***SOLVED***First oil change -- Problems after

[mjsupp09]

Hello all,

 

Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the durametric and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.

 

Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure guage read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.

 

Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.

 

I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!

Edited July 7, 2019 by mjsupp09

[JFP in PA]

Welcome to RennTech 

 

Recheck the bypass valve in the filter canister to be sure is is seated, and replace the filter cartridge which may have been torn when first installed, creating a second by pass.

 

Good luck.

[mjsupp09]

Thank you JFP for your quick reply! I am certain there was an operator error. I pulled the oil canister and am certainly left with a torn oil filter (need to replace tomorrow). My problem was presuming the oil bypass valve was topside vice bottom of the canister. I'll make sure with my new oil filter the oil bypass valve is seated at the bottom of the oil canister and report back.

 

In all of the oil change threads (and even Bentley's manual) there is no mention of the oil bypass valve in the process. This will be a good reference point to all those that encounter the same problem. Or better yet, to get it right the first time.

 

ETA: 

Looking back through posts, it looks like you recommend the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211 filter. Is this the correct one?

 

Oil Filter - NAPA Gold

PART #: FIL 7211

PRODUCT LINE: NAPA Gold Filters

Edited July 7, 2019 by mjsupp09

[DBJoe996]

I think this is why Porsche started selling the filter and cartridge canister together for <$30.  Once your canister is cross threaded that is the end of that and it needs to be replaced.  Visit a dealer and pick up a filter/canister kit.

[JFP in PA]

10 hours ago, mjsupp09 said:

Thank you JFP for your quick reply! I am certain there was an operator error. I pulled the oil canister and am certainly left with a torn oil filter (need to replace tomorrow). My problem was presuming the oil bypass valve was topside vice bottom of the canister. I'll make sure with my new oil filter the oil bypass valve is seated at the bottom of the oil canister and report back.

 

In all of the oil change threads (and even Bentley's manual) there is no mention of the oil bypass valve in the process. This will be a good reference point to all those that encounter the same problem. Or better yet, to get it right the first time.

 

ETA: 

Looking back through posts, it looks like you recommend the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211 filter. Is this the correct one?

 

Oil Filter - NAPA Gold

PART #: FIL 7211

PRODUCT LINE: NAPA Gold Filters

 

That is the filter we use; it has plastic bonded end caps in place of the factory paper, and also has finer filter media.

[mjsupp09]

Much appreciated gentlemen for the input. Just to close the loop.

 

The oil bypass valve came out with the old filter and not the canister. I got the direction wrong when I put it back in (picture 1), which is why the oil filter/canister threaded half-way by hand without issue, and required a wrench to turn the rest. Pulled the new filter out last night to reverse the direction and noticed the filter tear (picture 2). So, for that last half-way of threading I was destroying the filter.

 

If anyone is doing a first-time oil change and you happen to have the bypass valve separate from the canister (picture 3), make sure you either seat it in the bottom of the canister (picture 4), or (what I had to do), press it into the bottom of the filter, press the filter on to the car, and finally finish by threading the canister on.

 

After I finished this process, I restarted the car this morning and after about 2 seconds of running with no pressure/oil pressure warning light on, the pressure bounced immediately up to 4+ bar and the warning light went out.

[Loren]

[hi8ha]

How about his for the future?

I got one for my 1999 996. As soon as it comes out of the paint shop will install it.

This is from LN Engeneering. 

LN Engineering - Performance Aircooled Cylinders, IMS Bearing Retrofit Solution, Porsche® engine upgrades LN Engineering

LNENGINEERING.COM

---

Home of Nickies - performance aircooled cylinders and sleeves for Porsche® 911, Cayman®, Boxster®. Co-inventor and developer of IMS Bearing Retrofit kits for Porsche® M96/97 Engines. IMS Solution - the only permanent solution fror IMS Bearing Problem - designed for the life of the engine.