Shifter doesnt show "P"

[ekstroemtj]

I have a old CS which was on the street without driving for more than 2 years (scored cylinder). I am going to try to put him to life again.

After having a new battery and clearing all codes i one problem is remaining. 

the shifter works well but when i want to stop the car and put shifter in P the display is showing "put shifter into P positon".

key is not removing. Only after some wiggle.

According some other forum information i disconnected the assembly. Changed everything and replaced. No change. Still the same message on the display. 

Interesting is if i leave the green board out if the assembly there is no message and the click and key is coming out like it has to be.

i checked the wiring under the carpets but couldnt see anything strange.

whereelse i could check for this problem?

[Georgeramosjr]

I have the same issue.

https://youtu.be/bdRIqAOZli8

 

 

I remove the circuitboard but now I have a few other problems. The trip tonic does not work from the gearbox on the steering wheel, after about 30 minutes of driving the display get stuck on D and it will not show what a switch to other gears including neutral, reverse, and park. Additionally, now there are no lights in the gearbox

[ekstroemtj]

I replaced the board for a new one and the problem stay. So its not the board

[Doohan]

Is the tranny switching to P when this position is selected?

[Georgeramosjr]

Mine does switch to P with or without the the circuit board.

[Georgeramosjr]

4 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

I replaced the board for a new one and the problem stay. So its not the board

You saved me a few bucks.

[ekstroemtj]

1 hour ago, Doohan said:

Is the tranny switching to P when this position is selected?

Yes the tranny is going to the P Position. Even showing on the dash "P".

but as soon as i want to take out the key...........PUT SELECTOR TO PARK POSITION

[lewisweller]

Guys it's the magnet position in relation to the circuit board I think. Either the magnet distance is too far from the circuit board inductive sensor or the magnet is weak and that plastic bit black cover piece needs to be changed. Maybe after years of use the Plastic sags alittle down and too far away from the circuit board?

 

Also possible is the pin on the board that plug into the connector are not making proper contact but unlikely. 

Try to get another magnet from somewhere and run it manual under or over the circuit board to test the board is functioning. If that works then you know the board is not the issue as thomas found with his new board. 

 

[ekstroemtj]

Lewis

 

i changed all this parts for new. The lever with magnets. The board.  Nothing changed. 

[bigbuzuki]

Check the cable that runs from the lever to the transmission mode switch on the transmission.

 

I've read that the cable may stretch and not position the mode switch correctly down on the transmission.

 

It may be possible to remove the slack in the cable by adjustment as per link below.

 

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/861420-move-selector-lever-to-position-p-fault.html#post12940606

Edited October 16, 2016 by bigbuzuki

[ekstroemtj]

15 minutes ago, bigbuzuki said:

Check the cable that runs from the lever to the transmission mode switch on the transmission.

 

I've read that the cable may stretch and not position the mode switch correctly down on the transmission.

 

It may be possible to remove the slack in the cable by adjustment as per link below.

 

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/861420-move-selector-lever-to-position-p-fault.html#post12940606

 

Thank you for this post. Are we talking about this cable with the BLUE head?

[bigbuzuki]

I think it is the mechanical cable they are referring to.

 

[ekstroemtj]

Thank you.  But where this cable could be. Nothing which is looking similar  on the shifting assembly. 

[ekstroemtj]

2 hours ago, bigbuzuki said:

I think it is the mechanical cable they are referring to.

 

 

 

You even refer to the part number in a different topic. But i cant find a part diagramm showing the location.

 

 

[bigbuzuki]

The selector lever cable connection is as per the diagram.

The other end is connected down on the transmission.

Edited October 16, 2016 by bigbuzuki

[bigbuzuki]

This the cable at the transmission end.

[lewisweller]

Hi Thomas, if everything is new then I think time to review the history here, before the battery was a issue always going flat and you didn't drive for a while, so I think this might be a electrical communication issue rather than a assembly or mechanical issue as it doesn't make sense it failed just sitting outside for 2 years. 

Before doing anything else why not get out the battery charger and trickle charge the battery for several hours at low amp. Then reconnect and start the car (do some lock and unlock and key in ignition so least recognises it, clear codes and try again the shifter. 

 

[Doohan]

1 hour ago, bigbuzuki said:

This the cable at the transmission end.

If the tranny is switching to the P position, there is nothing wrong with the cable.

It could be something with the key ignition block, when I put in Park I can feel some mechanical engagement/disengagement in the key ignition assembly.

So it may be a simple lack of lubricant in that part.

Edited October 16, 2016 by Doohan

[ekstroemtj]

7 minutes ago, Doohan said:

If the tranny is switching to the P position, there is nothing wrong with the cable.

It could be something with the key ignition block, when I put in Park I can feel some mechanical engagement/disengagement in the key ignition assembly.

So it may be a simple lack of lubricant in that part.

 

Thats the point. Its going to P and shifting is ok. You just dont hear the click when putting in and out the key. 

I guess it must be something electric. Otherwise it wouldnt work when taking out the green circuit board

[ekstroemtj]

1 hour ago, lewisweller said:

Hi Thomas, if everything is new then I think time to review the history here, before the battery was a issue always going flat and you didn't drive for a while, so I think this might be a electrical communication issue rather than a assembly or mechanical issue as it doesn't make sense it failed just sitting outside for 2 years. 

Before doing anything else why not get out the battery charger and trickle charge the battery for several hours at low amp. Then reconnect and start the car (do some lock and unlock and key in ignition so least recognises it, clear codes and try again the shifter. 

 

 

Lewis,

 

i try to track down the drain problem by using a method which i found on you tube. Used the voltmeter and pinned every single fuse if there was some flow. All what i found is the fuse for the plug in connectors.  

Of course this problems are running down a battery very fast. No driving for some weeks and the battery is down. 

I charged . When the car is running its showing 13,8 in the engine compartment at the jumping connectors. Engine shut off its showing now 12.00

[lewisweller]

19 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

 

Lewis,

 

i try to track down the drain problem by using a method which i found on you tube. Used the voltmeter and pinned every single fuse if there was some flow. All what i found is the fuse for the plug in connectors.  

Of course this problems are running down a battery very fast. No driving for some weeks and the battery is down. 

I charged . When the car is running its showing 13,8 in the engine compartment at the jumping connectors. Engine shut off its showing now 12.00

If battery measures less than 12.6volts it's no good. Must be charged or replaced if it won't charge properly. 13.8 volt is good from alternator but if battery is bad still it won't charge up or hold the charge. 

 

[ekstroemtj]

So you want to tell me this battery is toast again? 

 

Edited October 16, 2016 by ekstroemtj

[ekstroemtj]

Will buy new one :-(

Edited October 16, 2016 by ekstroemtj
Mistake

[Georgeramosjr]

40 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Will buy new one :-(

Keep me posted as to if a new battery solves the issue. 

[ekstroemtj]

Maybe i will just swap the battery from my turbo to this car and see how it works. If no change, no need for a new battery