Reasonable Cost Estimates for Jobs?

[bobinyelm]

I am new to my '04 Turbo S and the car has some deferred maintenance issues.

 

I want to do as much myself as I can, but there are some things I would like to have done by a competent shop to start with due to Check Eng Lights and rough running issues.

 

I was wondering if there are "stickies" or files where "reasonable" cost estimates might be found?

I did a search to no avail.

 

I am getting misfire codes (random cylinders) and acceleration is not smooth, and I suspect the spark plugs have over 100k on them, so

 

(1)how much should I expect to pay for new plugs installed.

(2) Also the after-cat on Bank 2 shows a MIL code, so will have the After-Cat O2 Sensor changed.

(3) I also have a right rear self-leveling sensor code, and the instrument panel mentions a malfunction for that system. The dea;ler quopted $435 for the sensor, but it's a special-order part they do not stock.

(4)  The battery light is on (little orange rectangular symbol in speedometer) and the scan tool showed 11.4 volts before engine start, so I am told that the battery should be changed (though the car starts fine). The manual says the seat bolts must be renewed when the battery is inspected or changed. Given the cost/compexity of servicing teh battery, what brand would be the best for longest life and zero maintenance during its entire life?

What would be a reasonable sum to pay to have a new battery installed, and DO you really need to go to a shop where they can replace the seat bolts with new factory bolts?

 

The O2 sensor looks like a tough job (the one shop I consulted mentioned dropping the exhaust and replacing ALL of of the O2 sensors at once for a price I hesitate to mention in mixed company. I was hoping to just reach up and change the one sensor, but the steering shaft is badly in the way.

 

Thanks,

Bob

[lewisweller]

4 hours ago, bobinyelm said:

I am new to my '04 Turbo S and the car has some deferred maintenance issues.

 

I want to do as much myself as I can, but there are some things I would like to have done by a competent shop to start with due to Check Eng Lights and rough running issues.

 

I was wondering if there are "stickies" or files where "reasonable" cost estimates might be found?

I did a search to no avail.

 

I am getting misfire codes (random cylinders) and acceleration is not smooth, and I suspect the spark plugs have over 100k on them, so

 

(1)how much should I expect to pay for new plugs installed.

(2) Also the after-cat on Bank 2 shows a MIL code, so will have the After-Cat O2 Sensor changed.

(3) I also have a right rear self-leveling sensor code, and the instrument panel mentions a malfunction for that system. The dea;ler quopted $435 for the sensor, but it's a special-order part they do not stock.

(4)  The battery light is on (little orange rectangular symbol in speedometer) and the scan tool showed 11.4 volts before engine start, so I am told that the battery should be changed (though the car starts fine). The manual says the seat bolts must be renewed when the battery is inspected or changed. Given the cost/compexity of servicing teh battery, what brand would be the best for longest life and zero maintenance during its entire life?

What would be a reasonable sum to pay to have a new battery installed, and DO you really need to go to a shop where they can replace the seat bolts with new factory bolts?

 

The O2 sensor looks like a tough job (the one shop I consulted mentioned dropping the exhaust and replacing ALL of of the O2 sensors at once for a price I hesitate to mention in mixed company. I was hoping to just reach up and change the one sensor, but the steering shaft is badly in the way.

 

Thanks,

Bob

Holy guacamole Bob that's a list right off the bat.

They didn't make a turbo S until late 2006 so I reckon someone stuck the S on. Anyhow that doesn't make a difference to the list of repairs. 

 

Are you mechanically minded? If not do you have deep pockets? I'm talking from a lot of personal experience, even working on it yourself will be costly for parts. The garages will soon rack up many thousands for simple works. 

Pelican have a lot of good diy guides and You Tube and this forum also are great resources. Do your homework! 

 

A lot of the jobs if not all are doable by yourself with basic tools. 

 

First item, plugs, buy 8 ngk BRK6EIX spark plugs which work great and will last 50k easy. Inspect all the coil packs very carefully, any cracks or bulges spells failure or pending failure, if you find any bad then change them all along with the Spark Plugs.

Apart from removing the covers and needing to remove the torque arm bush it's pretty straight forward job.

Special tools, Star sockets, 1/4" socket set, 1/2" socket set, torx bits set, triple square set. 

These tools along with basic tools will cover almost all jobs on the cayenne. 

 

Post cat o2 sensor is a bit tricky, I did change both precat lambda sensors which was not a difficult as so many people claim. 

 

Sensor malfunctions are not always in need of replacement, I've calibrated mine a few times after works which required them being removed or car raised for long periods. Calibration is possible with genuine Ross tech vagcom vcds (I use version 15.7.1) or of course Porsche PIWIS which you can't afford to buy. Duremetrics although being the best Porsche enthusiast scan tool does not have the calibration capability by all accounts, and don't even consider another code reader it won't be very helpful in this scenario. 

 

Battery is another diy with triple square bit required to remove the front seat bolts (new bolts in my opinion is not required). Verify the alternator is good by testing whilst engine is running, 13.7-14.2v is good. Any less mean maybe the alternator is weak or another issue is present. Battery under cranking to start should not Dip below 9 volts, 9.5-10v is just right. Battery at rest engine off all doors shut no loads on should read 12.6v or very close. Much less means the battery is either under changed or non serviceable. 

Buy from Interstate your battery and make sure you get the correct amps and CCA rated one. 

 

Good luck. And welcome to cayenne ownership. 

 

[bobinyelm]

Thanks, and yes, you are of course correct on the model.

 

Mine is "simply" a Turbo and not a Turbo S. Frankly, I looked a several cars before buying mine, and a few were Turbo S cars that were (1) More expensive, and (2) in need of more maintenance (ratty interiors/looked tired).

 

I examined the door jam sticker after reading your reply and was somewhat surprised to find my car was manufactured 05/03, making it a 2003 model, though it is titled as a 2004 on the paperwork.

 

The 11.4 value was with the ignition ON, but the vehicle not running. I didn't measure cranking volts, but it cranks fine (normal crank rpm). It rises to 13.8-14.0 running/charging.

 

I assume the height sensors are Hall Effect units that normally shouldn't go bad? Since I am sure my scanner (Autel MaxiDAS 708) doesn't have that calibration ability, it sounds like that I need a better scanner or a visit to the dealer to calibrate (or replace the part if that will fix it). I found my scanner does adaptations for many makes, including VW, but NOT on Porsche, too. The local Porsche dealer quoted $500 just for the height sensor alone, I suspect that the dealer option will be prohibitively expensive, but the dealer said the units are indeed VW units (7L0 616 571), but that Porsche testes and certifies every VW part they use in their cars as most VW parts off-the-shelf don't meet Porsche quality standards and are returned to VW, so they have to charge more for them.

 

On the "list" of "To Dos" it's quite a bit longer, with codes for several systems (mostly servo issues for footwell flap, central vents, circulation flap), Rain Sensor, Footwell Light Potentiometer, Park Assist Module, Immobilizer, door locking system, and a few more.

 

The "Biggies" were the Post Cat O2 and the Inop Transfer case (No ground or Power for the Servo Motor).

 

Thanks

Edited June 3, 2017 by bobinyelm