'99 Boxster B6 Fuse Always Blowing

[Ken Miller]

The signal lights and hazard lights on my '99 Boxster suddenly stopped working a couple of days ago. No obvious event preceded it, but it was a very rainy day. I checked the B6 fuse and it was blown. When replaced, the left turn signal is fine but as soon as I engage the right turn signal the fuse blows again. Is it possible this is being caused by an issue in the passenger side signal light and changing it will fix the problem? Any other ideas? Much appreciation in advance.

[JFP in PA]

2 hours ago, Ken Miller said:

The signal lights and hazard lights on my '99 Boxster suddenly stopped working a couple of days ago. No obvious event preceded it, but it was a very rainy day. I checked the B6 fuse and it was blown. When replaced, the left turn signal is fine but as soon as I engage the right turn signal the fuse blows again. Is it possible this is being caused by an issue in the passenger side signal light and changing it will fix the problem? Any other ideas? Much appreciation in advance.

 

Welcome to RennTech 

It could be as simple as a problem with the bulb in that light, or it may also be a short.

[DBJoe996]

Just wait until you pop the light out to change the bulb.  You will probably find that the wire harness on the light has lost most if not all of the wire insulation.  On a 99 at almost 20 years old, the wire insulation just crumbles off the wiring harness, and could be shorted.  No replacement wiring harness is available.  You either have to make one yourself or wrap each wire with electrical tape.  It is a painstaking process that requires a lot of patience.  The only other solution is a new light at $$$$$$$$.

[Ken Miller]

On 11/27/2018 at 7:55 AM, DBJoe996 said:

Just wait until you pop the light out to change the bulb.  You will probably find that the wire harness on the light has lost most if not all of the wire insulation.  On a 99 at almost 20 years old, the wire insulation just crumbles off the wiring harness, and could be shorted.  No replacement wiring harness is available.  You either have to make one yourself or wrap each wire with electrical tape.  It is a painstaking process that requires a lot of patience.  The only other solution is a new light at $$$$$$$$.

 

You were right, DBJoe. The wires to the turn signal light were completely stripped. I did the quick and dirty fix of wrapping each wire in electrical tape. At first, this didn't seem to fix the problem. The turn signals and hazard lights didn't work. There was an improvement in that the fuse wasn't blowing, so the short appears to have been fixed. Then I happened to notice that if the hazard light button was engaged, the turn signals would work. So now I have a car with working turn signals and no hazard lights. Obviously an improvement, and the car can now be safely driven assuming the fix holds, but it will need to be fixed properly. Any ideas what could be causing this behaviour? Could it be a bad switch? Thanks so much for the help you've provided.

[RHR]

Having a similar but different issue with B6 popping in my 97 Boxster. I’ve cleaned all the light housings and connectors, replaced the rear light bulbs, checked the wires, and cleaned the grounds where I could. Also checked and cleaned everything connecting to the top motor. About 20 15amp fuses later problem still exists. Here’s where it gets weird - the fuse does not pop right away. So I started playing with stuff in sequence to see what would blow it. When I open the driver’s door, it pops right away (have not checked if passenger causes the same). All the interior lights are working as they should be, door locks are working fine, windows lifting and dropping on lock and unlock as normal, too. I don’t have a circuit diagram, so I’m not sure what else is being governed by B6. Any thoughts, advice, or extra 15amp fuses would be most welcome. 

[JFP in PA]

17 minutes ago, RHR said:

Having a similar but different issue with B6 popping in my 97 Boxster. I’ve cleaned all the light housings and connectors, replaced the rear light bulbs, checked the wires, and cleaned the grounds where I could. Also checked and cleaned everything connecting to the top motor. About 20 15amp fuses later problem still exists. Here’s where it gets weird - the fuse does not pop right away. So I started playing with stuff in sequence to see what would blow it. When I open the driver’s door, it pops right away (have not checked if passenger causes the same). All the interior lights are working as they should be, door locks are working fine, windows lifting and dropping on lock and unlock as normal, too. I don’t have a circuit diagram, so I’m not sure what else is being governed by B6. Any thoughts, advice, or extra 15amp fuses would be most welcome. 

Welcome to RennTech 

B6 is for the power top, turn signals, and power windows.

[RHR]

4 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

Welcome to RennTech 

B6 is for the power top, turn signals, and power windows.

Thanks! In a 97 986 B6 is just the turn signals and top. Windows work fine; they’re D1. I’m trying to determine what else is driven through B6 as I’m at a loss as to why the fuse only pops when I open the door. It will remain in tact overnight, etc., but as soon as I open the door - poof. 

[Loren]

[RHR]

Thanks! In my wire chasing, I either found the culprit or found something entirely different that needs attention ( attaching a pic). One of the wires from the 12-pin connector to the immobilizer has broken completely loose (Blue/Yellow and I just shoved it back in but there’s nothing securing it). The rest are seated fine but showing some signs of corrosion. I’d like to remove them from the housing, clean them, add new metal wire end connectors, and then reseat them. I’m unsure, though, how to remove them from the plastic housing without causing more damage so I can tend to them. Feels like surgery close to the heart. 

[JFP in PA]

You need what is called a "pin removal tool" set from someone like SIR Tools.  These will allow you to remove the terminal without damaging it, reset the wire and reinstall it.  Other tool companies like OTC make them as well.

 

[RHR]

5 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

You need what is called a "pin removal tool" set from someone like SIR Tools.  These will allow you to remove the terminal without damaging it, reset the wire and reinstall it.  Other tool companies like OTC make them as well.

 

Very helpful, JFP, thank you. I didn’t know they made such a thing, and I’m ordering one now. 

[JFP in PA]

The small connectors inside the pug have a small "tang" that sticks up and locks them in place, these tools allow you to slide in the tool, depress the tang, and remove the terminal and its wire without damage.  Still more evidence that "there is a tool for absolutely everything............." 😀

[RHR]

50 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

The small connectors inside the pug have a small "tang" that sticks up and locks them in place, these tools allow you to slide in the tool, depress the tang, and remove the terminal and its wire without damage.  Still more evidence that "there is a tool for absolutely everything............." 😀

Thank you! I just ordered one - I'll need a magnifying glass to see the tang. Next question is if I need new metal terminal connectors, which I am sure I will, where do I fin them? Thanks again JFP - really appreciate it.

[JFP in PA]

44 minutes ago, RHR said:

Thank you! I just ordered one - I'll need a magnifying glass to see the tang. Next question is if I need new metal terminal connectors, which I am sure I will, where do I fin them? Thanks again JFP - really appreciate it.

 

They are small but not tiny:

Most of the time, with care, they can be reused as they are actually just crimped on.  Reattaching the wire by soldering is a good idea, just be careful about making the connector too big to fit in its opening.

[RHR]

👍🏻