Vacuum leak CTT

[lewisweller]

I've continued to snag and fix pretty much all the issues on my ctt, im left with a stutter at 2k 3k & 4k rpm. Seems to get better the longer I drive ie after 500km was smoother but then I disconnected the battery and was back to a very lumpy low rpm up to 4k then it flies.

I decided to pull out my dip stick whilist running expecting a dip in rpm and some lumpy idle but nothing happens. The idle is fine and stable at 500rpm, I know a lot of people with vac pvc leaks have bad idle but not me.

So the question is should the pcv system be affected by sip stick out or do I have a leak I don't know about and the dme is compensating this and hence no rpm change?

Side note I read a thread about dme problem from factory for hesitation but I'm thinking this not the same complaint as stuttering acceleration.

FYI new coils, plugs, head Gaskets, battery, divertor valves, air filters, maf's cleaned ££££££$$$$$ you get the picture.

[Ddavidoff]

I have a similar issue, but can't find the leak. I assume vacuum as the brake pedal after sitting for short period would still be soft and now it's hard. Also when at idle if you hit the brake a few times to use vacuum the idle will fluctuate. Going to try and use a fogger to find the leak.


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[lewisweller]

The idle will fluctuate alittle when the brake vacuum pump (the silver colour metal unit located behind the right bank air cleaner box) is activated because it's an electrical load.  I think the test for the servo leak is to switch off ignition and pump pedal it should go hard after 3-5 pumps, then start engine with foot on pedal and feel it drop as the pump increases servo vacuum again. If the pedal drops but won't stop ie it get buried in the floor then their is an issue.

There are some post here about the piping from the vacuum pump being split and warning messages popping up. See below was a good one. 

 

[Ddavidoff]

The idle will fluctuate alittle when the brake vacuum pump (the silver colour metal unit located behind the right bank air cleaner box) is activated because it's an electrical load.  I think the test for the servo leak is to switch off ignition and pump pedal it should go hard after 3-5 pumps, then start engine with foot on pedal and feel it drop as the pump increases servo vacuum again. If the pedal drops but won't stop ie it get buried in the floor then their is an issue.

There are some post here about the piping from the vacuum pump being split and warning messages popping up. See below was a good one. 

 

The one in the link was the one leaking. Added some silicone, tape and wire ties until I can order new hoses next week. Thanks again.



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[lewisweller]

Good find