Massive oil leak, what is this part?

[jw_928]

I returned home from a short trip to the store only to see smoke coming from under the hood.  I immediately shut the car off and jump out to see if I'm on fire or not and see a substantial amount of oil everywhere on the passenger side of the car, near the turbo.  I was hoping it was just the O-ring for the intercooler pipes but this was way too much oil.

 

After removing the air filter box and wiping down everything, I couldn't see any obvious leaks so I refilled the oil (7 quarts!), started the engine, and ran around to the other side of the car to see if I could fine the "leak".  It became rather obvious as oil was pouring out. 

 

So now, I found the leak but I don't know what the fix is.  There is a large (30 mm) "plug"? on the engine block, directly above the alternator as you look at the engine through the wheel well.  The "plug" was VERY loose and oil was pouring out.  I tightened the plug and that seems to have fixed the leak.

 

My questions are, what is this "plug", why did it come loose, and what should I do to fix this?

 

Thanks.

[jw_928]

After reading a bunch of workshop manuals, I finally found the "plug" in a diagram.

It looks like it is the timing chain tensioner, 94810518002. 

So now the question is, do I need a new tensioner or just a new washer?

Is there any way to test it?

How can I ensure this doesn't happen again? I'm not sure loctite is a good plan...

 

   

[JFP in PA]

 

After reading a bunch of workshop manuals, I finally found the "plug" in a diagram.

It looks like it is the timing chain tensioner, 94810518002. 

So now the question is, do I need a new tensioner or just a new washer?

Is there any way to test it?

How can I ensure this doesn't happen again? I'm not sure loctite is a good plan...

 

   

 

 

If you have a leaking cam tensioner, they do have crush washers underneath them.  That said, you cannot just remove the tensioner and replace the washer, the process is more complicated in order to prevent the cam timing from moving during the process (item # 6 & 12 ) :

 

 

I would first try torqueing the unit to 30 Ft. Lbs. and see if the leaking stops.  If not, the washer will need to be replaced.

[jw_928]

Well, the leaking stopped when I tightened it, but I'm concerned it might come out again.

 

Thanks for the heads-up on the replacement.  Apparently, I need to be at TDC before replacing the tensioner.  I was going to just unscrew the old one.

[mikeymikey]

On 4/25/2016 at 2:13 PM, jw_928 said:

Well, the leaking stopped when I tightened it, but I'm concerned it might come out again.

 

Thanks for the heads-up on the replacement.  Apparently, I need to be at TDC before replacing the tensioner.  I was going to just unscrew the old one.

Did tightening of the tensioner fixed the problem? What do you need to remove to access it? 

Thx for any tips. I ran into similar issue earlier this week. 

[JFP in PA]

25 minutes ago, mikeymikey said:

Did tightening of the tensioner fixed the problem? What do you need to remove to access it? 

Thx for any tips. I ran into similar issue earlier this week. 

 

These hydraulic tensioners should be torqued to spec (59 ft. lbs.); if they still leak, they need to be removed and have the crush washer replaced, then retorqued.  Removing them requires locking the engine at TDC and locking the cams to prevent them from jumping time.

[mikeymikey]

On 9/6/2019 at 11:13 AM, JFP in PA said:

 

These hydraulic tensioners should be torqued to spec (59 ft. lbs.); if they still leak, they need to be removed and have the crush washer replaced, then retorqued.  Removing them requires locking the engine at TDC and locking the cams to prevent them from jumping time.

Thx. 

Will you please check on the torque spec? alldatadiy shows 60nm (44 ft lbs). 

[JFP in PA]

58 minutes ago, mikeymikey said:

Thx. 

Will you please check on the torque spec? alldatadiy shows 60nm (44 ft lbs). 

 

Porsche’s service manual say 59 ft. Lbs.