Transmission Jerking after car warms up

[vnb282]

I've searched forums for this issue and can't seem to find someone else having anything similar to what I experience.

 

I have a 2006 Porsche Cayenne S with 207k miles. I personally did the oil change, both differentials, transfer case and flushed the transmission fluid.

 

When I first turn on the car and drive it around for about 2-3 miles the car runs perfectly fine. But once the car get warm it sounds like the transmission is slipping and it makes the car jerk when driving and slowing down.

 

I know most signs point to the transmission needs to be replaced but before I go that route I want to make sure I've exhausted all possible (cheaper) options.

 

Has anyone had any idea what this could possibly be.

 

 

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[JFP in PA]

Welcome to RennTech

 

What fluid did you put in the trans, and what procedure did you use to make sure it is properly filled?

[vnb282]

Welcome to RennTech:welcomeani:
 
What fluid did you put in the trans, and what procedure did you use to make sure it is properly filled?

I am sorry but I forgot to mention that the transmission was doing this before I changed the oil. I was hoping by replacing most (I know by just removing the drain plug it doesn't remove all the oil) that it might make the problem better.

I found an article on this forum saying the Toyota type IV atf was the same as the Porsche so I used that one. I didn't have the duramax tool so I used a tool that measured the heat while the car was running before I topped off the transmission from the fill plug.


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[JFP in PA]

I have no experience with the Toyota fluid as we do not use it.

 

You need to read the trans fluid temps in orders to obtain the correct fill level.  This can be done with a simple thermocouple or a non contact pyrometer during a DIY fluid change, but measuring it fluid temp is important.

[vnb282]

I have no experience with the Toyota fluid as we do not use it.
 
You need to read the trans fluid temps in orders to obtain the correct fill level.  This can be done with a simple thermocouple or a non contact pyrometer during a DIY fluid change, but measuring it fluid temp is important.

I went based of this article I found.

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40735-porsche-cayenne-atf-vs-toyota-type-iv-atf/

I'm not really worried to much about the atf as much as the Jerking and or slipping the transmission does and did before I did the oil change. It only starts doing it after the car warms up and I drive it for over 2-3 miles


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[wizard]

As you may be aware, ATF expands as its temperature rises. Being absolutely certain that the fill level is as it should be at the prescribed temperature seems to be the easiest next step.

 

Are you aware if the ATF and filter have ever been changed before?

 

Do a search for 'Help finding a Valve Body' on here and read the Revmax post. That may prove helpful.

Edited February 20, 2018 by wizard
Additional comment

[vnb282]

18 hours ago, wizard said:

As you may be aware, ATF expands as its temperature rises. Being absolutely certain that the fill level is as it should be at the prescribed temperature seems to be the easiest next step.

 

Are you aware if the ATF and filter have ever been changed before?

 

Do a search for 'Help finding a Valve Body' on here and read the Revmax post. That may prove helpful.

 

I am not sure if that was ever replaced and i was going to do it myself but i wanted to go with just the oil flush before i spent anymore money doing things that "might be the problem"

 

Do you think the Transmission control module TCM might have anything to do it with after it gets warm and causing the transmission to shift that way?

[wizard]

I am no expert and am merely going by what I've read.

 

On the assumption that the fluid drained was black, you really need to drop the transmission pan and change the filter. The Aisin transmission appears to have valve-body-related issues. From what I've read, the valve body is fairly easily accessed once the transmission pan has been removed.  

 

If it were me, that is what I would focus on as the least expensive and least difficult approach and hope that its repair/replacement solves the problem.