The Forever CEL

[vza]

OK I'll replace the transistor and see if the CEL goes away forever. Fingers crossed...Thanks again V

[Ahsai]

You're welcome. You will probably need to reset the CEL manually after the repair as opposed to letting the DME resetting it, which may take a long time even if the fix is correct.

[vza]

Yes I can do it with my OBDII Light software.

[vza]

Well that didn't work. Seems like the car was less sluggish.Thru cel half hr into the drive... same p1539 and others. So for the light bulb test to check the current to actuator. I have an old solenoid I can clip the connecter off attach a 5w 12v bulb(is it pos or neg specific or doesn't it matter). Then plug it into the wire side coming from dme and see if it lights. Is there a threshold as to when it lights (ie 2000 rpms)...do I drive the car or just Rev it. Can I check both sides with same connecter? thanks v

[Ahsai]

So you replaced that transistor but the codes returned? Polarity doesn't matter for the light bulb. I think you can just rev the engine and the variocam should kick in beofr 3k rpm but I'm not 100% sure. You can test the good bank and see if that bank light up the bulb.

[Ahsai]

You should also try to use a 9v battery to activate the solenoid (with it unplugged from the dme). Polarity doesn't matter. If the engine note changes, then the solenoid and actuator are fine.

[vza]

Well the solenoid is new(replaced) so its the actuator if not an electrical issue. Thanks for the input Ahsai, I will go ahead and check w lightbulb. v

[vza]

Yes ,codes returned after the new transistor but I inadvertently removed the PC board eyelets when removing the old transistor. I got the eyelets back in and checked continuity but you never know. In any case if the light doesn't light then there's no current getting to the actuator.v

[vza]

OK, so its confirmed...attached light bulb harness to bank 2 (problem Bank) and revved up to 4000 or so..nothing. Put harness on bank 1 and got a light just above 2000 rpm's. So I assume its the harness or DME not getting voltage to the actuator. Next step is check continuity between 2 pin actuator connector and DME pins. If I get continuity its the DME correct? thanks for all the help...v

[Ahsai]

Yup, that's what I remember too. Variocam should activate at ~2000 rpm.. That's a bummer. I really thought you nailed it once I saw your photo of the burnt transistor.

 

The 2 pin actuator as mentioned before, one gets +12v power whenever you have key ON engine OFF,  the other pin connects to the DME. So you should check if you get +12v on the connector, then check the continuity of the other pin and the DME pin. If everything checks out, the DME variocam circuit is bad.

[vza]

I wanted to rule out the harness....I can just check continuity between two ends of the harness....harness DME plug to 2 pin connecter. Correct?

[Ahsai]

I know but only one of the wires (the ground supply) is connected to the DME. You can do a continuity check on this wire.

 

The other wire (+12v) is connected to one of main relays and not to the DME. You can check if the wire gets +12v with key ON engine OFF.

[vza]

Oh...ok....got it ,I thought it was all coming all out of the DME plug. For the +12v I will have to go ground to the body to check?

Cause I guess the ground coming from  DME only goes to ground when over 2000 RPM's  ....right?

Edited March 20, 2019 by vza

[vza]

Thanks V

Edited March 20, 2019 by vza

[Ahsai]

For the +12v wire, just touch it with the red probe of the multimeter. Touch the black probe on any  ground point. Make sure key is ON engine is OFF.

[vza]

Got it ....thanks V

[vza]

OK got 12v at the switch and continuity between pin 25 on DME plug and connector so I assume a bad DME. I also opened up the DME and there was continuity between pin 25 and the middle leg of replaced transistor (not sure what that tells me)Should I bother jumping the wire from bank 1 to bank 2 to see if the codes change (seems moot) or buy a used DME? I did mention earlier that when I pulled the old transistor I pulled the pc board eyelets out with it but got them back in ...….wondering if I fried the board. Not sure how to proceed Any ideas? thanks v

[Ahsai]

Yeah, it's quite likely the board (and even the transistor) have been damaged. You may want to check with mastermodule.com to see if they repair the DME. They should be capable and that will be the cheapest option. If you get a used DME, you don't know its condition also you need to bring it to a shop to reprogram it with the immobilizer.

[Ahsai]

Check out ecudoctors.com too.

[vza]

Thanks Will do.

Edited March 21, 2019 by vza

[vza]

I checked with Modulemaster and they don't do it ECUdoctor does it for 657.00 ,send in DME, key and immobilizer and they reprogram the key 5 yr warranty, Moduleexperts do it for 229 lifetime warranty but said I have to bring to dealership for a key re-learn and 2 dealerships somehow can't give a price I'm waiting on a callback. Any ideas? Thanks V

Edited March 21, 2019 by vza

[vza]

Well ...another bit of info. I spoke w indie who said there was power going to the actuator and told him my results with the lightbulb test and he said the DME is in "limp mode" and maybe shutting down that actuator that's why the bulb is not lighting. Confused!! So...would the the DME shut it down? Is that the reason I'm getting no light or a faulty DME? Further more he said the chip burnt for a reason so thats another issue. Thanks V

[Ahsai]

I have no first hand experience with either shop. You may want to check for their reviews online. My thinking is it's probably less hassle to deal with a single shop for everything to avoid finger pointing if things go wrong.

 

I've never heard of such "limp mode" explanation on variocam.

 

My reco at this point will be fix the DME first and go from there.

Edited March 21, 2019 by Ahsai

[vza]

OK....fingers crossed....maybe start a go fund me page LOL. Thanks V

[Michael V]

On 3/21/2019 at 7:34 PM, vza said:

OK....fingers crossed....maybe start a go fund me page LOL. Thanks V

 

Did you ever find a solution yet? I've had the same exact issue since I bought the car, but I bought it knowingly having this code. I've driven it for almost 3 years now with this code but I'd like to get rid of the check engine light so I can get my car inspected lol.