Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

 

Attempting my first brake pad, lines & rotor replacement.  Hoping I could outline the main steps I plan to follow for comment (inlcuding laughs). Since I'm replacing lines with steel braided lines, thought this way may make sense:

Jack/remove tires

Cut soft line to front driver caliper and drain fluid

Remove clip and pads

Remove hard line from chasis connection and completely remove caliper

Remove rotor

Replace dampers and connect steel line to caliper (easier at the workbench)

Replace rotor, caliper, connect hard line at chasis connection

Add pads, clips

Rinse, repeat and bleed

 

Since car is old (2001 C4) and it's been a while, thought it would be easier to remove line at chasis and connect braided line at my workbench.  Am i totally off base with this approach?

 

 

  • Moderators
Posted

You are heading for a major headache.  If you allow the brake system to drain of fluid, you will need a Porsche specific scan tool to get everything working again.  You would be far better off to do one rubber line at a time, disconnecting and replacing with the braided lines.  Once done, the entire system will need to be flushed to get the air out.

 

If you are going to remove the calipers from the car, plan on fabricating some plugged rubber hose bits to cap off the car's hard line's while it is apart for the same reason.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Thanks JFP.  That's exactly the missing info I needed.  To change the lines at the other connection (where hard line meets soft), it would seem I will need plugs as well for the hard line, correct?

  • Moderators
Posted
1 hour ago, bigmsm said:

Thanks JFP.  That's exactly the missing info I needed.  To change the lines at the other connection (where hard line meets soft), it would seem I will need plugs as well for the hard line, correct?

 

Yes, but they do not have to be fancy, just some correctly sized black rubber hose with a screw in one end to stop the leak.  You need to prevent the system draining and air getting back up into the ABS/PSM control network, as this then needs the scanner to activate systems during a flush to get it back out.  A little fore thought and some fifty cent fabricated plugs/caps will prevent major headaches. :blink:

  • Upvote 1
  • Moderators
Posted

We don't like to push hard objects like golf tees into the hard lines as they have unusual flare ends and you really do not want to deform them.  Something soft, like hose, slipped over the line end is a better bet.............

  • Upvote 1
Posted

I meant golf tees in the soft hose that one would attach to the hard line.  Sorry for the misstatement.  Agree a screw would work as well.

  • Moderators
Posted

If you measure the line flare, you can actually get little rubber caps for a few cents each that are supposed to be for capping off unused vacuum lines that look neat and do an excellent job as well:

 

910HGXx-TfL._SX355_.jpg 64-42817.jpg

But a screw in a hunk of rubber hose also does the same job....................

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Pads, rotors and fluid, Done!  Decided to skip replacing the lines after encountering some difficulity with the first nut.  Didn't want to push it so I'll will wait for next pad change.  Appreciate the Board's help.  Now I need to decide on the next project!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.