Broken front strut top bolt

[BufordTJustice]

Okay, I had a very light rattle from the left front that I noticed only after discarding my old, poorly worn Pirelli Pzero Assimetrico tires in favor of new Michelin Pilot super Sport tires.

 

I went to check torque on the front strut top plate bolts. I set my calibrated torque wrench to 30 foot pounds (I know the spec is 35). All 3 nuts on the front passenger strut were fine and didn't move. The rear two nuts on the driver side were also tight.

 

The front most nut on the driver's side KEPT TURNING. It felt as if it was only hand tight as it didn't provide enough resistance to allow the ratchet mechanism to function at all.

 

I immediately stopped and tried to thread it by hand, but no dice. Another 1/4 turn and no building of resistance. Another 1/4 turn and still no additional resistance. The third 1/4 turn and the resistance DROPS.

 

It was at this point that I realized I was not merely compressing the rubber gasket between the top plate and the chassis, but that the stud was broken.

 

I removed the deep well socket and torque wench to observe that the stud was now canted. Dammit. Fears confirmed.

 

I can only guess that the nut was not tight and the out of balance front tires vibrated and weakened the stud through minute movement. But guess is all I can do.

 

So, I would love to hear that I don't have to disassemble the entire front driver's side suspension to extract that stud (the bottom of which is easily visible and accessible through the wheel well).

 

Is there a way to knock that stud out and then thread the new one up from the bottom without removing the strut?

 

I have a new nut and strut top plate on order from Pelican. The strut top plate has the three studs, which it appears one could either be pressed or threaded out and transferred to the plate in the vehicle and re-torqued.

 

I haven't even sat in the vehicle since this happened, much less driven it. So, I think no movement has occurred.

 

Help appreciated. All experience solicited.

 

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[Ahsai]

Those nuts on the front struts should be 24ftlb (m8 studs). The ones on the rear are 34ftlb (m10 studs).

[BufordTJustice]

Noted and thank you. I'm going to leave the others at 30 until the suspension gets redone as the troubled nut seemed wonky from the start.

Regardless, thank you for the correct values.

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[BufordTJustice]

Here is the part on order with the studs.

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[Ddavidoff]

Drill it out from the wheel well, bolt, nut and washer it. Or drop the suspension and replace the top hat with the one you ordered. My preference is the latter.

 

 

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[Hilux2400]

If it were just one, I would drill it from the top and replace with a bolt and flange washer.

 

It's not hard to replace the strut top mounting and it will come out with just the removal of the caliper, as otherwise you will overstretch the flexible brake hose.  You will also need to disconnect brake pad warning wire and the ABS warning wire as these are connected to the back of the strut.  Jack up both side of the car so that the sway bar is evenly loaded and release the bottom and top swivels from the sway bar drop link.  The top through bolt from the sway bar drop link clamps the strut in place.  You will need to make sure it is free and remove it.

 

After you have done the above drop the whole lot down after having released the three top mount nuts..  Mark the position of the flange nuts so that the top link goes back in the same location.

 

You will now need two items: a coil spring compressor and two ratchet straps.   Compress the coil spring and as you do it keep the compressors tight against the spring with one ratchet strap applied horizontally.  When this is done you will see that the top mount protrudes from the spring as it is held out by the shock absorber.  Now use the other ratchet strap to compress the shock absorber to reduce the height of the turret, pushing the top mount back into the spring.  The strut will now be short enough to swing out below the wheel opening in the wing, without removing any other suspension components.  

 

You can now take out the strut from the hub carrier and put on the new top swivel. 

 

It is possible to replace the top mount without taking the strut out from under the wing.  Bit it's very awkward and you risk jamming fingers if the spring releases suddenly and clamps your hand under the wing.  

 

Remember to wear gloves and safety goggles.

 

 PS

 

Remember to apply rubber grease between the cone washers and the rubber bush.  It stops them squeaking.

 

Edited July 31, 2017 by Hilux2400
Rubber grease addition

[BufordTJustice]

Drilled out from the top, starting with a small pilot bit. Ended with an 8mm drift punch that knocked the rest of it out of the bottom.

 

If the new stud is super difficult to remove from the new top plate assembly, I'll grab some grade-8 M8 bolts with a double stack of heat treated washers to use on the bottom, paired with the factory nut on the top.

 

VOY-LUH.

 

 

Thank you to everybody who had posted thus far. I greatly appreciate your input and all of it was taken into consideration, I assure you.

 

I'll post final pictures when I get the bolt/stud reinstalled.

 

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[BufordTJustice]

Replacement strut top plate assembly came in from Pelican two days early. YES!

 

The top stud pressed out with a vice without issue. Now for some sleeve retaining compound and it goes back in.

 

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