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Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2001 boxster s that won't fire. 120k miles.

It hasn't been used for a good few years but upon return to the car it started fine and drove as it always did.

passed it's MOT no issue but 1 radiator leaking

ive replaced all 3 front radiators

the car is still not being used but now won't fire up.

battery is relatively new and is connected to a conditioner

the engine turns over quickly but won't fire

everything else works 

live tried a jumper lead across the fuel relay (fuel pump works) but still won't start

any thoughts??

thanks all

chris

 

  • Moderators
Posted

Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

 

Could be any number of things; I would start by checking the fuel pressure and delivery rates.  Cars that have sat for long periods often stir up junk in the tank the plugs the fuel filter.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Ahsai,

All warning lights (inc. CEL) are on - as you would expect when you turn on the ignition and before the engine fires (engine doesn't then fire which is the problem)

Fuses OK

Tach needles does NOT move during cranking - what would that mean?

Chris

 

Posted
1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

 

Could be any number of things; I would start by checking the fuel pressure and delivery rates.  Cars that have sat for long periods often stir up junk in the tank the plugs the fuel filter.

Thanks JFP - will try that and get back to you - I've gone through some of your other replies discussing delivery rates and pressures and fuel system generally - so quite a lot to go through. Will revert once I've got some more. Cheers

Chris 

Posted
1 minute ago, Loren said:

Check the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) too.

Hi Loren - Thanks

Excuse the ignorance but how does one check the CPS? Could you describe a test?

Cheers
Chris

  • Admin
Posted

The crank position sensor is on the flywheel housing and is triggered (magnetically) by the teeth on the flywheel.

 

1. Remove connector. Connect an ohmmeter to CPS sensor connector, pins 1 and 2.
Display at 20 °C: 0.8 - 1.0 k ohms

 

2. Connect an ohmmeter to CKP sensor connector, pins 1 and 3.
Display: infinite ohms

 

If either test fails you need to replace the CPS.

Posted
3 hours ago, Chris Matthams said:

Thanks Ahsai,

All warning lights (inc. CEL) are on - as you would expect when you turn on the ignition and before the engine fires (engine doesn't then fire which is the problem)

Fuses OK

Tach needles does NOT move during cranking - what would that mean?

Chris

 

 Che k fuse E1 then the CPS as Loren said. Tach needle not bouncing is a strong indication the CPS or its wiring is bad. Any chance of rodent chewed off some wires?

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Thanks all for assistance - good news is that the problem was a broken wire (pin 1 I presume) from the harness side of the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Joint soldered up and car runs only the temperature warning light is now flashing!!

I do think I'll need to do a proper job of the repair as it's a bit shoddy right now but access is a nightmare!!Any tips here gratefully received.

 

Thanks for super quick responses and good ideas. Cheers

 

Chris

Posted

Glad you got it sorted and it was simple. Re the flashing light, it indicates the underlying cause with different frequency of flashing. Could be as simple as the level sensor  or low coolant. Just search here as it's been covered before many times.

Posted

Does the starter motor work? If not, it could be an issue with the key's transponder.

Sent from my N9518 using Tapatalk

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