Turbo / MAF replacement, Oil found

[ekstroemtj]

Here is this little bastard

[lewisweller]

On 07/01/2017 at 7:51 PM, ekstroemtj said:

Here is this little bastard

So how is the car driving now?  Did the new flex disc change the other driving issues? 

[ekstroemtj]

Lewis cant tell you for shure. I took the car and same day my wife took it to drive to prague. I will have some testdrive when she will be back

on the way home from the shop i couldnt feel any problems. Strange . But i was so used to this vibration that i dont even remember how this  car usually is driving. 

[lewisweller]

On 09/01/2017 at 1:40 AM, ekstroemtj said:

Lewis cant tell you for shure. I took the car and same day my wife took it to drive to prague. I will have some testdrive when she will be back

on the way home from the shop i couldnt feel any problems. Strange . But i was so used to this vibration that i dont even remember how this  car usually is driving. 

Any news on the ctt now Thomas? Engine wise I mean. 

[ekstroemtj]

No. My wife still in Prague with the car. She say it drives normal. But she dont have this sensitivity :-)

 

I will see and report when she is back

 

[ekstroemtj]

So just a update. 

My first long trip after the car came back after flex disc replacement. 

Frankfurt to Munich and back.1000 km.

i have to admit, there was no vibration , no hesitation when accelerating. Was all this strange behavior before only related to the cardan flex? Hard to believe. 

But for now the car runs pretty well.

But...

 

- still boost is climbing to fast  to high levels when i accelerate from low rpm's : overboost code

- whistle noise when turbo is kicking in

- still camshaft position over advanced, code P0011 which is i think the camshaft solenoid / actuator. 

 

[ekstroemtj]

If anybody ever going through the same problem. The purge valve wiring/connector failed because the wiring became briggle.  There is a chance not to buy the entire wire. The connector is available from Bosch for 6.50. Was one reason of many for my bad running engine

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[ekstroemtj]

I just replaced the connection to the N75 valve. Also not necessary to buy the entire wiring from Porsche. Its a Bosch Part for 3,50 EUR

[Zakowsky]

Not just because I miss this thread, but Lewis or Thomas, do you know anything about this vent/valve here? I can suck air out of it but not into it. Since it is a crankcase vent, you would think it would be the other way around...thanks.

[ekstroemtj]

Hi Mikel. Hope you are doing well.

 

the vent hose you are talking about has to be close. Its regulating the pressure within  the crankcase. Crankcase ventilation hose. Any leak will result in a strange engine running. For my understanding if to much pressure the vent is opening and preasure can release .

[lewisweller]

I think Thomas is spot on, it's a fail safe if the crankcase vacuum becomes pressurised it will vent out here. 

 

[Zakowsky]

Thanks Thomas, thanks Lewis,

 

It does takes a bit of pressure to open the valve and let pressure out, so I guess that must be enough to hold it in – I don’t see any oil coming out there so I guess it holds.

 

But you mentioned the crankcase “vacuum” becoming pressurized; I never new it also becomes negatively pressurized. I thought it was always a PCV system. Interesting; the reason I am looking at any of this is the small line that runs off this hose and goes to the back (looks like into the manifold, maybe that is where the negative pressure comes from) is oily at the connectors, thought it might be leaking a bit. At any rate going to clamp those up just for good measure. Thanks.

[lewisweller]

2 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks Thomas, thanks Lewis,

 

It does takes a bit of pressure to open the valve and let pressure out, so I guess that must be enough to hold it in – I don’t see any oil coming out there so I guess it holds.

 

But you mentioned the crankcase “vacuum” becoming pressurized; I never new it also becomes negatively pressurized. I thought it was always a PCV system. Interesting; the reason I am looking at any of this is the small line that runs off this hose and goes to the back (looks like into the manifold, maybe that is where the negative pressure comes from) is oily at the connectors, thought it might be leaking a bit. At any rate going to clamp those up just for good measure. Thanks.

The small pipe goes to the rigid metal turbo vent pipes located at the rear of the engine. Mine are leaking oily mess but when it tested it I could get anything to pass so I just left it alone as it a total b * tch to fix. 

If the vent system from the turbo fails it might be able to become pressurised maybe this is the purpose for the relief valve. Details and pictures are hard to find on the turbo vents I have searched a lot and found jack all. 

[Mr. Haney]

On 4/23/2017 at 2:19 PM, lewisweller said:

The small pipe goes to the rigid metal turbo vent pipes located at the rear of the engine. Mine are leaking oily mess but when it tested it I could get anything to pass so I just left it alone as it a total b * tch to fix. 

If the vent system from the turbo fails it might be able to become pressurised maybe this is the purpose for the relief valve. Details and pictures are hard to find on the turbo vents I have searched a lot and found jack all. 

 

 

There's not much to know. The single vent tube coming from the passengers side valve cover pcv connection go's to the tee in the rear. This line is always under pressure except in decel. From the tee each side connects to the turbo scavenge tanks. The turbo scavenge pump sucks/pumps both air and oil and dumps it directly back to the oil pan. Replacing the plastic tee with a metal version should be standard practice for the 955. When you cut the metal crimps off you still have a barb to hold the hose on each metal pipe. If the scavenge tanks didn't have a vent pipe the pump would place the turbo's center cartridge under vacuum, not good. The 955 needs an external AOS, or catch can at minimum because the PCV system is terrible and geared towards low maintainence and emissions.

 

[ekstroemtj]

I will need to change my passenger's side fuel pump. The other one on drivers side should be already replaced according the shop. I would like to try to do it by myself. Does anybody know if I need to open both sides of the tank or is one enough? Thank you

 

 

Second question is touching my suspension. I didn't have any noise so far. Last weekend when I changed my wheels I thought it could be a good idea to get some rubber protection/ Maintenance spray to some of the suspension parts. Very very big mistake looks like.   

Since then I have a terrible annoying squeeking noise while driving. Coming from the front somewhere.  What the hell this spray did what is producing such a noise. Any idea?

 

Edited June 1, 2017 by ekstroemtj

[lewisweller]

7 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

I will need to change my passenger's side fuel pump. The other one on drivers side should be already replaced according the shop. I would like to try to do it by myself. Does anybody know if I need to open both sides of the tank or is one enough? Thank you

 

 

Second question is touching my suspension. I didn't have any noise so far. Last weekend when I changed my wheels I thought it could be a good idea to get some rubber protection/ Maintenance spray to some of the suspension parts. Very very big mistake looks like.   

Since then I have a terrible annoying squeeking noise while driving. Coming from the front somewhere.  What the hell this spray did what is producing such a noise. Any idea?

 

Yes both sides need to be opened for either fuel pump replacement. 

 

The squeak is the anti-roll bar bushes. What did you spray with? 

[ekstroemtj]

Thank you Lewis. On the passenger side is sitting the fuel pressure regulater?! Should i get a new one?

 

 

about the bushings, i used some kind of rubber care like shown below

[lewisweller]

2 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Thank you Lewis. On the passenger side is sitting the fuel pressure regulater?! Should i get a new one?

 

 

about the bushings, i used some kind of rubber care like shown below

This sonax looks more of a rubber conditioner for non functional rubbers, not suitable for anti roll bar or other bushes. A silicon spray grease is better suited to suspension bushes. 

 

If you got a the cash then might as well change the regulator save going back there sometime in the future maybe. Also buy 2 new Rubber gaskets for the left and right side, they are pain to get seated properly and if you fail the car will stink of fuel. 

Nearly empty tank is easiest and someone to help hold pipes and stuff out the way make the job a lot easier. 

[ekstroemtj]

Ok. Thankx a lot for your help!

[ekstroemtj]

Regarding the fuel pump checking i would like to ask if somebody can read the numbers below and maybe point me to something what isnt correct. Thank you

[ekstroemtj]

On 2.6.2017 at 9:28 AM, ekstroemtj said:

Thank you Lewis. On the passenger side is sitting the fuel pressure regulater?! Should i get a new one?

 

 

about the bushings, i used some kind of rubber care like shown below

400 km driving in havy rain solved the squeeking noise. Looks like lots of water washed out any kind of emulsion I sprayed there. Solved.

[ekstroemtj]

Onother Project starting soon. 2 new fuel pumps. Got it for a really very good price. I dont know yet if am brave enough to do it by myself.

 

Edited June 13, 2017 by ekstroemtj
Mistype

[ekstroemtj]

Fuel pump issue. 

Yesterday just for fun i changed the pump relays from my S to the CTTS. 

Surprise: when i am now opening the driver side door:  suuummm suuuuuum. 

 

Looks like it was not the pump failing . Just the relay

[ekstroemtj]

Today i changed the DV Valve on the passenger side. Hoping to find the reason for my overboost code and the whistle noise. But... the DV i replaced was ok. So need to continue to search.

the replacement is easy. Only problem for me was opening the clamps. Didnt have the right tools. 

[ekstroemtj]

Something is wrong with my purge valve. I replaced the part long time ago because i had failure codes. 

After replacement the code disappeared and never came back. On top i change the wiring incl. the connector because it was really briggle. But this part is making noises. Ticking. Sounds like a valve is opening/ closing nonstop.