Can O2 sensor fault cause Valve Lift Control fault?

[Quickster2]

Looking for advice on 2012 Cayenne S. Can O2 sensor DTCs cause Valve Lift Control DTCs or vice versa? Can't imagine both O2 and valve lift solenoid "failed" at the same time. DTC's are:

P0133 O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1

P2097 Post catalyst fuel trim system too rich bank 1

P2195 O2 sensor signal biased/stuck lean bank 1 sensor 1

P1361,62,63 Valve lift control cyl 2, 3, &4

P0302, 303 Misfire Cyl 2 & 3

P0300 Random Multiple misfires

P1372 Valve lift control bank 1

P2a01 Mixture bank 1 implausible

P0172 System 2 rich bank 1

 

Looking to see if there are two faults or what to fix 1st. I originally thought bad gas as the errors happened after a fill up but now have burned thru 3 tanks of gas so ruling that out. 

Just donated need to keep this valuable resource afloat. 

Edited October 30, 2017 by Quickster2

[JFP in PA]

Usually more like the other way around.  When the valve lift system goes haywire, you can get strange O2 sensor readings as the mixture has gone off kilter.  Look at the valve control system first.  You may still have a failing O2 sensor, but I rather doubt it.

[Quickster2]

Thanks for the reply. My Indie shop has upgraded to a full PIWIS system so I am going to go there.

1st I am going to get a new battery as mine is (after charging) sitting at 12.21 V. Going to check grounds and relearn the necessary systems and clear the faults. 

2nd will be to monitor faults and if they return tackle the valve lift solenoid. 

3rd monitor and go forward.

Again thx

 

 

 

[waynepark]

Hi, I have the same codes relating to the valve lift. i.e. P1361 P1363 P1362 P1373. How did you resolve this issue?

[Quickster2]

Replaced the valve lift solenoid. All is good now. 

[scanner-1]

On 11/4/2018 at 6:17 PM, Quickster2 said:

Replaced the valve lift solenoid. All is good now. 

MY2011 CTT, 83K miles, intermittently rough idle with the following codes:

   P1372   Valve lift control, bank 1       

   P1361   Valve lift control, cylinder 2       

   P1363   Valve lift control, cylinder 3       

   P1362   Valve lift control, cylinder 4  

I suspect the valve lift solenoid. It looks like an easy enough job (which means I have obviously missed something).

Quickster2, did you do this yourself? If so, any tips or tricks to pass on?

 

 

Additional info (or does anybody else see a different diagnosis or  suggest other data to pull?):

I have no frame of reference for the camshaft deviation numbers, do these differences from between bank 1 and 2 seem odd, normal, or appropriate for this problem?

 

   N010_Nominal intake camshaft angle   130.88   degree CRK   

   N020_Actual intake camshaft angle, bank 1   130.88   degree CRK   

   N040_Actual intake camshaft angle, bank 2   130.88   degree CRK   

   N030_Camshaft deviation, bank 1   3.75   degree CRK   

   N050_Camshaft deviation, bank 2   -0.38   degree CRK   

   N080_Camshaft adjustment valve activation, bank 1   8.99   %   

   N090_Camshaft adjustment valve activation, bank 2   8.99   %  

 

   M005_Engine roughness reference value   65498   us   

   M010_Engine roughness cylinder 1   1024001856   us   

   M020_Engine roughness cylinder 2   1024001856   us   

   M030_Engine roughness cylinder 3   1024001856   us   

   M040_Engine roughness cylinder 4   1024001856   us   

   M050_Engine roughness cylinder 5   9.27   us   

   M060_Engine roughness cylinder 6   19.28   us   

   M070_Engine roughness cylinder 7   14.75   us   

   M080_Engine roughness cylinder 8   14.27   us 

Edited July 20, 2021 by scanner-1

[deilenberger]

Had exactly the same symptoms on my '11 CTT - except cylinder 1 didn't throw an error code for some reason. 2, 3 and 4 did. Also some O2 sensor codes on bank-1.  Also intermittent rough idle, which eventually became all-the-time rough idle.

Fix was a new valve "lift" solenoid. IMPORTANT - this IS different from the valve timing solenoid (located under the valve cover at the front of the head) - this one is recessed into the rear of the head. It is reachable by R&R of the vacuum pump (turbo) - or I've heard from underneath.  About 3 hours labor, valve from Porsche is around $200, but if you're willing to risk it - there is aftermarket for around $60.  Total cost for the job from a very well regarded independent shop - around $600.

[scanner-1]

A new VVT fixed mine too. I am cheap, so I bought the following from Pelican:

Variable Timing Solenoid(2011 Porsche Cayenne Turbo Sport Utility)(m)   Part #: 948-105-308-03-M40

$45.25

 

See if you can tell the difference between cheap and expensive:

 

My arms were not long enough to access from the bottom. I did not remove the wipers and fascia as the manual suggested to access the vacuum pump. My main access was from the top combined with through the right wheel well (removed the wheel, fender liner and slightly bent a heat shield). Tip: only loosen, do not remove the top left screw on the vacuum pump, remove the remaining vacuum pump mounting screws and the pump will back out/twist enough to allow removal/replacement of the VVT. Be prepared for some oil to leak out and ensure the vacuum pump o-rings remain in place . Small tools and a willingness to work by feel/limited visibility are recommended if going this route. Knowing what I know now, this is less than a 2 hour job.

 

[kahukusweet]

Pelican Parts says there are two per car, but everything I read here suggests one. Should I buy two?

 

[scanner-1]

There are two (one for each bank of cylinders). You probably only need one, your diagnostic tool will point you to which bank's VVT solenoid has failed--hard to believe both have failed simultaneously.