Cayenne keeps cranking have to twist key back to stop

[roberta berks]

Will not start.Cranks faster than usual and key sticks in ignition cranking without touching it after turning key and then letting go of key.Car sits for months at a time on a battery tender.Ran fine before this issue.Pulled fuel pump fuse to start the secondary pump first, still same issue.Any help here would be appreciated greatly!

[RFM]

This is normal Cayenne behavior, once the key has been brought into crank position it can be released, either the engine starts immediately or the starter motor will stop on a timer (appr. 5-6 sec.) without holding the key. A faster starting speed on engines in good condition, indicates compression loss in general, after a longer standstill as 6 month and more, valve pollution is usually the cause. This can not always be determined with a compression measurement, a cylinder leak test is more appropriate.

[roberta berks]

9 hours ago, RFM said:

This is normal Cayenne behavior, once the key has been brought into crank position it can be released, either the engine starts immediately or the starter motor will stop on a timer (appr. 5-6 sec.) without holding the key. A faster starting speed on engines in good condition, indicates compression loss in general, after a longer standstill as 6 month and more, valve pollution is usually the cause. This can not always be determined with a compression measurement, a cylinder leak test is more appropriate.

Thanks.The key sticks and cranks without me holding the key which Ive never seen before.The car has only 45k miles.Ran strong before this.Now fast crank without start.I don't have special testers,what do you suggest I start with that makes sense?Would an alarm or kessy module problem relate to this fast no compression crank?

[RFM]

Electronics have nothing to do with higher crank speed, only a compression problem or the use of a starting aid powered with higher than the usual 12/14 volt can cause this phenomenon IMO. In that case you have a serious problem with the electronic components, at least i hope not. 

[roberta berks]

2 hours ago, RFM said:

Electronics have nothing to do with higher crank speed, only a compression problem or the use of a starting aid powered with higher than the usual 12/14 volt can cause this phenomenon IMO. In that case you have a serious problem with the electronic components, at least i hope not. 

Yes I did replace some electronic modules already that were corroded from the humidity here.Which is why Im leaning towards something electrical again that may cause this non communication to start car with the fast crank.I don't see how a strong motor with 45k miles can all of a sudden have a valve issue or something more mechanical.Something electric not connecting all the dots and shutting something down?

[JFP in PA]

27 minutes ago, roberta berks said:

Yes I did replace some electronic modules already that were corroded from the humidity here.Which is why Im leaning towards something electrical again that may cause this non communication to start car with the fast crank.I don't see how a strong motor with 45k miles can all of a sudden have a valve issue or something more mechanical.Something electric not connecting all the dots and shutting something down?

 

Quick way to find out is to run a compression test...….

[roberta berks]

2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Quick way to find out is to run a compression test...….

I cant get the engine warm to get a proper test if it will not start? Also it sure sounds like a fast spinning no compression engine but the question is what electrical components/modules not working properly would create this fast spin?

Edited October 17, 2019 by roberta berks

[JFP in PA]

2 hours ago, roberta berks said:

I cant get the engine warm to get a proper test if it will not start? Also it sure sounds like a fast spinning no compression engine but the question is what electrical components/modules not working properly would create this fast spin?

 

It doesn't have to be hot to get some idea of the compression, and I know of no electrical/electronic systems that would do this, it sounds mechanical...…………...

[roberta berks]

44 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

 

It doesn't have to be hot to get some idea of the compression, and I know of no electrical/electronic systems that would do this, it sounds mechanical...…………...

Sure thanks.I thought that too.Read Pelican Parts website explaining car needs to be warmed up first for proper readings...But I still am leaning towards a gremlin electrical connector.Ive had plenty of them on this car.Would PSM warning light on before this ultimately shut down the vehicle for dealer mode?

[JFP in PA]

22 minutes ago, roberta berks said:

Sure thanks.I thought that too.Read Pelican Parts website explaining car needs to be warmed up first for proper readings...But I still am leaning towards a gremlin electrical connector.Ive had plenty of them on this car.Would PSM warning light on before this ultimately shut down the vehicle for dealer mode?

 

Not likely.

[roberta berks]

3 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Not likely.

Sure...I should mention this fast crank no start problem has happened before.But I let the car sit an hour came back and starts up and runs great no knocks pings backfires etc..which is why  I'm leaning towards electrical?Any thoughts are appreciated..(i have no leaking water issues in foot well and have checked the wiring down there both sides)

Edited October 18, 2019 by roberta berks