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Variocam actuator bank 2

jbabington
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jbabington Member

jbabington

Posted
Posted

Can I simply remove/pull out the variocam actuator in bank 2 (or bank 1 for that matter) to possibly clean or replace then simply insert back in without doing anything else? I would like to do this to trouble shoot to see if I can get the actuator to engage with Durametric (of course the engine will not be running).  If it doesn't engage then I would then move to the the solenoid.  I have seen videos where they can be cleaned and start working again however the videos I've seen have the variocam actuator completely taken out and set on a work bench.  My concern is if I do this wrong I create a larger problem when inserting back in.  Any advice, thoughts, questions or comments?

 

Thanks,

 

John

Ahsai Member

Ahsai

Posted
Posted

Since you have Durametric, the diagnosis should be relatively easy. Just keep in mind there are a few things that can be the culprit and you have to eliminate them one by one: DME, wiring, solenoid and actuator.

 

i would recommend the following order:

 

Use Durametric to activate each bank when engine is idling, the engine note and rev should change. If not, unplug the bank 2 solenoid and use a 9v battery to power it while the engine is idling.

 

If it activates with the 9v battery, that means the DME/wiring is the culprit so you trace upstream the wire to the DME. Check power to solenoid and DME internal transistor.

 

If it does not activate with the 9v battery, that means it's either the solenoid or the actuator. Ohm out the solenoid (13 ohm or so). If that passes, remove the solenoid and use a 9v battery to power it. If the pin extends 1/8" or so, the solenoid is fine. Then the problem is the actuator.

 

 

jbabington Member

jbabington

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you Ahsai!  I've already tested bank 1 & 2 engagement where bank 1 is working and bank 2 is not as rev does not change.  I can see where the actuator is located (just above bank 2 header) but I haven't traced where the solenoid is located but assume I should find easily when I take out air filter box.  Can I simply take out the solenoid and/or actuator and place back in without doing any additional steps? 

 

I will follow your steps as I'd rather not take off the header to get to the actuator and I hope it's the solenoid as it's less costly.  Thank you again for your direction!

Ahsai Member

Ahsai

Posted
Posted

Refer to Figure 7 here (it shows the bank 1 solenoid but bank 2 is similar), you need to remove the cam cover just to remove the solenoid. You can put it back without issues. However, to remove the actuator, you would also need to remove the cams and re-time and engine.

 

The steps above should delay the need to remove the cam cover as much as possible.

 

Ahsai Member

Ahsai

Posted
Posted

More complete steps:

 

1) Use Durametric to activate each bank when engine is idling, the engine note and rev should change. If not, unplug the solenoid on the faulty bank and use a 9v battery to power the solenoid while the engine is idling.

 

2) If the variocam activates with the 9v battery (but not with Durametric), conenct a 12v 5w peanut bulb to the solenoid socket, rev engine from idle to 3k rpm. If the light bulb lights up. Problem is on the solenoid/actuator side. Otherwise, problem is on the wiring/DME side.

 

3) If the variocam does not activate with the 9v battery, that means the problem is on the solenoid/actuator side.

 

Problem on solenoid/Actuator side: Ohm out the solenoid (13 ohm or so). Remove the solenoid and use a 9v battery to power it. If the pin extends 1/8" or so, the solenoid is fine. The problem is the actuator.

 

Problem on wiring/DME side: check the solenoid socket gets 12v with key ON engine OFF. Check continuity of the other wire from the solenoid soceket to DME. Open up the DME and check for burnt transistor.

Michael Laity Member

Michael Laity

Posted
Posted

I have a durametric and a 3.6L engine in a 2003 996. I have been having variable cam issues I think. How would I activate the solanoid to test? I found an activation that says valve lift bank 1 and 2.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Ahsai Member

Ahsai

Posted
Posted
27 minutes ago, Michael Laity said:

I have a durametric and a 3.6L engine in a 2003 996. I have been having variable cam issues I think. How would I activate the solanoid to test? I found an activation that says valve lift bank 1 and 2.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

 

Yes, you activate the lift while the engine is idling. The engine should die almost immediately and that is normal.

 

What codes are you getting?

Ahsai Member

Ahsai

Posted
Posted

Btw, the 3.6 has variocam plus and it has two solenoids that plug into the cam cover on each bank (so total 4 solenoids). The solenoids can be removed without removing the cam covers. One solenoid controls the cam timing and the other one controls the valve lift.

 

It's quite different than the Mk I variocam system.

Michael Laity Member

Michael Laity

Posted
Posted
 
Yes, you activate the lift while the engine is idling. The engine should die almost immediately and that is normal.
 
What codes are you getting?
I got code Porsche fault code 579 valve lift control driver bank 1. Are the solenoids the same for the valve lift and the timing?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Michael Laity Member

Michael Laity

Posted
Posted
No they are different. See this thread for troubleshooting and the pic for location.
 
https://www.renntech.org/topic/28572-p0026-codeneed-help/
 
996head.jpg.0a985ab27eb4b4c0a638224b0be4f52f.jpg
I just drove the car to see if I could make it fail. It did go into limp mode and throw misfire codes and the valve lift driver bank 1 issue. I thought the issue was the variable cam solenoid so I already have that arriving but it seems I may need the valve control solenoid.

I used the durametric to test the lift control and it didn't kill the car like it did earlier. The engine was stumbling like one bank was left on. So I assume that means the bank 1 solenoid was bad

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Michael Laity Member

Michael Laity

Posted
Posted
Sounds like so. Did you try activating valve lift on bank 2 just to compare the difference?
It wouldn't allow me to activate on bank 2. My software basically has two lines with buttons that say the same thing about activating the valve lift on 1 and 2. So I don't know why they aren't separate.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Ahsai Member

Ahsai

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, Michael Laity said:

It wouldn't allow me to activate on bank 2. My software basically has two lines with buttons that say the same thing about activating the valve lift on 1 and 2. So I don't know why they aren't separate.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

That's strange. Btw, you can swap the solenoids between the two banks and see if the fault follows the suspect.

Michael Laity Member

Michael Laity

Posted
Posted
That's strange. Btw, you can swap the solenoids between the two banks and see if the fault follows the suspect.
Yea I may reinstall the software and see if it fixes itself. I'll swap the solenoids as my next step. Thank you very much for the help.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Jason Mulholland Member

Jason Mulholland

Posted
Posted (edited)

Could a bad Variable Timing Adjustment solenoid cause bank one to misfire on all cylinders and car not run?   

 

I have a 2004 996 C2 3.6 that I have been trying EVERYTHING to get running.  The problem began during a cold start.  Started fine, but while warming up, it started to run rough, then shut down.  It cranks, and if I pump the gas it will run but only if I keep above 2k RPMs.  Actron pocket OBD2 reader shows all P0300,301,302,303.  No other actual codes, but monitors show misfire, catalyst, EVAP, 02 sensor, 02 heater.  I swapped the Variable Lift solenoids (the other ones) early on in the troubleshooting.  I've also changed out the plugs (again, though did it only 1000 miles ago), inspected all coils, searched for vacuum leaks, tightened down everything I messed with replacing AOS over Christmas break, new oil filler tube, new crankcase breather hose, intake manifold, new crankshaft sensor, cleaned MAF sensor, air cleaner and throttle body, swapped O2 sensors.  I even made sure there was plenty of cranking amps and made sure there was gas and oil.   I was at the end of my DIY rope, but this timing solenoid gives me new hope!!!

 

Just swapped those Variable Timing solenoids.  Still bank 1 not firing.  Noticeably cooler than bank two exhaust manifold.  Could there be a fuel issue that causes problems on only bank 1?  Clogged fuel injectors just on that bank?  Cam position sensor?

Edited by Jason Mulholland
  • 2 months later...
Jason Mulholland Member

Jason Mulholland

Posted
Posted (edited)

Anyone have any thoughts on my '04 Carrera?  My May post above outlines some of my efforts to date.  Since the Variable Timing Solenoid swap, I pulled the left bank chain tensioner, which seems to be functioning as it should.  When I pulled the two green plugs on the camshafts, I noted the cam shafts lined up (suggestion timing is not out of whack).  Car has been sitting in my garage for months and I'm completely out of ideas.  Anyone?  Help appreciated.  

 

I bought the Durametric and hooked it up.  Showed the same misfires to left bank without any new codes.

Edited by Jason Mulholland
Ahsai Member

Ahsai

Posted
Posted

Since you have Durametric, can you check what are your cam deviation values on both bank? The fuel supplies splits into bank 1 and bank 2. I don't see how you can have all the injectors on one bank clogged at the same time. You may want to verify the sparks on bank 1.

 

When you said the cam shaft slots lined up, did you check it with a cam alignment tool or just eyeballed it? Could you do leak down or compression test on one of the cylinders on bank 1?

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