensioners on the flywheel side. The 3rd was in the front buried under the AC compressor. Ims cover came off and went in without a hitch...was this procedure ok? Got lazy and didn't want to pull the compressor. LN engineering says to put locktite wicking to the center threads not sure what that is. Do they mean blue or red or another type? Also...the center bolt turned while trying to get the nut off (flat blade slipped a few times.) I assume that's ok. Thanks v

Edited March 5, 2022 by vza

[JFP in PA]

38 minutes ago, vza said:

Some questions. I only removed the 2 tensioners on the flywheel side. The 3rd was in the front buried under the AC compressor. Ims cover came off and went in without a hitch...was this procedure ok? Got lazy and didn't want to pull the compressor. LN engineering says to put locktite wicking to the center threads not sure what that is. Do they mean blue or red or another type? Also...the center bolt turned while trying to get the nut off (flat blade slipped a few times.) I assume that's ok. Thanks v

 

You should be fine with just the two on the flywheel end of the engine.  Wicking Loctite is a special product, green in color, and is highly recommended as it not only locks the center bolt nut, but totally stops oil walking down the bolt threads onto your clutch and flywheel, but note that the center bolt threads, and the nut need to be cleaned with brake cleaner or other solvent before assembly and application of the 290:

 

And for future reference, the tensioner under the AC can be removed with either an open-end wrench or a crow's foot; there is just enough room to get it out without moving anything. 😉

[vza]

Thanks for the response.....somehow that 3rd tensioner had a hex fitting. Make any sense?? V

[JFP in PA]

17 hours ago, vza said:

Thanks for the response.....somehow that 3rd tensioner had a hex fitting. Make any sense?? V

 

VW changed design, and it carried over to the 987, can still be removed and looks like this:

 

[vza]

Yup...that's it...took a while to find...was looking for the hex bolt.

[vza]

Well ....some more questions:

The throw out bearing and the arm pictured is correct? Goes on the spindle facing out as shown.(I'm almost certain but wanted to double check.)

Also...What is the IMS torque value on the center bolt/nut... LN Engineering says 7.5 FT LBS. seems light to me Pelican says 24 Ft.Lbs also If I have to re-torque it to 25 do I have to remove the nut...clean it and re-apply the curil T and the Locktite?

Edited March 7, 2022 by vza

[vza]

Also(sorry couldn't fir 2 pix in one post)....

When removing the guide tube this metal washer flopped out exposing ball bearings and dripping some trans fluid. Does it just rest behind the guide tube?

What are the torque values for the guide tube bolts(3) I found 26 Ft Lbs ......

What kind of lube on the guide tube, shaft and pivot if any?

Thanks Again...V

Edited March 8, 2022 by vza

[JFP in PA]

15 hours ago, vza said:

Well ....some more questions:

The throw out bearing and the arm pictured is correct? Goes on the spindle facing out as shown.(I'm almost certain but wanted to double check.)

Also...What is the IMS torque value on the center bolt/nut... LN Engineering says 7.5 FT LBS. seems light to me Pelican says 24 Ft.Lbs also If I have to re-torque it to 25 do I have to remove the nut...clean it and re-apply the curil T and the Locktite?

 

Throw out bearing looks correct.

 

There are multiple IMS center bolt torque specs because there are different center bolts (sizes, grades, and unique undercut machining, etc.).  As yours is a 2008 with the oversized bearing with a 22MM center bolt nut, torque spec is 14 ft. lb.

[JFP in PA]

16 hours ago, vza said:

Also(sorry couldn't fir 2 pix in one post)....

When removing the guide tube this metal washer flopped out exposing ball bearings and dripping some trans fluid. Does it just rest behind the guide tube?

What are the torque values for the guide tube bolts(3) I found 26 Ft Lbs ......

What kind of lube on the guide tube, shaft and pivot if any?

Thanks Again...V

 

The release bearing guide bolts should torque to 18 ft. lbs.  The flat washer is a combination oil slinger to keep gear oil in the front bearing from walking out the release tube, and it serves as a spacer.  As for the correct lubricant, Porsche specs a product you won't be able to find in this country, so I would use Sachs high-performance grease, which sells for less than $10 for a tube. Just don't go nuts applying it, a thin coating is all that is needed.

[Silver_TT]

Just out of curiosity, what is the spec lubricant that can't be purchased in the USA?

[JFP in PA]

It is a fully synthetic EP3 type grease.  The Sachs product I mentioned is a duplicate product that is available domestically at reasonable prices, and a single tube could last you a lifetime. 😉

[Silver_TT]

Awesome.  Thank you for the information as always.

[vza]

Ok...So that spacer just rests behind the guide tube. Where do I apply lube ....thin coat on guide tube and on splines? Thanks for helping JFP.

[JFP in PA]

On both the guide tube and the splines, but again, sparingly 😉

[vza]

Forgot..do I need to remove the center nut for IMS and reapply curil and locktite or just torque it down. I torqued to 7.5 already. Spacer just rests behind guide tube. Correct?

Edited March 8, 2022 by vza

[JFP in PA]

The spacer just sits there.

 

The Curil goes on first, then a dab of blue (medium Loctite) on the center bolt closest to the bearing (so the nut fines it when it gets there), torque it, then the wicking Loctite last.  A lot of shops just use the wicking stuff only, and have not encountered problems, but the use of both is a "belt and suspenders" approach.

[vza]

Ok but the nut is on and torqued to 7.5 already so should I remove it and do all the adhesives over again or just torque it down to 14 without redoing it all. Washer just sits behind guide tube? Thanks 

Edited March 8, 2022 by vza

[JFP in PA]

If you just torque to down to a higher value, both Curil and Loctite are toast, you need to remove the nut, clean it and the center bolt threads, and then start over.

[vza]

Ok...thanks...how about that washer behind the guide tube...sorry I only want to pull the tranny once