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Posted

rear window quit operating trying to remove  the side panel and the locking bolt for rear seat back appears to have broken the weld nut loose it keeps turning but will not come out?

Any Idea on how to remove the side panel then?

Posted (edited)

Method 1

I suggest drilling the center of the bolt head to separate the bolt head from the shank or threaded portion of the bolt. The bolt shank with the weld nut will fall out the far side. Hold the bolt from turning with a box end wrench or visegrips and drill a small whole in the center of the bolt head with a #30 / 1/8” bit. Then step up in the dill diameter in stages up to the shank diameter. You will only need to drill a 3/16” or so deep into the bolt head to remove the head of the bolt.

 

If the nut or bolt have thread damage use new hardware.

 

To make repairs to the fastener installation you will need to epoxy the weld nut in place. First thread a new nut onto the shank of the old bolt.  This nut will be used to hold the assembly in place while the epoxy cures. Coat the bolt with some RTV silicone, to prevent the epoxy used in the next step from entering the threads, then partially screw the nut on. Let the RTV cure overnight. Clean the weld nut surface on the sheet metal side. Coat the weld side of the nut with a structural epoxy and insert the assembly from the back side. Hold the old bolt with a visegrip pliers to prevent it from spinning and tighten the new nut to secure the assembly. If you have access to the weld nut side, add some epoxy around the weld nut and sheet metal. Be careful with getting epoxy in the threads. Let it cure and remove nut/bolt assembly. The weld nut should be adhered to the sheet metal. Make sure everything is clean and dry before applying the epoxy.

 

Method 2

Another way is to insert a nutsert, if you have access to the tool and nutserts. After drilling an appropriate size hole where the welded nut was, insert a nutsert and squeeze to capture the sheet metal.

 

Link to nutsert tools

 

https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Riveter-Thread-Riveting-Included/dp/B01M59GTH8/ref=sr_1_1/143-4927746-3595602?ie=UTF8&qid=1506377222&sr=8-1&keywords=rivnut+tool+kit

 

This is the on I have it it works very well.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-1442-Setting/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=sr_1_2/143-4927746-3595602?ie=UTF8&qid=1506377222&sr=8-2&keywords=rivnut+tool+kit

Edited by porschedude
Posted
On ‎9‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 7:21 PM, Ronnie38 said:

Thanks will work on it in the morning,  Sunshine lately, no rain, will report on progress.

How is the damage around you town?

Posted
On 9/25/2017 at 5:08 PM, porschedude said:

How is the damage around you town?

 

On 9/25/2017 at 5:08 PM, porschedude said:

How is the damage around you town?

lot of trees down, beach dune damage, and I lost some shingles. Now on to the car had to cut off the bolt, removed panel held the weld nut with vise-grip and an other to remove the stub of the bolt, will worry about the nut later during reassembly, had a ***** of a time getting the window unit out, don't remember the left side having a problem but I was  younger then now to try to restring the drive pulley. If any one has any photos or diagrams I would love to see them. Last time I was working so just ordered a new one but now being retired got to repair it.

Cheers now 

Posted

Glad to here you were unscathed compared to others.

 

Sorry for the verbose methods, I assumed the worst and couldn’t get to the shank, but your method is sound. Is the internal weld nut ok?

Posted

No will work on this after I get the rear window to operate, got to figure the re-stringing the cables, now that i'm retired got to fix it myself to save on cash. will try to document the repair.

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