Code 1128, 1130

[dpwell]

Happy Holidays,

 

My 1998 5 speed with 2.5L engine has fault codes 1128 and 1130. They popped up about a month ago when I took off in too high of gear and lugged the engine a little. We cleared the codes, but they are back. The vehicle registration is due on 1/8 and a CA smog is required. The car has always bellowed smoke occasionally on start up, but not very often though. Notice how oily it is around the intake? Is that normal? Should we try replacing the Air Oil Separator? The engine runs and starts great. We are piddling around with it now. The air filter is clean. We have the MAF sensor out and it looks okay. I'm reluctant to clean it (we have cleaner) because last time I tried (a decade ago perhaps) it had to be replaced. We don't have a fuel pressure test gauge, but am willing to buy one. Vacuum leaks are not apparent. I guess we'll look for vacuum leaks with smoke, we have cigars, no cigarettes.

[Loren]

Yes, this has been covered here many times before. Every car is different but you are on the right track.

 

Probable causes:

- Intake air system leaking.

- Fuel pressure too low.
- Volume supply of fuel pump too low.
- Fuel injectors fouled.

[dpwell]

This document indicates the 1128 and 1130 occur during idle when a lean condition cannot be corrected.

17109d1362502255-p1128-p1130-fault-codes-advice-p1128_1130.pdf

[crwarren11]

Simply in relation to the CA smog. Having gone through this before with other vehicles, I suggest paying your registration on time. You will get a notice saying smog still needs to be done but this way you will avoid the late fees or the fees to bring the car out of the non-operating vehicle category which can be a real PITA.  Not that I would recommend it, but depending on your area you can pretty easily find some shops which are willing to pass you for a little extra coin. 

[crwarren11]

Just in case this helps, I have a picture of my engine bay when my car was about 10yrs old (2000 Boxster).  I did not have any of the signs of oil around the intake like you do, although it was not as dirty as yours which may actually help you in identifying a possible leak.

 

I cleaned out my engine bay as well a couple of years ago.  Picture also attached for reference.

 

[dpwell]

I appreciate the thought. I have a multitude of vehicles and always pay the DMV fees when due. When they wont pass smog we usually try to sneak them in there without a completed registration. In CA you can get a one day pass. I want the **** thing fixed though so I'm trying to figure out the best course of action. It has become increasing harder to find shops that will falsify smog certificates. We cleaned the MAF and blew out the air filter. No code yet, but all readiness tests not completed.

[dpwell]

Not sure how to reply, but your engine compartment looks very nice. I hate dirty engines and my Porsche is the worst. How do you clean it without getting debris in the interior of the car? 

Edited December 21, 2017 by dpwell
left out form of be

[crwarren11]

On the cleaning, I really didn't have an issue with the debris getting in the car.  Dropped a large blanket over the top and back window.  Disconnected the battery before wash and waited until dry before reconnecting.  That was really the only special step.

 

Regarding your codes, I had the same codes in the past and it was small tears in the rubber intake boots, #28 in the diagram below (996-110-686-01).  It was an amusingly frustrating process to identify.  I finally found the small tear on one side, replaced that one with a new one, and in my infinite wisdom decided to tighten the ring clamps around the other one - causing that one to rip also.  With the first, small tear, the change in idle/performance was unnoticeable, but enough to throw the codes.  After ripping the second one, it was a very rough idle, nearly leading to stall.  I mention this again because of the visible oil around your intake and boots.  You might have some deterioration of the rubber there and small cracks/tears giving you the codes.  Just a thought...

 

If you do find this to be the issue, I recommend replacing all four of the rubber boots, 2x #28 and 2x #10 (996-110-685-01).  Check the p/n's as these may not be correct for your model year.  I highly recommend RMeuropean for parts, as they come to me tax-free in CA with next day shipping.

 

 

[dpwell]

Thanks for your advice. Did you pressure wash the engine? I was considering that, but I think I should wait for warm weather.

 

I usually try to replace aged hoses, belts and elastomers before reassembly.

[crwarren11]

No pressure wash, just some engine cleaner and a hose to rinse. Wiped down the plastic and rubber parts with a maguire’s protectant after drying.