CEL - P1325 Camshaft adjustment bank 1

[JFP in PA]

33 minutes ago, Schnell Gelb said:

True shameful confession- I find the Harbor Freight 1/4" drive Torque wrench is just as accurate as an "Aircraft" dial-type one I treasure. I also have a Brownline to compare it with.The only problem is the feeble 'break' when the limit is reached.You have to really concentrate to feel when the limit is reached. When on Sale it is around $15 ! YEMV. I used the HF when checking shading systems installed on the exterior of high rise buildings. The HF bounce just the same as Snap-On if you drop them.....and nobody ever stole it.

 

No one stole for a reason: HF torque wrenches do not hold their accuracy, which can be devastating on inch pound fasteners.............

[Schnell Gelb]

That is why I check it against others. But like most amateurs , I don't get it calibrated. FWIW here is a video test that reveals some flaws.Each to his own.Lots more on You tube. At least some of us use a T wrench -maybe not the best but .......

here is another comparison test that mentions HF

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/article/best-torque-wrench-for-bicycle-grouptest-46517/

 

Edited July 28, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[talkenrain]

That's funny. I just purchased a 1/4" drive torque wrench from harbor freight not 5 minutes ago

[Schnell Gelb]

Don't tell JFP. :-)

Seriously-it is better than nothing. But as Ahsai advised practice with it on junk first. We really do not want to be helping you do helicoils/timserts.

[talkenrain]

Thanks, I'll be very  careful. I have a quality 3/8 and 1/2" drive  torque wrenchs but thought after reading the earlier post and a quick check on YouTube, maybe the smaller Harbor Fright would be a better fit and better suited for this job.  I'm at technologist so I'm used to working with smaller intricate components with a lot of  attention to details. I will be very very careful (says the guy that twisted off 2 exhaust manifold bolts)...

[Ahsai]

"I'm at technologist so I'm used to working with smaller intricate components with a lot of  attention to details. I will be very very careful" <- It shows :)

 

"(says the guy that twisted off 2 exhaust manifold bolts).." <- Don't feel bad at all. Quite normal for old and seized  header bolts... nothing to do with the mecahnic. 

[Ahsai]

44 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

 

No one stole for a reason: HF torque wrenches do not hold their accuracy, which can be devastating on inch pound fasteners.............

I must admit I've never used cheap torque wrenches. I recommended the Tekton because I happened to have purchased one for my nephew and was impressed by its quality for the price.

Edited July 28, 2017 by Ahsai

[Ahsai]

BTW John, could you please help change the title of this thread to bank 2 instead (if you are able to)? Thanks..

[Schnell Gelb]

5 minutes ago, Ahsai said:

I must admit I've never used cheap torque wrenches. I recommended the Tekton because I happened to have purchased one for my nephew and was impressed by its quality for the price.

Tekton get could results from the comparisons on YT . Solid recommendation on that basis.

[Schnell Gelb]

13 minutes ago, talkenrain said:

Thanks, I'll be very  careful. I have a quality 3/8 and 1/2" drive  torque wrenchs but thought after reading the earlier post and a quick check on YouTube, maybe the smaller Harbor Fright would be a better fit and better suited for this job.  I'm at technologist so I'm used to working with smaller intricate components with a lot of  attention to details. I will be very very careful (says the guy that twisted off 2 exhaust manifold bolts)...

I have but one request of you in repayment for these hours of help.

Test your new HF 1/4 T. wrench against your 3/8 one and tell us what you find.

[JFP in PA]

There are a lot of good quality wrenches out there, you don't need to jump for the top of the line Snap-On, just don't go with the cheapest thing you can find.  Inch pounds of torque are not large values in and of them selves, so buying  something dirt cheap but very inaccurate can easily take you where you really don't want to go.  A good used unit would be a better investment, plus you can always sell on a quality tool, even if you purchased it used.

 

Testing an inch pound wrench, which may only go to 12.5 ft. lb. max. against another wrench that can't read below 10 ft. lbs. is also questionable; both are operating at or near their limits (upper and lower) which is not a good place to test accuracy.  Several companies sell very accurate torque wrench test fixtures  for this purpose, or you can often get the manufacture to test it for free if it doesn't need recalibration (Snap-On does this).

[talkenrain]

Today update

All the torque talk had me concerned so I talked to a friend that has a friend that owns a local machine shop. After a phone call I gained assess to his snap-on tools and calibration equipment (including his wrench cal station). I'll keep this story short with all the back and forth done with each wrench tested and just say i spent the greater part of the day confirming the really cheep wrench I purchased was consistently within 3% of the cal station at 120in/lbs (about the same as his snap-on wrench). I choose this as it's the magic number I needed to torque my cam cover bolts. I also tested as several other values at the extreems of the wrench. it was in every case within 5% of the adjusted value. I'm pretty happy with these results and feel confident I wouldn't do any damage with the correct value dialed in. I also tested my 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches. needless to say, they did well in the ranges they where designed for.

 

On the the car.

With limited time, I cleaned up the contact points again and laid a beed of glue in the cover, them mated it to the engine head without problems. I may have uses a little more then needed as I felt rushed to get it all back together within 5 minutes. Hard as i tried, I think I had them mated within the time limit but it took some time to torque so many bolts. I'm sure I was within 10 minutes but because I was taking so much care to get it right i'm concerned i took too long. there was a small amount of glue squished out but not much. I took care to not put too much glue around the cam caps. All in all, I think it went well. I've started the reassembly of everything removed but ran out of time. the new motor mounts raised the engine so much I was concerned it would hit the top of the engine compartment. I think the tail pips will be much much higher. Installed new serpentine belt, will install the spark plug tubes in the morning. I feel like i'm near the home stretch. Look for an update with some positive news once I get oil back inside her. Hopefully without leaks.

 

[Ahsai]

Good progress and glad to hear you took the time to test your new torque wrench.

Edited July 29, 2017 by Ahsai

[talkenrain]

I collected a lot of data on the various torque wrenchs. if you're interested, send me a pm and I'd be happy to share.

 

I'm feeling very confident the torque on all the bolts are correct. My big concern is the glue and if I took to long.otherwise, it all seems to be going back together smoothly. I would have done more but wasn't sure about the spark plug tubes and what if any special grease should be used on the o-rings? Then there is those exhaust bolts still being an issue...

[Ahsai]

I think you are fine. It takes some time for the sealant to set compleletly. You can feel that on the excess that was squeezed out (normal). Can use a blunt screwdriver or plastic razor to scrap that off when it's dried.

[Ahsai]

Just use some fresh engine oil on the o-rings and they should be fine.

[talkenrain]

I'm going to call today two steps forward, one step back...

 

More progress getting it all back together. Just about all the new parts are in (motor mounts, magnetic oil plug, serpentine belt, plugs, plug tubes, cam caps, etc. Oil pump is in, oil pressure sensor is reconnected, new solenoid is connected, big ground wire is reconnected, air conditioner compressor is back in place, aux air pump is back in and connected. airbox is back and MAF is connected. Ignition coils are reinstalled and connected. Heat shield and muffler support is back in place. The only parts remaining are the exhaust manifold, the muffler, the heat shield and the bumper, Oh, I need to get oil inside...

 

 

I borrowed a tool form my friends friends machine shop. He said I could keep it but I'd hoped I wouldn't be needing it for a while after this job is complete. 

 

 

I'd seen this tool before and was excited to have it to use on those two twisted off head bolts of the exhaust manifold.

 

 

The great news is it clamped down nicely and with a little work twisted out the first stud.

 

 

The not so great news, The last stud at the end of cylinder 6 was not as friendly. it's like the bolds are made of mush... it twisted right off smooth with the head...

 

 

This is what I'm left to deal with...

 

drill and easy out or ???

[Schnell Gelb]

The most important challenge is to get a center punch divot dead center. If it is off, the left hand drill/easy out - whatever you subsequently use may damage the aluminum threads.

Usually the first step is to use a guide but there is nothing to center a guide on.

In you cse where it snapped flush, the first challenge if to try to file(careful!) the steel bolt center - flat so you can mark it with the punch.If it is not flat ,it will skip off center.

This is a useful reference:

https://www.stomskiracing.com/products/exhaust-head-stud-repair-kit

Your Machinist guy may have something similar.

You may be able to use the exhaust manifold as a guide if you also use a sleeve?Use cutting fluid

Measure your threaded hole  carefully add for the manifold flange+ gasket+nut + a little  and calculate the length you need .Something similar(???) to this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-Piece-M8-x-1-25mm-x-35mm-A2-70-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Manifold-Stud-Kit-/232327237709?hash=item3617c8504d:g:TiAAAOSwi7RZD-9j&vxp=mtr

Edited July 30, 2017 by Schnell Gelb

[Ahsai]

I would ask your machinist friend to use a 1-inch thick steel/aluminum stock rectangular bar to make you a template with 3 perfectly straight holes so you can bolt the block onto the left two holes in your photo and center the 3rd one on the broken bolt. Then use a left hand drill.

[talkenrain]

I like the idea of using the exhaust manifold as a templet. The machinist is a friend of a friend, I'm afraid I've already over stayed my welcome with him and I think the if I can come up with a sleeve that may work.

 

At this point I'm tempted to take it somewhere I can get it on a lift. Drilling upside down, on my back and inches from the ground does not sound very appealing. If everything checks ok, would it be ok to reassemble the exhaust manifold and muffler then drive it to a place I can get it in the air or am I better off having it towed? 

[Ahsai]

Other than some exhaust leak, it should be ok to drive.

[talkenrain]

Great, thats what I expected but was concerned if the leak was bad it could cause other issues/problems. I'll re-evaluate after i've had some time dealing with a few other life projects (hot water heater issues today, Oh the joys of home ownership)...

 

Thanks !!!

[talkenrain]

Update.

It's all back together. Oiled up and ready to go. I started it and let it run for a little while to allow the oil to flow through and check for leaks. My next step is to connect to the durametric and check the variocam advance. More to come...

 

[Ahsai]

Can't wait for the result of the variocam advance.

[talkenrain]

Quick update

 

durametric shows variocam advance on both banks just as expected.  Pictures later but wanted to announce the great news...