160k mile service recommendations?

[danish]

I decided to do the 160k service at 155k miles.  I think after 100k miles, most of the items from the list should be done more often (every 20k to 30k), rather than 50-60k.  Off course engine oil, and air filters should be changed more often (10k)

Following is what I just did:

 

1. Air filters replaced (Mann)
2. Oil and oil filter replaced (Redline 04-40, Mann)
3. Cabin filter replaced (Mann Ferocious)
4. Plugs (Bosch OEM)
5. Front and rear diff oil replaced (Redline 75W90, Original Porsche replacement drain plugs)
6. Transfer case oil replaced (Redline D4 ATF, Original Porsche replacement drain plugs)
7. Front brake and rotors replaced (not 160k service, but was needed) (Pagid Brakes and Rotors with new OEM hardware kit, new rotor screws, new sensors
8. Front wheel bearings replaced
9. Cleaned Throttle Body and replaced the gasket (Throttle Body Cleaner and Porsche Gasket)
10. Inspected Serpentine belt (looks good)

 

In a couple of weeks:

 

1. Replace coils (all 8 were cracked when I replaced the plugs)
2. Transmission Oil, filter, pan gasket, filter gasket, drain plug, pan bolts (All original Porsche parts, Toyota Type T-IV oil, would using RL D4 ATF be risky considering high miles and seals not being exposed to full synthetic oil?  Also, the transmission fluid and filter were never replaced, yes I know, a big mistake)
3. Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir replacement (Original Porsche, with Pentosin CHF202, how much oil do I need?)
4. Fuel filter replacement (Siemens VDO OEM)
5. Torque Strut mount (original is completely worn out, replacing bushings from ECS)
6. Hydraulic Engine mounts and transmission mount (Lemforder or OEM?)

Any other recommendations?
 

Thanks

 

 

[Fruitypuddinpops]

I have the 05 V6 version and im at that 160,000 mile mark myself, and needing to do some of this.  DId you already have the coil packs replaced before now and were you getting a check engine light code relating to a vacuum leak in the intake/throttle body area (having that code now and already replaced the gas cap) or did you it just to be sure?

[danish]

The only error code was P0011 which is for the camshaft position sensor in most cases. Replacing both or one of the two sensors usually resolves it.

But the maintenance is more of a "fix it before it breaks", rather than "if it ain't broken, don't fix it".

[clarksongli]

In a couple of weeks:

 

1. Replace coils (all 8 were cracked when I replaced the plugs)
2. Transmission Oil, filter, pan gasket, filter gasket, drain plug, pan bolts (All original Porsche parts, Toyota Type T-IV oil, would using RL D4 ATF be risky considering high miles and seals not being exposed to full synthetic oil?  Also, the transmission fluid and filter were never replaced, yes I know, a big mistake)
3. Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir replacement (Original Porsche, with Pentosin CHF202, how much oil do I need?)
4. Fuel filter replacement (Siemens VDO OEM)
5. Torque Strut mount (original is completely worn out, replacing bushings from ECS)
6. Hydraulic Engine mounts and transmission mount (Lemforder or OEM?)

Any other recommendations?

 

Thanks

 Is this a CS or CTT?  If it's a CTT you got the wrong plugs.  But anywho:

1.  Yes replace all coils if they were cracked (mine went at 130k)

2.  Type IV is what I always use.  It's super cheap, and if you look up my blackstone lab test, it's nearly identical (if not identical) to the Porsche fluid....same bottle and all.  I change mine probably more than most, but it keeps the transmission happy and I tow a lot.  I've done the flush 3 times before 130k.  Filter change only once though.

3.  I sucked out the P/S fluid and put in CHF like you are thinking.....again no real reason, but figured it was a good idea.  I got a liter and that was more than enough for the reservoir.

4.  I changed my fuel filter, but I wouldn't bother until your pump(s) go bad.....Sort of a pain, and in all reality US fuels are generally not contaminated.

5.  Torque strut mount.....did mine as well.....helps with any low RPM vibrations

6.  Didn't do my motor mounts.  again they aren't bad so no real reason to replace them.  it's not the easiest of jobs either.....

 

What I didn't see mentioned......

 

water pump, unless recently done

Coolant pipes and Tees(if a CTT)

Coolant Reservoir.....still haven't done mine but I have the reservoir at home.  they tend to bust at the seam

Brake fluid.....I always fully flush my brakes.....we don't use Type 5 fluid.....so it tends to absorb moisture quickly.....always a good preventative measure

Check your suspension bushings (lower control arms tend to get crunchy)  If you got movement or torn bushing's it might be a good time to get another set.  Mine are definitely worn and I can feel it under hard braking.

Check to see if your valve cover gaskets are leaking?

[danish]

Thank you Clarksongli.

 

It is CS.

 

I will be using Toyota Type IV for the tranny and yes your blackstone lab test is what convinced me.  I am planning to drain and refill every 3 months until the drained oil looks clean enough, but without dropping the pan and then every 10k miles.

How did you drain from the P/S reservoir?  Using siphon or a pump?

For fuel filter, I already bought one,but will probably order pumps and FPR and replace all of them in a single job as you suggested.

Control arm bushings are all worn out.  Definitely need new ones. Thinking about replacing control arm assembly for both sides rather than bushings.
Low RPM vibration is there, will know how much of it goes away after replacing Torque Strut Mount bushings and installing new coil packs.  If these don't fix it, I will try replacing transmission and engine mounts as several people have suggested that these hydraulic mounts tend to compress over time and it is a night and day difference once replaced.

I had coolant pipes replaced with aluminum ones about 4 years ago.
Water pump was never replaced, so definitely going to the list of things to order.

Coolant Reservoir added to the list.

Brake fluid flush added to the list.

I did see very little oil on one of the coil packs, maybe a hair line of oil on one of the coil packs near the top (not near the plug).  Not sure if it is due to the valve cover gasket.  But the cost is low enough to consider adding it to the list.  And considering coil packs need to replaced, adding a bit more work to get to the gasket is a good idea.

Another thing I added to the list is Air Oil separator membrane.