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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello.

Having recently changed the transmission fluid, reinstalling the 'skid plate' under the fluid pan is proving to be a pain in the @ss.

If anyone could advise if there's a trick/sequence to getting it back on I'd be very grateful.

I know for a fact that the plate has never been removed before and that it hasn't been hammered or damaged in any other way.

 

image.jpeg

Posted

Oh man, I’ve been there many times. I usually manipulate the bracket a little bit by hand holding those two bolts that you’re pointing at. It is somewhat pliable. I can’t say that this is the correct way but it works for me. I also leave every other connection loose until all bolts are engaged in the holes. Leave the diagonal strut braces loose too where they connect with the cover. 

  • Moderators
Posted
3 hours ago, wizard said:

Hello.

Having recently changed the transmission fluid, reinstalling the 'skid plate' under the fluid pan is proving to be a pain in the @ss.

If anyone could advise if there's a trick/sequence to getting it back on I'd be very grateful.

I know for a fact that the plate has never been removed before and that it hasn't been hammered or damaged in any other way.

 

image.jpeg

 

 

Two things:  We often use small nylon tie down straps to help pull stubborn bolts into alignment, and we cut a 2 1/2 inch hole beneath the drain plug to eliminate having to pull it again on manual gear box cars, but that won't help you with a Tip.

Posted

Thank you, JFP.  It has also been suggested that I need to load the suspension for it to go back on smoothly.

 

Anyway, it has to remain on jack stands until I can finally get the top of one front suspension strut rethreaded after a nasty rusty nut removal! I've tried with a thread file and am now trying to find a split die thread restorer. The thread file had to come from the States and it appears that I'll have to go that route again for the die.

 

I really should have entrusted it all to a garage !

 

 

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