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Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone installed 08-10 Cayenne Turbo S lower control arm in 955 S.  I have MY04 Cayenne S.

And can MY06 955 CTTS LCA be installed in MY04 CS?

 

part number for MY09 CTTS is 955-341-017-61.

part number for MY06 CTTS is 955-341-017-50

 

I went to the dealer and compared the two, they look almost identical except for a little bit bigger outer diameter where it joins the upper control arm.  It is the #3 bolt location that seems very slightly larger in outer diameter.

f46a8b89081858f7211c9b9284520af5.png

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Hi, I am also interested in using the -61 control arms in a 2004 cayenne turbo, do you have any updates regarding this?

 

From my research the -33 control arms are stock control arms for the 955's, and according to part catalogs and online stores they also fit in 2008-2010 957's 

 

The -50 control arms are for the 955 Turbo S and they can be used in the 955 CTT and S. The only difference is a full rubber bushing instead of a hydraulic one

 

The -61 control arms are apparently an updated version of the -50's., they have the same rubber bushing, but they only fit 2008-2010 957's, according to all the online stores and catalogs. 
But if the -33's work in all Cayennes 2003-2010, why wouldn't the -61's also work. There's also a huge price difference between the -50's and -61's, the -50's are only from Porsche direct, about $350, while the -61's made by TRW and sold on ebay are half of that

 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I just got these from AM Auto Parts. Full set including front upper and lower arms, sway bar links front and rear, and inner/outer tie rod assemblies 

CF5D75DB-F1D0-43D0-A3CB-62B9142A0E1D.jpeg

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi @GSpence2,

 

Can you share with us what was the end result in changing all the major front suspension parts? How does it feel, sound, ect... I am preparing to do full front and rear overhaul and would really appreciate your feedback. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi Camilee 

Funny you should ask as I now have a calibration issue with my suspension fault code P1437. My laptop died just as I was coding the last height sensor (HR) so I’m gonna have to do the whole thing over again.

 

But to your question the difference was night and day. The ride much smoother quieter the steering much faster to respond and more accurate. The road feel when really pushing it felt more planted more solid and whereas before I could hear and feel the rear end breaking loose I don’t feel that anymore and no more hop and skittishness under hard braking (my Pig is not stock ?).

 

 I changed the full front arms and strut mounts all tie rods and sway bar links and sway bar bushings. On the rear I changed the lower arms upper arms and track arms shock mounts and also changed the rear links and sway bar bushings.

Edited by GSpence2
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Update. So new suspension has been on the truck a little more than a month and I’ve driven it hard and a couple of drag strip days. Guess what?

 

The inner tie rods are already shot! No matter because my rack is leaking anyway so I’ll yank the whole assembly at once. 

 

My feedback: go OEM on the suspension bits. While aftermarket kits are super attractive because of their costs, they’re not worth it in the long run.

 

After 1 month about 3900 miles and a couple of trips into the RPM Range 2 zone and the inner tie rods are done!?! Not acceptable.

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