Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

 

I've got a 2008 997 C4 w/ 56k miles on it. It was cold this morning (30 degrees F) and I noticed clutch slip for the first time since I bought the car in higher gears under full throttle. The clutch pedal feels very mushy and lost alot of its spring on the return. I stopped by my local shop and he confirmed its the clutch.

 

The car is my daily driver but I do autocross about once a month and intend to track in the future. I told myself I'd get the light weight flywheel when its time to replace the clutch, and so it seems that time has come. I'm not adverse to the extra noise of the LWFW, but I've heard that you shouldn't do this mod on a C4. I see sharkwerks has a C4 project car with the LWFW so I assume it worked out, but who knows.

 

Aside from the flywheel obviously I need a clutch. I've been looking at the Sachs stage 2.5 performance clutch kit, and it seems like a good option. I've also heard that the BBI clutch slave cylinder is an upgrade that would be helpful for clutch performance and feel.

 

Questions:

-Anyone have any experience with a LWFW on a C4?

-Anyone have any experience with the Sach's stage 2.5 kit on a C4?

-Any other clutch kit recommendations?

-Anyone have any experience with replacing the clutch slave cylinder?

 

Note: I'm going to get my IMS bearing inspected but if its not leaking I think I'm going to pass, seeing how I have 56k miles on it with no issues. Perhaps its past the infant mortality stage?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

  • Moderators
Posted
32 minutes ago, Jimbowne said:

Hello all,

 

I've got a 2008 997 C4 w/ 56k miles on it. It was cold this morning (30 degrees F) and I noticed clutch slip for the first time since I bought the car in higher gears under full throttle. The clutch pedal feels very mushy and lost alot of its spring on the return. I stopped by my local shop and he confirmed its the clutch.

 

The car is my daily driver but I do autocross about once a month and intend to track in the future. I told myself I'd get the light weight flywheel when its time to replace the clutch, and so it seems that time has come. I'm not adverse to the extra noise of the LWFW, but I've heard that you shouldn't do this mod on a C4. I see sharkwerks has a C4 project car with the LWFW so I assume it worked out, but who knows.

 

Aside from the flywheel obviously I need a clutch. I've been looking at the Sachs stage 2.5 performance clutch kit, and it seems like a good option. I've also heard that the BBI clutch slave cylinder is an upgrade that would be helpful for clutch performance and feel.

 

Questions:

-Anyone have any experience with a LWFW on a C4?

-Anyone have any experience with the Sach's stage 2.5 kit on a C4?

-Any other clutch kit recommendations?

-Anyone have any experience with replacing the clutch slave cylinder?

 

Note: I'm going to get my IMS bearing inspected but if its not leaking I think I'm going to pass, seeing how I have 56k miles on it with no issues. Perhaps its past the infant mortality stage?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

 

I would stay away from the single mass flywheel for several reasons.  Noise and chatter are problematic on the street, and both Porsche an a renowned Porsche engine builder had recommended against using them unless the engine's rotating mass and the single mass are dynamically balanced together. People tend to forget the dual mass is the ONLY harmonic dampening device in the rotating mass, removing capability that can take you to places you don't want to be.

 

The upgraded clutch is also a toss up.  For heavy track use, it may have the advantage, on the street, not so much.  We have had customers run factory and replacement factory units with excellent street drivability and very long lives.

 

The BBI slave is another questionable.  Yes it changes the clutch pedal feel, but installations have be problem prone, including premature failures which the manufacturer continues to write off as due to the wrong fluid being used.  But multiple cases have shown that to not be correct.

 

As for your IMS bearing, while they are inspecting it, have them remove the rear seal so it can mist lubricate.  We have many running this way with no problems.

  • Moderators
Posted
2 hours ago, CarreraLicious said:

It’s a 2008, so it should have the larger bearing...is it possible to inspect the IMS without splitting the case? 

 

You can see it and feel if it has a too much play, but that is about it.  You can use a pick to remove the rear seal which is highly recommended.  You MUST however prep the engine as though you were removing it (locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.) before pulling the rear flange to have a peek.

Posted
7 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

You can see it and feel if it has a too much play, but that is about it.  You can use a pick to remove the rear seal which is highly recommended.  You MUST however prep the engine as though you were removing it (locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.) before pulling the rear flange to have a peek.


Good to know. Thanks! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.