Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone.  I apologize for the long post but being a former us domestic mechanic details are key, to specifying the issue.  I purchased a 2000 c4 cab in january 2018, the selling dealer had the vehicle for quite a long time before i purchased it.  I did get a great deal on it but thats another story only paid $12,500 usd with a clean mechanical bill of health from a local indy specialist.  Sometime in the 10-11 months the dealer had the car the top quit working, they had pictures with the top up and down, however, in my entire ownership it has never functioned. I had a harley at the time and wasnt concerned about the top, luckily i survived the total loss of said motorcycle and now that i can drive the car again i want to fix the top.  I have done every bit of research i can through the forums and have been stumped for the past year.  Now for the problems.  With the key or button use, the windows roll down and the top unlatches, thats it the clamshell will not even twitch, the motor clicks but nothing else.  The side flaps are all the way open, spoiler down, hood closed, and the parking brake light is on, as well as the top light on the instrument cluster.  I did get the tool kit and gently helped the clamshell motor start moving while depressing the button and the clamshell opened on its own all the way.  The top didnt move at that point, once i got it to the service position i did see the fluid level was slightly low.  The cylinders showed a light seap, soni knownthey are leaking but slowly, probably been leaking for years. I ordered some fluid and a syringe kit to top off the fluid.  While i waited for the fluid to arrive I closed the top, by the switch and it seated latched, and even the clamshell closed and locked in place like it should, the dash light even went off and stayed off.  Upon arrival of the fluid and everything else needed, the clamshell refuses to budge again, i cant even manually raise it with the bolt between the roll bars again as it now just loosens and backs out, i have no way to get it to the service position to change parts fill the fluid anything.  I am guessing the motor/transmission/cables are trash and need replaced, as the one time I got the clamshell to move it was smooth and even in function. I can i get this thing open to continue diagnosing the top.  The car has never been wrecked or had paintwork in its life.  I'm banging my head against the wall and with everything im seeing parts wise being either difficult to source or expensive.  Yes i know its a Porsche and its not cheap to maintain.  Any help will be appreciated, all the posts ihave seen and read deal with the top, or hinges, but i cant open it to continue insoection diagnosis

Posted

Hello Wycked,

 

I strongly recommend finding someone that has, or purchasing for yourself, some sort of diagnostic equipment. It would be interesting to see if there is any stored fault memory.

 

 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

There are 9 motors involved in operating the cabriolet top and they all need to be working in synch with cabriolet "computer" with all the relays back there by your clamshell and hydraulic pump motors.  After I completed all the mechanical fixes my top would still not operate until the local independent worked their PIWIS factory tablet computer magic to attempt to "top synch" the "computer."  This took several visits since each visit would diagnose one error (confused latch motor, top position potentiometer arm broken off, flap motor nuts stripped causing a timing out of the process) Now about every other time I put the top in the "service position" for any reason the top fails to synch afterward and I get to pay the independent another $80 for another 5 minute "top synch" session.

 

In theory Durametric was supposed to do this "top synch" procedure but rumor is that "top synch" was deleted from the home version and moved to much higher priced pro version.  I can't tell because I have not been able to get Durametric to boot up on 3 different Windows laptops. Only have so much spare time.

 

The clamshell manual operation bolt has a big shiny head attached to very small diameter (M5?) threads. I put mine back with Loctite and turn it very slowly and gently.  I have also noted that after a few turns of the bolt the clamshell seems to spring fully open on its own.

 

My clamshell still fails to reseat about every third time I close the top until I reach back and tickle the left flap motor into operating.

Have had it out and bench tested it twice so presume it is a "computer" or relay problem.

At this point it is a livable glitch given the need to put the top in the "service position" and take a chance on paying $80 for another "top synch" procedure.

 

Good luck!

 

Edited by Kevin Bryck
Posted

I have an appointment with local indy to diagnose the top, we shall see in the next week or so.  But now its a race as the plastic back window separated saturday, so it needs a new top, after calling around and finding out the cost of a top replacement, looks like i will possibly be manually having the top lowered, and purchasing a hardtop. Until i can budget $3,300 for a new soft top.  Anyone have a hardtop lying around for sale, i got cash lol

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/8/2019 at 7:21 PM, mjsupp09 said:

Hello Wycked,

 

I strongly recommend finding someone that has, or purchasing for yourself, some sort of diagnostic equipment. It would be interesting to see if there is any stored fault memory.

 

 

 

 

 

On 8/5/2019 at 11:12 AM, Kevin Bryck said:

There are 9 motors involved in operating the cabriolet top and they all need to be working in synch with cabriolet "computer" with all the relays back there by your clamshell and hydraulic pump motors.  After I completed all the mechanical fixes my top would still not operate until the local independent worked their PIWIS factory tablet computer magic to attempt to "top synch" the "computer."  This took several visits since each visit would diagnose one error (confused latch motor, top position potentiometer arm broken off, flap motor nuts stripped causing a timing out of the process) Now about every other time I put the top in the "service position" for any reason the top fails to synch afterward and I get to pay the independent another $80 for another 5 minute "top synch" session.

 

In theory Durametric was supposed to do this "top synch" procedure but rumor is that "top synch" was deleted from the home version and moved to much higher priced pro version.  I can't tell because I have not been able to get Durametric to boot up on 3 different Windows laptops. Only have so much spare time.

 

The clamshell manual operation bolt has a big shiny head attached to very small diameter (M5?) threads. I put mine back with Loctite and turn it very slowly and gently.  I have also noted that after a few turns of the bolt the clamshell seems to spring fully open on its own.

 

My clamshell still fails to reseat about every third time I close the top until I reach back and tickle the left flap motor into operating.

Have had it out and bench tested it twice so presume it is a "computer" or relay problem.

At this point it is a livable glitch given the need to put the top in the "service position" and take a chance on paying $80 for another "top synch" procedure.

 

Good luck!

 

Thank you for your input guys,  after seeing what i can do myself etc.  I was gearing up to have it inspected, when i noticed the plastic window split from the fabric.  This lit a fire under my but as its my daily dricer and cant let it get wet inside.  My local specialist got the oppurtunity to do a service on it recently (i perform them myself usually)  i had him diagnose the top turns out everything is in working order all sensors and hydraulics are good andnall it needs is a clamshell motor (timing out)  sadly it wont be fixed anytime soon as i cant currently afford $3500 for a new soft top to be installed.  I purchased a hardtop and had the shop put the top down.  At least now its safe from the weather. And i know exactly what is needed to get the rag top working 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.