Cold air temperature variesl; fan is good; refrigerant charged

[Karl Owen]

With temp set to 72 (outside in the 90s) , the blower spins at full blast, but the air temperature sometimes is hot (ambient).

When the car idles, or is revved up but in park, the air is hot. When I drive slowly (low RPM) it's hot. When I drive with RPMs above 2,000 the air is cold. So it seems it's connected to the engine (and AC compressor) RPMs but also with movement. I checked the refrigerant level and is adequate to high. Also noticed oil temp went to above 225 -- highest I have ever seen it. Water temo usually is 175, this time was a little bit higher.

 

What could be the issue?

 

Of note the outside temp of high 90s is mild by AZ standards, and the car (2007 C4S w 80K miles) did not have this problem previous years.

[rob545]

Hi there I’m thinking maybe your condenser fan is not working properly or is clogged with debris I’d start there.  If the system is cooling when you are moving down the road I would say that is a likely culprit.

[Karl Owen]

Hi there I’m thinking maybe your condenser fan is not working properly or is clogged with debris.

 

That’s a great idea, thank you.

I’m a weekend warrior and I work for the man during the week so won’t have time anytime soon but I am going to check the fan out and report back.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Karl Owen]

OK so I tested with Durametric, and got this:

 

Front Body Module

Current Fault Codes

8016: Left radiator fan motor

8017: Right radiator fan motor

8031: Outside-temperature sensor

C190: Fault instrument cluster (comfort)

 

In the Durametric "Activation" menu I was UNable to turn either fan on. So unless it's a relay issue, seems like fans are gone. Is it possible to replace the fans without draining the coolant (997.1 C4S)? The fans are going be about $900 from Pelican. Ouch.

 

Anyone know what are the other two errors (8031: Outside-temperature sensor and C190: Fault instrument cluster (comfort)) ?

 

[Loren]

Yes, replacing a fan does not require draining coolant.

 

I doubt both fans would die at once - plus you say you can run them through Durametric.

If you clear the codes and run the car (with AC on) which is the first fault code?

[Karl Owen]

21 hours ago, Loren said:

Yes, replacing a fan does not require draining coolant.

 

I doubt both fans would die at once - plus you say you can run them through Durametric.

If you clear the codes and run the car (with AC on) which is the first fault code?

 

So I removed the bumper to clean out the radiators and checked the fans. The one on the driver side was initially frozen, but can be actuated with the Durametric (and turning engine on w/ AC blasting) while the passenger side fan spins freely, but can NOT be turned on.

 

Could this still be a fuse or relay problem or is it now certainly the fan?

 

I had trouble finding the fuse box. Is it this box in the frunk? Or is it in the wheel well?

 

Edited June 12, 2019 by Koenbro

[Karl Owen]

I got a replacement fan from my dealer, and went ahead and replaced it. Problem solved, I can activate both fans in Durametric.

 

Tips for other beginners like me who want to do this swap.

1. I removed the bumper  and it is easier to access the setup. You must remove the front wheel well liner and the thin tubular cross brace.

2. It is easiest to remove the bracket supporting the radiator from below. The electric connection box on the inside/top of the bracket and the large radiator hoses connect with torx screws, while the others are hex (10 and 13mm).  So you need torx sockets.

3. You don't need to disconnect the radiator vent hose.

4. You don't need to separate the AC condenser from the radiator, but it is easy to do, and allows some wiggle room to clean the debris out. I blew compressed air from the back and vacuumed from the front. Quite a bit of mess came out and the rads still don't look clean. Oh well.

5. The electric connector on  the top of the fan assembly (air duct) is tricky. Seems like it should come apart by pulling outward (laterally), but in fact you should grab the inner half and pull it inward. The outer half is attached to the body of the air duct. Luckily I realized this before I broke something.

 

Thanks for the hint that the fan might be a problem. That's why this forum is so great!

 

 

 

On 6/11/2019 at 12:16 PM, Loren said:

Yes, replacing a fan does not require draining coolant.

 

I doubt both fans would die at once - plus you say you can run them through Durametric.

If you clear the codes and run the car (with AC on) which is the first fault code?

 

[Loren]