What gauge wiring to use to extend switches?

[Andrew911]

Apologies if this is a dumb question, but I am working on a GT3 console delete and am needing to extend the controls for the roof and sunshade to the rear center console blanks.  What gauge wiring would I use to extend?  I think it might be 18?  

[creekman]

Andrew,

 

Electrical is the least of my talents...  but for whatever it's worth wire size depends on distance as well as loads.  You're only talking about moving the switches 18"-24"?  You would probably be ok using the same wire size, but to cover you self you bump up the wire size.  If the roof actuator motor was on a relay then I don't think you have a worry to use the same size wire.  My 2 cents...

 

There must be a 'sparky' out there that can give you a yea or ney...

 

[dwtaylorpdx]

Never change gauge of wire in a circuit, it can heat at the junction where the resistance changes due to the size difference,

if I was wanting to move the switch I'd use the same gauge ,, a barrel connector, crimp then solder lightly only in the hole

in the center of the connector, you don't want solder to flow in to the wire. Most of the circuits in the wiring diagram are

low current and trigger a relay.. May be exceptions. But that's what it looks like.

 

if its a heavy circuit like the AC clutch, or a circuit on the load side of the relay I would put in a new wire..

Edited August 21, 2019 by dwtaylorpdx

[creekman]

I didn't know that... thanks,

[Andrew911]

Yes, moving the two switches about two feet so they reach the rear of the center console.  Appears they are 22 gauge?

 

All I can find locally is 18 gauge.  Will that work for such a short distance?

[B3-CPO]

These are low current switches last time I looked at the schematic. I wouldn't sweat trying to perfectly match the gauge of the wire. Pay more attention at making the right connections and it's always a good idea to solder and shield (i.e. heat shrink tubing) at each break in the line. The next owner would appreciate that!

[dwtaylorpdx]

Another tip:
The reason for the barrel crimp connectors is to give a mechanical

connection that doesn't fail if a wire gets overheated, on these low

load circuits,, its not a deal breaker.. If you solder a pair of wires

together, without the barrel, male sure to not over penetrate the solder,

if it flows in side the wires insulation it can become a brittle joint, it

also takes away the wires ability to flex. So vibration can fatigue it quicker.

 

[dporto]

"it's always a good idea to solder and shield (i.e. heat shrink tubing) at each break in the line."

 

That's not "sheilding" but insulation... but you knew that already! 😉