2001 Porsche 911 (996)

[southpaw1game]

2001 Porsche 911 (996). While driving in low gears (manual trans), a loud grinding and popping sound began off and on for a few minutes. Then engine died. Zero power to the entire car as if it had no battery.

Any ideas what it could be?

 

Edited July 28, 2016 by southpaw1game

[DBJoe996]

Sorry, not enough to go on.  So the engine died.  Was the "popping sound" exhaust or mechanical? Does it crank but not start?  Is the CEL on?  Do you have an OBDII reader and can check for codes?  Type of car, year, recent maintenance or repairs?  What does the voltage read when you turn the car on but don't start it?

Edited July 28, 2016 by DBJoe996

[southpaw1game]

2001 Porsche 911 (996).  Mechanical. Put new battery in, but it's will not start. Idont have obd reader. No recent repairs; everything was great on car until this happened.

Edited July 28, 2016 by southpaw1game

[JFP in PA]

1 hour ago, southpaw1game said:

2001 Porsche 911 (996). While driving in low gears (manual trans), a loud grinding and popping sound began off and on for a few minutes. Then engine died. Zero power to the entire car as if it had no battery.

Any ideas what it could be?

 

 

Start by checking the battery for voltage with a simple multimeter. 

[southpaw1game]

Just Put new battery in, but it's will not start.

[JFP in PA]

15 minutes ago, southpaw1game said:

Just Put new battery in, but it's will not start.

 

Not the question I asked, I asked what is its voltage reading?  No or low voltage equals no start.  You have to begin somewhere, start by eliminating a bad battery by testing it.

[Ahsai]

"a loud grinding and popping sound began off and on for a few minutes. Then engine died." This does not sound too good (no pun intended) and could be an indication of engine problem. 

 

When you said it will not start, did you mean it will not crank or the engine will crank but it will not catch? I second Joe's and John's questions above.

 

 

[southpaw1game]

thank you. So I can go buy a voltage meter tonight, but where on car do I test voltage?

[kbollaert]

My 99 has  a voltmeter in the instrument panel (dashboard).

 

[JFP in PA]

22 minutes ago, southpaw1game said:

thank you. So I can go buy a voltage meter tonight, but where on car do I test voltage?

 

At the battery, but you can also just switch on the key and see what the dash voltmeter says as a first step.

[southpaw1game]

It's at 12, but when I turn the key all the way to start engine, it goes to zero

[JFP in PA]

16 minutes ago, southpaw1game said:

It's at 12, but when I turn the key all the way to start engine, it goes to zero

 

OK, that is a beginning. If you put the car in gear, and release the hand brake, try pushing the car to see if the engine turns (we are looking to see if anything is seized).  You can have a friend help with this so you can watch the engine pulleys to see if it begins to rotate.

[Ahsai]

Best is to put it in the 6th gear (easier on both the transmission and the engine) and push the car FORWARD only. You don't want to spin the engine in reverse direction.

[southpaw1game]

I'll have trouble codes tomorrow after putting on new OBDII reader on.

[southpaw1game]

Yes, me and friend push started it down in 2nd gear and it started, but engine died after 3 minutes

[DBJoe996]

First, 12V then goes to 0V when you try to start it is not right.  12V is not enough to spin the starter, so your battery is not charged.  Should be closer to showing 14V on the dash voltmeter when the ignition key is turned on.  That it goes to 0V is strange, like the battery has no reserve capacity and is just dead.  Maybe your new battery has a bad cell and cannot hold a charge, or a busted cell internally.  Happens.  You are going to have to first figure out what is going on with the battery.  Maybe swap one in from another car, or have the local auto store test it.  You could also try jumping it to see if it will start and stay running.  Have you had any problems with the alternator or voltage regulator?

 

I assume since you are getting an OBDII reader, the CEL is on?  Good to find out what codes it shows.

 

When you push started it, how did the engine run?  Rough?  Normal?  Did the dash voltmeter show more than 12V?  One thing I'm thinking is the battery is bad with low voltage, maybe internally shorted, and the car simply cannot run for very long with the electrical system draw while running (think fuel pump running, coils firing, etc.)

 

The grinding noise I'm not sure about, but these engines make some strange sounds when they are not happy.  The popping noises could be caused by the low voltage, i.e., the coil packs not getting enough voltage to fire, so they fire intermittently until the whole thing just dies.

Edited July 29, 2016 by DBJoe996

[JFP in PA]

3 minutes ago, DBJoe996 said:

First, 12V then goes to 0V when you try to start it is not right.  12V is not enough to spin the starter, so your battery is not charged.  Should be closer to showing 14V on the dash voltmeter when the ignition key is turned on.  That it goes to 0V is strange, like the battery has no reserve capacity and is just dead.  Maybe your new battery has a bad cell and cannot hold a charge, or a busted cell internally.  Happens.  You are going to have to first figure out what is going on with the battery.  Maybe swap one in from another car, or have the local auto store test it.  You could also try jumping it to see if it will start and stay running.  Have you had any problems with the alternator or voltage regulator?

 

 

That is not quite correct.  A battery alone should show between 12-13 V; it would only show 14V with the engine running, assuming the alternator is working correctly.

[DBJoe996]

2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

That is not quite correct.  A battery alone should show between 12-13 V; it would only show 14V with the engine running, assuming the alternator is working correctly.

Well I do agree.  It is approximate just going by the dash voltmeter.  The best way would be to put a multimeter on the battery and determine the true voltage, or do a load test on the battery. But my point was it should be higher than what he said it shows.  And then goes straight to zero when he tries to start it.  Something is causing a huge voltage drop, or the battery has no capacity.

Edited July 29, 2016 by DBJoe996

[JFP in PA]

2 minutes ago, DBJoe996 said:

Well I do agree.  It is approximate just going by the dash voltmeter.  The best way would be to put a multimeter on the battery and determine the true voltage, or do a load test on the battery. But my point was it should be higher than what he said it shows.  And then goes straight to zero when he tries to start it.  Something is causing a huge voltage drop, or the battery has no capacity.

 

Or something is seized........

[Ahsai]

Exactly and based on this description " While driving in low gears (manual trans), a loud grinding and popping sound began off and on for a few minutes. Then engine died. ", it would be wise not to start the engine again as it may create more damage. I think that's why John suggested pushing the car (not bump start it) just to see if the engine is seized. I was going to suggest removing the serpentine belt and hand rotate the crank and all the pulleys and see if any of them is seized. Pushing the car is a lot easier and faster as a first check.

 

Having said all that it seems the engine ran (ran fine?) for 3 minutes after the bump star. That seems to rule out a seized engine. I would remove the serpentine belt and hand spin all the pulleys.

[JFP in PA]

4 minutes ago, Ahsai said:

Exactly and based on this description " While driving in low gears (manual trans), a loud grinding and popping sound began off and on for a few minutes. Then engine died. ", it would be wise not to start the engine again as it may create more damage. I think that's why John suggested pushing the car (not bump start it) just to see if the engine is seized. I was going to suggest removing the serpentine belt and hand rotate the crank and all the pulleys and see if any of them is seized. Pushing the car is a lot easier and faster as a first check.

 

Having said all that it seems the engine ran (ran fine?) for 3 minutes after the bump star. That seems to rule out a seized engine. I would remove the serpentine belt and hand spin all the pulleys.

 

But does not rule out something else being seized, like a AC compressor, or idler.  I would also not count out the engine just yet, we have seen engine's with bad bearings start and idle for a few min. when cold, and then stall as they warmed up.  To be sure it is not an engine issue, you would need to pull the oil filter and look at it.

[Ahsai]

That's great info right there!

[DBJoe996]

Yes, I agree with this as well.  I wonder if the OP has the means to do this.  From our perspective, we know it would be the wisest choice to NOT start the engine and check out what has been said, everything from oil filter inspection to pulling the plugs, checking the pulleys and slowly turning over the engine by hand.  He will need to determine what is going on with the engine first, and that means getting in there to inspect, check and go over things.  If he does not have the capability or knowledge to do that, he needs to get his car to a reputable shop for diagnosis.  In the end, it's a rather expensive gamble to keep trying to start it without knowing exactly what is wrong.

 

And JFP and Ahsai, I know your knowledge and reputation well, and I have much respect for your wisdom in dealing with these cars and engines.  I only hope  the OP listens.

Edited July 29, 2016 by DBJoe996

[JFP in PA]

There is no situation sufficiently bad that you cannot make it worse, particularly when you lack the knowledge, skills and equipment to diagnose the problem correctly.