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Recommended Posts

Posted

Many times already it has been discussed in the forum about the importance to take care about these cam shaft tabs when working on the valve cover.

 

would like to ask what this tabs are doing? Would a problem causing constant    rough running? Misfires? In all rpm range? In some specific rpm range?

if the flap would be broken, how to replace / repair?

 

IMG_5192.PNG

Posted
17 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Many times already it has been discussed in the forum about the importance to take care about these cam shaft tabs when working on the valve cover.

 

would like to ask what this tabs are doing? Would a problem causing constant    rough running? Misfires? In all rpm range? In some specific rpm range?

if the flap would be broken, how to replace / repair?

 

IMG_5192.PNG

As the tabs and solid section passes the camshaft sensor it induces and cuts an electrical field, from this a small voltage is generated which the dme uses to understand the exact position of the camshaft. 

If it's bent away the signal may be weak or not generated, if twisted the timing will be seen as incorrect, if the one tab is bent the other will still give timing info but inaccurately.

 

So I think not all situations will create the same fault symptoms, it will depends on the severity of the damages to the tab(s). 

I think ruling this out if you have a code and symptoms related and have checked many other avenues then it shouldn't be dismissed with out further investigation. (pain in the butt to take valve cover off I know just to look and see). 

With the cover off its a good opportunity to test and clean the soleniod actuator, to determine if that is playing a part in the problem. 

 

Posted

Like always very professional! Thank you.

but as you remember, i showed you the timing diagram some days ago and we agree there is no problem with that?!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 Well the precat o2 sensor on bank 1 is installed, piece of cake to do infact. I was worried by the DIY I read of special tools and bending 22mm spanners. I had a sacrificial 22 mm spanner and blow torch ready but when I got underneath (wheel off and on a jack stand) I could easily put the spanner on it and with a 1/2 turn it was loose enough to hand thread it out. Burnt my arm on the cat because I'm impatient to let it cool down any longer, got Xmas prep to do as well today, great.  

So yeah easy peasy to swap on this side at least. 

 

Take a look at the graph of both bank 1 (new) and bank 2 existing precat wide band lamba sensors. 4 times snap throttle and they look perfect. Before the bank 1 sensor was not reaching peak milli amps at all and lagged behind the bank 2 sensor. Now they are almost a perfect mirror image trace. :clapping:

 

It is likely the sensor was damaged as a direct result of this banks previous blown head gasket (coolant into the combustion chamber) contamination of silicon which makes the sensor "lazy". 

 

Unfortunately whilst I'm faffing around with this graph and pictures I'm hearing a whine from the throttle body I think. Ahhhhhhhh ffs can anything just go right and be f***ing fixed for once pls. :censored:

The drive home was uneventful and short, I don't know what the verdict is driving wise yet. 

Need to do some km's and see how the fuel trims adapts, if the the stutter is reduced or not and if the fuel economy is better. 

 

IMG_20161224_132343.jpg

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IMG_20161224_113239.jpg

IMG_20161224_113227.jpg

IMG_20161224_113417.jpg

IMG_20161224_113429.jpg

IMG_20161224_111341.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

And Happy New Year - although my CTT didn't quite get me what I wanted for Xmas! We took our first real road trip with it, about 4000 km over the holidays. It ran great, and in fact it is running the best it ever has. No hard starting, smooth idle, turbo is strong.

 

But on the last 500 km I stopped for gas and when I started it the engine light came on but the dash info screen showed no warnings. It ran home fine, and I figured it was a gas cap or dirty oil related problem. But when I parked it and opened the hood, looks like I am not so lucky. There is now a chirping sound coming from the top, front part of the engine, sort of near the oil filler cap. Also, when I turn the engine off there is a fairly loud hiss of a vacuum (or pressure) bleeding out from the driver side turbo area (maybe). And oil spray, but that looks like the valve covers.

 

Looks like I have to order my cable with rush delivery, and I am sure the codes will tell me what is up, but it is kinda depressing right now. Does the chirping noise sound like a familiar problem? From what I’ve read it could be many different things; I just hope it is not something with the cam/valves.

Posted

Update after looking at things in the morning - is this the sure sign of an AOS problem? It seems the aspiration sound when I shut it off is coming from here.

 

 

DSC04147s.jpg.

 

 

Posted
32 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

Update after looking at things in the morning - is this the sure sign of an AOS problem? It seems the aspiration sound when I shut it off is coming from here.

 

 

DSC04147s.jpg.

 

 

I would say that it is almost certain the diaphragm is split. 

There is a fudge Fix for this until you get a new one. It involves using a rubber glove cut to a rough circle slightly larger diameter ,1" large than the diaphragm. You then wrap it over the orange diaphragm and snap the black cover into place. 

Posted (edited)

The rubber glove trick did the job - thanks! I was as careful as I could be but one of the tabs broke off when removing the cap...****. It still seems to hold fine, but I guess I should replace the whole thing. It doesn't seem you can buy just the diaphragm any more anyway – does anyone know a source that still sells the diaphragm alone? Otherwise I guess its PN 948-107-236-02-OEM, and I don’t have to worry about the broken tabs. Anyone know a trustworthy place selling these for less than Pelican’s $163? Thanks again Lewis.

 

Edit - actually, looking closer at the part, pictures of that PN don't seem to be the same as my setup. The Pelican tutorial images look correct, and they say 948-107-236-52-OEM is the PN, but neither that or 948-107-236-02-OEM look correct...anyone know what is up with this? Mine is a 2004 CTT...

Edited by Zakowsky
Posted
3 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

The rubber glove trick did the job - thanks! I was as careful as I could be but one of the tabs broke off when removing the cap...****. It still seems to hold fine, but I guess I should replace the whole thing. It doesn't seem you can buy just the diaphragm any more anyway – does anyone know a source that still sells the diaphragm alone? Otherwise I guess its PN 948-107-236-02- OEM, and I don’t have to worry about the broken tabs. Anyone know a trustworthy place selling these for less than Pelican’s $163? Thanks again Lewis.

 

Edit - actually, looking closer at the part, pictures of that PN don't seem to be the same as my setup. The Pelican tutorial images look correct, and they say 948-107-236-52- OEM is the PN, but neither that or 948-107-236-02- OEM look correct...anyone know what is up with this? Mine is a 2004 CTT...

https://vanos-bmw.com/membrane-94810513107-porsche-cayenne-45l-450ps

 

I would think if only one tab is broke it will still fit fine. Worst case a smear of gasket sealer on that edge and snap it shut. 

 

To replace it requires the whole valve cover to be changed which is joke and not exactly a 5 min job either with other gaskets required too. 

Posted

This thing is driving particularly bad today, I just reset the throttle body using the loren/thomas procedure. And totally different car to drive again. 

 

Despite no codes and the potentiometer reading of the throttle body looking OK I am suspicious of the whiney noise and the fact it now dipping throttle coming back to idle when you slow to a stop.

 

I've tried to buy a new one but Bosch here won't get anything until March omg. 

 

Thomas can you see if there is one avaliable near you and I will bank transfer you the euros. Thanks 

Posted

That was the exact one I was looking at getting...its crazy you have to replace the entire cover. The glove has kept it silent and sealed so will just order the membrane.

 

With your dipping throttle coming back to idle, mine does that as well. Now, I don’t believe it, nor do I trust the very expensive tuning shop that maintained my engine previously, but they insist that with this engine that is normal. They said it was related to the power kit – again, that never made sense to me but it is possible that it is normal behavior.

Posted
55 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

That was the exact one I was looking at getting...its crazy you have to replace the entire cover. The glove has kept it silent and sealed so will just order the membrane.

 

With your dipping throttle coming back to idle, mine does that as well. Now, I don’t believe it, nor do I trust the very expensive tuning shop that maintained my engine previously, but they insist that with this engine that is normal. They said it was related to the power kit – again, that never made sense to me but it is possible that it is normal behavior.

That is complete bull***t from the Tuning company.

Mine only started a few weeks back before that it was rock solid holding idle, about the only thing it could do well, lol. 

 

Same like the "German car specialist" who did my double head gaskets that said the car bucking and surging is normal too and they checked everything and could not find anything wrong with it. Haha I laughed in the guys face, afterwards I found a list of split pipes, a broken divertor valve and open purge solenoid valve. I then got full boost which he assured me was 0.6bar factory, but alas he was wrong when +0.8bar is hit after I Fixed the vac pipes. 

Also they gassed the four zone AC with the wrong amount. 750g instead of 1150g. After that I never went back and bought vcds and got on to renntech. 

Don't get me started about the Audi dealer and my extended warranty claims which I have killed them on to the tune of 70,000dhs for a car I paid 120,000dhs for 18 months old at 48,000km. Champagne will pop in the dealership on May 22 2017 when my 5year unlimited km warranty does expire. To date I spent 140dhs on a bonnet strut on the Audi lol. (Never mind the stealthy Tuning upgrades hehe) And they fitted it for me whilst I waited, classic, in my sadistic mind thats pay back for the weeks I went without the car whilst they argued the warranty claims!  

 

Ok rant over ........

Posted

Unless you've already looked, I've found Amazon.de to be a price-competitive and reliable supplier of Bosch parts, if that helps.

Posted
18 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Bosch 212 is the best offer i found. Delivery 3 / 4 days

That's about 825 dhs, Bosch here would order me one for 325dhs if I wanted to wait until mid march. 

I think I'm going to try find one in a scrap yard here in uae. 

I would love to take mine apart and see of it repairable but if I mess it up I don't have any car. Lol. 

 

Thanks Thomas for looking. I think if scrap one isn't found I will be patient and order one for March delivery. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

This is about 80 EUR. Cant believe thats true. The original part from Porsche is something like 635 EUR

Yes I'm also impressed by the price, also the mad sensors were cheap from them and I check the o2 sensors where also cheaper but long delivery time. I think as it's export to uae there is much less tax and that is reflected in the retail cost but it's the sole uae genuine Bosch dealer. 

Maybe I should buy extra and sell back on eBay lol

Posted

Just took my car from the shop. Take it there because i had vibration and was thinking the new cardan shaft from last year could be the reason.  It was only the flex disc. Thanks god. Drove now 25 km home. Feels good. 

I will bite my *** if all my searching in the engine compartment looking for the vibration was not the engine, was the cardan. We will see

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